After Market Seal Kits & Carb Rebuild Kits- Any Good?

[Heavy Oil Saw]

Afternoon all, hope your all well.

Looking at after market seal kits, the complete type sets, BG, crank seals etc. Trying to save some money on a build, using reclaimed jug, Hyway piston, AM crank. This a “dirty” saw by the way.

Any input from yourselves? I know AM gear ain’t up to much, but I’ve got parts lying around and thought I’d build another saw.

So apart from it ain’t OEM so won’t last long, I know that, are the crank seals going to seal at least to pass a press/vac test? Or are they dud out the box? Hit and miss (I think this worse than dud out the box)?

Are the AM carb re-build kits any good also? Same type of questions as above.

[Stubby]

2 hours ago, Heavy Oil Saw said:

 

Afternoon all, hope your all well.

Looking at after market seal kits, the complete type sets, BG, crank seals etc. Trying to save some money on a build, using reclaimed jug, Hyway piston, AM crank. This a “dirty” saw by the way.

Any input from yourselves? I know AM gear ain’t up to much, but I’ve got parts lying around and thought I’d build another saw.

So apart from it ain’t OEM so won’t last long, I know that, are the crank seals going to seal at least to pass a press/vac test? Or are they dud out the box? Hit and miss (I think this worse than dud out the box)?

Are the AM carb re-build kits any good also? Same type of questions as above.

 

@spudulike ........?

[spudulike]

Seals and carb kits are OK, have had some carb kits manufactured as a mirror image so totally useless but pretty obvious. These are some parts that are actually OK, many are worthy of the bin when they arrive.

[bmp01]

The expression 'hit and miss' is about as conclusive as I can get with aftermarket stuff.

Pistons are better quantifed, Meteor are good, Hyway ok, Vtec and Golf last resort in my experience. But some peeps have fitted no brand pistons and got away with it - maybe long enough to flog the saw.

Bearings - establish what you need and source known brand stuff,  that's a good saving over OEM while

keeping quality.

Consider what saving are you making in relation to consequencd of part failing. If it's buried in the engine it'll be a full rebuild at best eg piston circlip. Side screw at 10p vs 2 quid then why not.

 

 

[ChrisNewport]

The only after market carb kit I bought was for a HS45 and the gasket was made out what I assume was the cardboard from a Chinese cornflake box. I fitted it, ran the machine and realised I'd left out the gauze filter so took it off and the gasket turned into a black mush. Never have bought a Chinese part for any of my machines since.

[billpierce]

Found the carb kits to be ok. Wouldnt bother with am crank seals as pita to to fit and oem are cheap enough anyways. Basically if its easy to fit, and a massive saving, and not going to wreck the saw id crack on

[Heavy Oil Saw]

Thank you for comments. Worth a punt then. Bearings I’ll stick with OEM, no doubt in them then.
The cylinder is OEM, but plug thread stripped so insert used, and exhaust port matched to gasket and exhaust modded.
Hyway pop-up piston, Baseh AM crank, and badly worn case repaired with JB Weld. Trying to keep the price down obviously, so if it grenades or fails to run ‘cos of my shoddy port ‘work’, I can slap a cheap jug on it and run it.

[bmp01]

"Bearings I’ll stick with OEM, no doubt in them then"

...that's the one place I'd go "aftermarket" if theres a saving, you can often see FAG or INA etc on the OEM part. Buy the same or another top brand part from a bearing stockist...

-get the right running clearance,  press fit brs are often c3 grade. 

-don't buy no brand Chinese bearings for chainsaw, ever.

-check cage material, piston pin needle brg must be metal cage, clutch brg advisable in metal too. 

[Heavy Oil Saw]

"Bearings I’ll stick with OEM, no doubt in them then"
...that's the one place I'd go "aftermarket" if theres a saving, you can often see FAG or INA etc on the OEM part. Buy the same or another top brand part from a bearing stockist...
-get the right running clearance,  press fit brs are often c3 grade. 
-don't buy no brand Chinese bearings for chainsaw, ever.
-check cage material, piston pin needle brg must be metal cage, clutch brg advisable in metal too. 

Bare with me, just finished night shift. The flywheel side is an off the shelf bearing, it’s the clutch side that’s a Stihl “in house” spec bearing, as I’ve not found it online or on chainsaw threads. I may of missed something somewhere, and google will only get you so far.
If what I’ve researched is true, once I’ve bought clutch side bearing from Stihl distributor, may as well get the flywheel side for the P&P, and I know it’s a good bearing.
That’s why I’d go OEM on the bearings if anything, not heard a good thing about Chinese bearings in any capacity, the Holfforma/Farmertec builders 9 out of 10 times bin the kit bearings and go OEM.
I’ll go metal clutch bearing as they’re gonna be cheap out of China.

[bmp01]

"that’s a Stihl “in house” spec bearing"

Hate it when they do that. ...  But fair enough, you've not much option and as you say if you're doing one then might  well be consistent and do the pair.