Rattly husky 61

[bettybobbymeggie]

57 minutes ago, woody paul said:

Why I asked if when chain moving was had a chatty noise on my 61 turned out to be bar plate ( thin plate which goes between bar and crankcase at bar mount) had got bent and was rubbing on chain rivets as chain went round. 

There's a thought! I will take a look at that too, thanks!

[bettybobbymeggie]

Afternoon all,

I checked the bar plate - it was bent but was not the cause of the noise. Thanks for the tip though!

 

Stripped down the saw and could see the bearing cage missing on the clutch side as suggested by spud (thanks!) - this came to pieces as I split the crankcase. The crank looks in good shape other than a bit of scoring on one lobe where it has contacted the case (hence the noise). Now waiting for the new bearings to arrive (will change the oil seals and swap the piston too). I have the gasket set which I have had for at least ten years so hoping it will be in good enough shape with the help of a spot of wellseal!

 

Thanks for the tips so far - any other gotcha's?

 

Cheeers,

Jake.

[spudulike]

If the bearing has that much play on it that the lobes are contacting the cases, I would check for scuffing of the cylinder as the movement of the crank tends to push the piston up the bore at an angle and this can wear the plating off the bore pretty quick!

[adw]

A few things to remember on re build, make sure the drive side bearing is in far enough or when you fit and tighten the oil pump it will bow due to bottoming out on the bearing , this will lock the pump shaft, be careful re fitting the pump as the step in the crank will catch the seal and roll the spring out, make sure the o ring on the pump, and the flywheel side seal carrier are in good condition, grease well when re assembling, the crank seal in the pump should stand proud out the back by the chambered seal edge of the seal, do not push in flush or the pump drive gear ans washer will rub on the seal.

[spudulike]

Good point on the oil pump bow, had that happen and caught it on a MS660, similar effect!

[bettybobbymeggie]

Thanks Spud - I have seen worse but I have realised I don't have the right replacement piston anyway (48mm vs 52mm?) so I may as well buy the set. Gonna have to go Chinese though - budget won't stretch to what will just be a hobby saw.

 

Edit: only just read ADW's post - thanks for all the tips - I will need to re-read all that once the bits arrive!

Edited February 13, 2019 by bettybobbymeggie

[Ratman]

You could buy a meteor kit at approx £115 delivered

[bettybobbymeggie]

I will think about the Meteor kit, but at £20 for the chinesebay I think I have decided already. Sorry, I am a tight@rse.

 

Looking at ADW's advice above, would it make sense to tap the bearings into position on the crank and then assemble the case around that? That way I know the bearings are in the right position. Or am I missing something?

[spudulike]

Typically the bearings go in to the cases and then the crank goes in to those, the exception being clam style engines of which this isn't one.

I haven't split a 61 but ADW is a fair bit older than me so am sure he will be along soon with his old man tales

[Stubby]

Don't forget to check all the other things that may or may not have caused the piston to become scored . It might be because the bearing cage collapsed but it might be there was an air leek making it run lean . It would be a shame to rebuild it only for it to  nip up and have a lean seize ...