Bar lift in cut

[Rough Hewn]

Cheers for replys, 
 
Chain sharpens with granberg
 
cut started again from the other end because it come to a stop in the cut almost felt like the mill frame was hitting something, but not.
 
Wedges put in after so I could make a severence cut with a different saw
 
I'm near Sittingbourne Kent

Any metal/nails in the wood?
That'll stop a mill.

[Rough Hewn]

Sometimes if a log isn't vertical grown it has incredibly strong tension and compression.
Try milling a large branch.
It can bend the plank you're cutting as you cut.
Either it pulls the cut closed
(Bed slats are good)
Or it pulls open.
Lifting the rear of the plank.
Your photo doesn't make sense.
Were you milling uphill from left to right?
The cuts from right to left appear ok.

[Rough Hewn]

As for the chain.

It depends on top plate angle, the more above 0 the more lateral chatter.

Different tooth length will only increase chatter and vibrations.

Different depth gauge heights will also increase chatter and vibrations.

However you can mill with different top plates, tooth length and depth gauges.

As long as the mill runs flat.

Teeth sharper on one side will try to curve cut, but don't push it and it will always cut straight but very slowly.

[emoji106]

 

[trigger_andy]

1 hour ago, Gerbutt said:

Yeah when I did my courses years ago I was told that all teeth had to be the same size, so if you hit some metal with a new chain and badly hit five teeth, you had to take all the others down to the same size once sharpened. I don’t know why they teach that cos if you get a new chain and take one side down to half and set the rakers then it’ll still cut straight. Of course all that goes out the window if you don’t keep your rails level and flat ?

If I hit metal and lose a few teeth I dont bother taking them all down to the same size, I just realise they will be skipped for the next while. I assumed you meant one side longer than the other. That would cause issues. 

[Gerbutt]

2 hours ago, trigger_andy said:

If I hit metal and lose a few teeth I dont bother taking them all down to the same size, I just realise they will be skipped for the next while. I assumed you meant one side longer than the other. That would cause issues. 

Thats the thing, it doesn't skip them, they just need the raker setting to them.  If you have one side of, the chain down to a quarter and the other side brand new, it'll still cut straight so long as the rakers are set.  But everyone has different views on this, I'm just going by what I've tried and seen.  

 

Sorry to derail the thread a bit!

[Shiny steve]

As I said cut from left to right just comes to a stop not sure why but chain seems to suddenly pull out of bar to one side and stop cutting (saw over revealed) chain moves very fast no saw dust

[Shiny steve]

No debris in timber , right hand side is bottom of the tree 

Cuts were taken from the other end of log to try and get the job done. They go for 5' then start to rise 

 

Edited February 7, 2019 by Shiny steve
More info

[billpierce]

Get some more pics up. I'd like to see your chain, rails on your bar and quite a few more of the log. Also check there isn't too much rock on the chain on the bar, if its worn it can push the chain over at an angle and feel like the bar is very burred

[Gerbutt]

id say it is your rails, mates saw was doing it when disking up. same chain on new bar and it was fine.

[Rough Hewn]

Do you retension your chain regularly?
Should be a little tighter than cross cutting.
Heats up more, stretches then needs re tensioning.
Cools down etc.
That wedge is way too deep.
See how it is lifting the board.
[emoji106]