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E5 fuel

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Whether you trust them or not is a difficult point, only you can decide.

 

The water strips the ethanol and also strips the Octane rating, as ethanol raises Octane.  the fuel above the water/ethanol gel is very poor.

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1 hour ago, neiln said:

Whether you trust them or not is a difficult point, only you can decide.

 

The water strips the ethanol and also strips the Octane rating, as ethanol raises Octane.  the fuel above the water/ethanol gel is very poor.

Do you have a cite for that? I always thought that if you mixed high octane with low octane the resulting octane rating was the lower one??

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I thought I 'd put a link to this short video on the subject of ethanol, it's funny how that in the USA this is an issue that's out there and has been for some time.... whereas here in UK perhaps a few folk on various small forums may be gradually catching on but there's virtually no mainstream general info in circulation and a very low level of general knowledge on the subject.

 

Also when you google or look on ebay for " fuel tester for ethanol "....A simple graduated test tube... there's nothing at all available for sale in this country although in the USA it would seem that such a tool would be every mechanics toolbox ....'they' simply don't want the subject discussed here.

When's the last time you heard a mechanic at your local garage diagnosing an ethanol related problem ?

 

In fact most of the mechanics that I know are either unaware, glaze over when the subject's mentioned or just simply dismiss the idea. 

 

 

 

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but we know better.

 

buy 97-100 octane, mix small amounts and use it while fresh, add startron*, AND DON'T LEAVE FUEL IN YOUR SAW!

 

*other stabilisers are available

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I've no probs leaving the fuel in the tank with ethanol shield, saws outboards and various other stuff,  I'm in no doubt that the fuel may be able to last for a while... but it doesn't stop it attracting H2O if conditions are damp... which is very annoying.

 

I know it's a chainsaw forum......but many folk use petrol powered machines that are far more expensive and important than saws, the truth of the matter is, that the effect on saws or any other engine that get used regularly is minimal as the fuel goes through quick and it's gone, so your constantly adding fresh..... this is completely different to many other applications where you have any kind of petrol powered machine that you use occasionally,  but then again ...just my take on the problem

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Its good to empty the saw as ethanol tends to swell fuel lines and carb gaskets, and because of a non-ethanol problem, the oxidizing aromatics forming gums and varnishes that block the carb jets.  

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On ‎10‎/‎10‎/‎2019 at 19:23, neiln said:

but we know better.

 

buy 97-100 octane, mix small amounts and use it while fresh, add startron*, AND DON'T LEAVE FUEL IN YOUR SAW!

 

*other stabilisers are available

I noticed this morning that the Super unleaded ( 99 octane )was marked as E5  as well as the regular unleaded .

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Yes I saw that a few weeks ago too, I wonder if the law has changed and it now applies to super?  I'm struggling to find much on the web that is recent, the Esso stuff I found might be out of date.

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20 minutes ago, neiln said:

Yes I saw that a few weeks ago too, I wonder if the law has changed and it now applies to super?  I'm struggling to find much on the web that is recent, the Esso stuff I found might be out of date.

Also some people suggest using the high octane fuel but in relatively low comp engines there won't be any difference in performance , in fact they might be down a tad as I believe high octane fuel actually burns slower than the lower octane stuff . The high octane fuel is to prevent knock ( pre ignition ) that can occur in high comp engines .

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42 minutes ago, Stubby said:

Also some people suggest using the high octane fuel but in relatively low comp engines there won't be any difference in performance , in fact they might be down a tad as I believe high octane fuel actually burns slower than the lower octane stuff . The high octane fuel is to prevent knock ( pre ignition ) that can occur in high comp engines .

Yes the higher the octane (resistance to knocking) the lower the calorific value, to the extent that engines that ran very high compression ratios and had to use methanol to prevent knocking would have 70% bigger jets and much increased fuel consumption.

 

The corollary is that diesel, which won't ignite with a spark and detonates if put in a spark ignition engine has 10% more calories than 95ron petrol

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