Chainsaw Milling Questions

[jfc]

Yes, they’ll be two of us on site, so wedging and secondary oiling is possible.

Re Chinese mill,

Someone on here often advises newbies 'buy cheap, buy twice". I cant remember who says it though?

Jan.

[Rough Hewn]

Re Chinese mill,

Someone on here often advises newbies 'buy cheap, buy twice". I cant remember who says it though?

Jan.

?????
I do regularly.
Fortunately chillaskans are a proven device.
And they are brilliant for an introduction to chainsaw milling.
I would recommend them to anyone who'd like to try milling.
[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

[Rough Hewn]

A vertical mini mill might be worth a look, you could slab the trunk in 6 1/2 inch boards (allowing for planing and sanding to 6) and then run the mini mill through them using a smaller saw so easier and lighter, also less hassle than laddering an alaskan at 90° three times

Yes this is correct,
However you only cut one beam at a time.
If you used the vertical mill to square the edges of the 6" slabs
You could then stack together vertically and cut multiple beams at the same time.
[emoji848][emoji106]

[Rough Hewn]

Yes, they’ll be two of us on site, so wedging and secondary oiling is possible.

Don't tell Rob.D but I've never needed an aux oiler[emoji13]
Slats are better than wedges.
Make sure the first wedge doesn't lift the top board and ladder.
Use a 10mm slat instead.
Or your board will be bowed.
Keep the Saw perpendicular as much as possible.
Try not to see Saw.
Re grind the top plate of chain to
0degrees fir best finish.
Get a piece of Velcro to wrap around Saw throttle, you'll have two hands free then.
Watch the back end of the mill when entering the cut.
Keep it level!!!
Watch the front doesn't drop when leaving the log.
Keep it level.
Please post the results.
Best of luck [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

[jfc]

?????
I do regularly.
Fortunately chillaskans are a proven device.
And they are brilliant for an introduction to chainsaw milling.
I would recommend them to anyone who'd like to try milling.
[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

Cheers saul,

I was thinking of someone else though, think his name starts with M... D...!

I actually just bought a mill (before all this covid nightmare), went for a panther 42". Milled up a decent oak and got 1/3 of my money back from that one job. Sure I'll find future uses for it, and get all my money back.

J.

[Rough Hewn]

Cheers saul,

I was thinking of someone else though, think his name starts with M... D...!

I actually just bought a mill (before all this covid nightmare), went for a panther 42". Milled up a decent oak and got 1/3 of my money back from that one job. Sure I'll find future uses for it, and get all my money back.

J.

Wise choice.
Panther mills are the absolutely brilliant. [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

[Rough Hewn]

These are the two types of mills I'd reccomend for anyone looking to get into chainsaw milling,

both under £200.

 

 

Available from Chainsawbars.co.uk

 

 

Timberjig

Available from Logosol.co.uk

 

[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

 

 

[topchippyles]

8 minutes ago, Rough Hewn said:

These are the two types of mills I'd reccomend for anyone looking to get into chainsaw milling,

both under £200.

 

 

Available from Chainsawbars.co.uk

 

 

Timberjig

Available from Logosol.co.uk

 

 

 

Soul why have you not got a logosol F2/M8 type chainsaw mill buddy,Surly a lot easier with the hand winding than pushing your guts out ??

Edited April 15, 2020 by topchippyles

[Rough Hewn]

Soul why have you not got a logosol F2/M8 type chainsaw mill buddy,Surly a lot easier with the hand winding than pushing your guts out ??

[emoji848][emoji16]
What? Like a Logosol F2+?

Got it last year, have a look on the "today's milling" thread.
[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

[topchippyles]

Will do