Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

Stihl/Sugihara oiling issues


Johnsond
 Share

Recommended Posts

Silly question, or maybe it is  not if it fixes your prob.   Is it a problem with this valve stuck/blocked 1124. 640 9100. The symptoms are, it oils ok at first , then as a vac builds up because the valve is stuck/sticking it oils less and less.

 

you could run it a bit then if it seems to get little/less oil, try and open oil filler cap. This would release the vac, then if it oils ok for a short time then oils less again the valve could well be the prob.

 

cheers

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Log in or register to remove this advert

6 hours ago, Forest2Furniture said:

I've run 48" bars on my 880 without the need for an auxiliary oiler.

With the first sugi bar I had from Rob I greased the nose sprocket as per instructions, this however caused dust to get trapped and seized the sprocket solid, Rob kindly sent me a replacement nose sprocket free of charge.

I don't bother greasing the nose anymore and since then have had no problems.

 

Take the bar off and run the saw head with the oiler turned up full, the oil should p**s out, if it doesn't then there's a problem with the oil pump or it could be something as simple as the oil pick-up bar not being correctly located in the groove on the chain sprocket drum.

 

6 hours ago, Forest2Furniture said:

I've run 48" bars on my 880 without the need for an auxiliary oiler.

With the first sugi bar I had from Rob I greased the nose sprocket as per instructions, this however caused dust to get trapped and seized the sprocket solid, Rob kindly sent me a replacement nose sprocket free of charge.

I don't bother greasing the nose anymore and since then have had no problems.

 

Take the bar off and run the saw head with the oiler turned up full, the oil should p**s out, if it doesn't then there's a problem with the oil pump or it could be something as simple as the oil pick-up bar not being correctly located in the groove on the chain sprocket drum.

Hi 

First thing I did was strip and. Clean saw and bar etc, all oilways were clear,  I ran powerhead only and got good flow from the outlet, another post mentions the possibility of a valve/vacuum issue so maybe that's something to look at. Mind you as I've said saw is only a few hrs of use old. I'll get back to it tomorrow and see how it goes. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi 
First thing I did was strip and. Clean saw and bar etc, all oilways were clear,  I ran powerhead only and got good flow from the outlet, another post mentions the possibility of a valve/vacuum issue so maybe that's something to look at. Mind you as I've said saw is only a few hrs of use old. I'll get back to it tomorrow and see how it goes. 
If it's only had a few hours use, then may I inquire as to whether you that oiled the new chain before putting it on the new bar? If not, then it could be that the dry chain rubbing in the bar when first used without being properly oiled has caused heat damage somewhere causing the bar and chain to oil badly.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, jamallio96 said:
On 27/12/2018 at 17:10, Johnsond said:
Hi 
First thing I did was strip and. Clean saw and bar etc, all oilways were clear,  I ran powerhead only and got good flow from the outlet, another post mentions the possibility of a valve/vacuum issue so maybe that's something to look at. Mind you as I've said saw is only a few hrs of use old. I'll get back to it tomorrow and see how it goes. 

Read more  

If it's only had a few hours use, then may I inquire as to whether you that oiled the new chain before putting it on the new bar? If not, then it could be that the dry chain rubbing in the bar when first used without being properly oiled has caused heat damage somewhere causing the bar and chain to oil badly.

Hi

yeah top groove was well oiled and chain then run by hand to set tension. I was at strathbogie saws  today and have picked up a stihl 36 inch rolomatic bar and crosscut chain to try and see if oiling is any better. Spoke to Pete up there and he was very helpful and offered to lend me a stihl bar for free rather than buy to try if I needed. I measured and compared all the oil ways to the stihl bar and if anything the Sugihara has bigger oilways. Regardless of this I reassembled the whole set up and ran the saw with bar end near a sheet of A4 oiling was poor compared to my 661 on a  36 inch bar which was leaving definitive lines of oil on the paper instantly when revved. I ran the 880 with brake on and on tickover on the bench the oil is pushing out fine from the oilway. Im just gonna stick an auxiliary oiler on for milling but It will be interesting to see how it oils with a stihl bar when the time comes. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi
yeah top groove was well oiled and chain then run by hand to set tension. I was at strathbogie saws  today and have picked up a stihl 36 inch rolomatic bar and crosscut chain to try and see if oiling is any better. Spoke to Pete up there and he was very helpful and offered to lend me a stihl bar for free rather than buy to try if I needed. I measured and compared all the oil ways to the stihl bar and if anything the Sugihara has bigger oilways. Regardless of this I reassembled the whole set up and ran the saw with bar end near a sheet of A4 oiling was poor compared to my 661 on a  36 inch bar which was leaving definitive lines of oil on the paper instantly when revved. I ran the 880 with brake on and on tickover on the bench the oil is pushing out fine from the oilway. Im just gonna stick an auxiliary oiler on for milling but It will be interesting to see how it oils with a stihl bar when the time comes. 

