Bar lift in cut

[Shiny steve]

Cheers wonky I will have a good check out of the bar 

 

Chain is correct for bar and sprocket

 

It's not the greatest log but I would rather save it from the fire wood pile if I can. It has a good bit of figure to it 

[Rob D]

On 08/02/2019 at 11:42, Shiny steve said:

Cheers wonky I will have a good check out of the bar 

 

Chain is correct for bar and sprocket

 

It's not the greatest log but I would rather save it from the fire wood pile if I can. It has a good bit of figure to it 

 

I had a good example of this the other day on a log with flint in it.

 

On the second cut the flint dulled one side of the chain - I have it a quick sharpen with a freehand grinder and started cutting.

 

The mill entered the cut fine but then the front started lifting... I didn't want to re sharpen as likely more debris in the tree but even with someone standing on the mill it kept rising.

 

Now if you keep doing this the chain will be pushing hard on one side of the bar.... that side of the bar will wear and the chain will roll even further to that side causing an issue with the bar long term.

 

With milling = issues - 95% it will be the chain - the other 5% will be the bar wear [caused by the chain].

 

We have a tough time explaining this to folks that have used a saw for 10 years plus, they have just sharpened and yet same issues occur so it must be the mill - it is always down to that there chain...

[Rob D]

I'd love to come up with a better on the bar solution than the Granberg Grinder - something that could do the depth gauges quickly and easily as well. But the Granberg precision ginder is still the best thing I've come across with the diamond stones you know then that your sharpening is consistent:

 

https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/product/g1012xt-granberg-precision-grinder-expected-8th-june-available-to-backorder/

[Gary Prentice]

8 minutes ago, Rob D said:

 

I had a good example of this the other day on a log with flint in it.

 

On the second cut the flint dulled one side of the chain - I have it a quick sharpen with a freehand grinder and started cutting.

 

The mill entered the cut fine but then the front started lifting... I didn't want to re sharpen as likely more debris in the tree but even with someone standing on the mill it kept rising.

 

Now if you keep doing this the chain will be pushing hard on one side of the bar.... that side of the bar will wear and the chain will roll even further to that side causing an issue with the bar long term.

 

With milling = issues - 95% it will be the chain - the other 5% will be the bar wear [caused by the chain].

 

We have a tough time explaining this to folks that have used a saw for 10 years plus, they have just sharpened and yet same issues occur so it must be the mill - it is always down to that there chain...

It's the same with some new staff in contracting Rob. They damage one side of the chain and just keep cutting. Only stopping when they're cutting in circles and the saw's binding and impossible to use. They'll finally sharpen the chain, but by then they've worn one rail down. Cut again with same result. Put a new chain on with same result because of the lower rail. 

 

But they'll persist with the new chain until the shoulder on that wears down i.e brand new chain fit for the bin. It's not rocket science is it? 

 

[Rough Hewn]

We had an issue this week,
The cut started fine but by the end one side of the slab was 5mm thicker. [emoji51][emoji51][emoji51]
Turns out the 2 grub screws had fallen.
??‍♂️??‍♂️??‍♂️
Into the sawdust...
Somewhere?????‍♂️??‍♂️??‍♂️
[emoji106]

[Khriss]

Basic chain maintenance. Sharp- rakers even-tensioned- correct angles on tooth-bar clean of burrs-oiling correctly- rails in good condition.......... OK.. Rocket science it is then ? k

[Rob D]

25 minutes ago, Khriss said:

Basic chain maintenance. Sharp- rakers even-tensioned- correct angles on tooth-bar clean of burrs-oiling correctly- rails in good condition.......... OK.. Rocket science it is then ? k

Yep and I remember being the same when arbing - if the saw cuts it's sharp and if it doesn't then I best sharpen it. Once I sharpen and it still doesn't cut get a new chain... but it does just come back to the basics. I know I can't get a milling chain on a long bar right by eye - not got the technique or the patience. But I can do it with a guide and I know what it should be like.

 

That saw should cut and feel wonderful

 

What's needed with milling is a better guide as taking a long bar and chain off - cleaning and putting a new chain on - re tension - is a longish job in itself. Because big trees = more foreign bodies and debris... and you can't get away with much with milling it all has to be right to work well.

 

 

[Rough Hewn]

Anyone produce a TCT ripping chain?
[emoji12][emoji106]

[Khriss]

On 02/06/2019 at 10:02, Rough Hewn said:

Anyone produce a TCT ripping chain?

no- cos it would be shit - tct aint nerly sharp enuff fr proper smooth cuts. K

[Rob D]

On 02/06/2019 at 10:02, Rough Hewn said:

Anyone produce a TCT ripping chain?

I got one specially made 8 years ago when I knew no different...

 

Tungsten carbide:

 

• Due to the nature of the material you can never get it sharp like a chrome/steel chain - at it's very sharpest it cuts like a dull chain
• It is hideously expensive
• You hit something and instead of bad blunting the whole tooth gets broken off

It doesn't work for chainsaws - or at least for the way chainsaws cut at the moment...