Husky 560 XP broken brake handle nipple stud

[Gnarlyoak]

Managed to snap off the nipple stud to which the right hand side of the chain brake handle screws into. Effectively this now mean I can't secure the handle to the body of the saw. So far so bad, but the loss of this screw point means that I can't operate the chain brake on the saw, as the handle flaps about and I'm unable to generate sufficient cohesive force to lock or unlock the chain brake.

I have tried to fix by attempting to mould a new stud with a metal epoxy putty which I intend to tap to create a new screw hole. But doesn't matter if I leave it to cure for the recommended 1 hr or 12, the metal putty will not bond to the  body of the saw and it just breaks away. My guess is because the saws body shell is some kind of alloy!?!

Anyone any ideas or recommendation on how to fix this issue or am I looking at having to replace the entire casing of the saw body????

Attached pics show broken stud, and what it should look like (pic of stud on other side of saw)

 

[Stubby]

You don't mess about do you ? ?

[Dan Maynard]

I think your best bet will be to go up a thread size, tap it out and then turn up an insert from a stainless cap head. Loctite that in with the permanent retainer grade.

Assuming you can get use of a lathe of course....

[Arctostaphylos uva-ursi]

Difficult fix I would say.  If it were mine I would probably flatten it off and drill and tap the remaining hole oversized so I could fit it with a custom made steel bushing.  If you get my drift.

 

[Arctostaphylos uva-ursi]

2 minutes ago, Dan Maynard said:

I think your best bet will be to go up a thread size, tap it out and then turn up an insert from a stainless cap head. Loctite that in with the permanent retainer grade.

Assuming you can get use of a lathe of course....

Beat me to it!

 

[Ratman]

I’m assuming its a type of magnesium alloy but not 100% sure. First off i’d try whats been suggested above and tap out to next size. If that goes wrong for you then there will be some engineering company, no doubt not too far away from you that could match the material and probably pool weld it back to solid for you, then you could re-tap to original spec. Prob at a cost of £10 ish maybe.

[Stubby]

Helicoil or similar ?

[spudulike]

13 minutes ago, Ratman said:

I’m assuming its a type of magnesium alloy but not 100% sure. First off i’d try whats been suggested above and tap out to next size. If that goes wrong for you then there will be some engineering company, no doubt not too far away from you that could match the material and probably pool weld it back to solid for you, then you could re-tap to original spec. Prob at a cost of £10 ish maybe.

On the latest saws, one half was pure magnesium and one half (I think but not100%) was Magnesium alloy. You have to be careful with magnesium as it can go up in a big way. I remember the early days of magnesium motorbike mag wheels, basically they were catching fire in accidents where the bike burnt!

[spudulike]

I think either tapping the hole oversize or using an insert rather than a helicoil if the hole is badly worn could possibly do it. The issues look to be the fact the hole has gone and the raised turret looks to have gone so it will need a bush of some sort. Also the screw that holds the handle in place has some sort of screw thread rather than a typical screw thread......good luck!

If that lug goes...it is one expensive repair and a short bottom end may be the solution.

[Ratman]

On the latest saws, one half was pure magnesium and one half (I think but not100%) was Magnesium alloy. You have to be careful with magnesium as it can go up in a big way. I remember the early days of magnesium motorbike mag wheels, basically they were catching fire in accidents where the bike burnt!

I remember playing around with bikes a good few years ago and those magnesium wheels were “barstewards” for just obliterating if they took an impact. Not like later alloy wheels that could be straightened. And they were chuffing expensive too! [emoji15]