A bigger oil way to me personally doesnt necessarily mean better oiling, it would suggest to me that there is then a bigger void to fill which will take increased effort and increased time to accomplish, so in theory could give more time for the bar and chain to be running with insufficient oil to create friction with heat wear. ?‍♂️ just my thoughts.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Ratman said:


A bigger oil way to me personally doesnt necessarily mean better oiling, it would suggest to me that there is then a bigger void to fill which will take increased effort and increased time to accomplish, so in theory could give more time for the bar and chain to be running with insufficient oil to create friction with heat wear. ?‍♂️ just my thoughts.

Maybe so but we are talking say 2mm on stihl and 3mm approx so not major Just thought I'd mention it. Oil flow from powerhead was good and as the pump has a given delivery volume/capacity/pressure capability (as I understand it)  the difference in size unless huge will have little affect. End of day all it has to do is get it into groove and chain will carry it on its way. If the stihl  rolomatic oils diffently/ better then ill know the current combo is not working well together mind you that is only a 36 inch bar and current one is 42 which should make very little difference id have thought. Aux oiler I think for milling will be route to go. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Johnsond said:

. I ran the 880 with brake on and on tickover on the bench the oil is pushing out fine from the oilway. 

 

This don’t read right,  it should not oil with the break on.

 

the true sure way to find out if you have an oiling issue is to turn the pump up to max flow, I’m not saying you haven’t done it or turned the oil pump adjustment screw the wrong way.

It don’t matter what length bar you have on it, if it’s set to max it will oil a smaller bar more.

Fill the oil tank up, then fill the fuel tank up with fuel. And go cut wood, till it runs out of fuel. How much oil is left in the oil tank ? That will tell you.

My 660 used less than 1/2 a tank of oil when it had an oil issue.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Wonky said:

 

This don’t read right,  it should not oil with the break on.

 

the true sure way to find out if you have an oiling issue is to turn the pump up to max flow, I’m not saying you haven’t done it or turned the oil pump adjustment screw the wrong way.

It don’t matter what length bar you have on it, if it’s set to max it will oil a smaller bar more.

Fill the oil tank up, then fill the fuel tank up with fuel. And go cut wood, till it runs out of fuel. How much oil is left in the oil tank ? That will tell you.

My 660 used less than 1/2 a tank of oil when it had an oil issue.

Hi 

Yeah pump was screwed right up the correct way. 

Saw was bench tested with bar in and no chain. I guess yes started with brake on as per norm, and brake off and revved to check flow. In an earlier post you mentioned the case valve I checked and cleaned that and slightly altered the profile of the oil holes on the bar to mimic the profile and feed angle of the stihl bar, I'm not sure whichever or whatever was the issue but I've been out today and milled for 3-4 hrs and there was no sign of any heat on bar, saw felt much better when cutting so hopefully whatever it was is sorted. As for oil consumption I tend to top off as I fuel but will probs go the other way and try to keep an eye on it in case flow drops off again. 

Thanks for the input 

 

IMG_9886.JPG

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

I guess it’s happy days for you from now on.... I’m happy that what ever has fixed it for you.

just remember thou, while filling fuel tank,,,, how much has been used, and how much oil has been used and to what the oil pump turned up to.

You will then be tuned into your saws fuel &oil usage, and will pick up on any lack of oiling, that is how it is for me ?

cheers.. 

 

edit... nice wood your milling?

Edited by Wonky
Wood & milling
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


  •  

  • Featured Adverts

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.