Stihl hs81r blades

[Con]

Hi

Does anyone know if you can sharpen blades on a stihl hs81r without removing them from the machiine and taking them apart? Thanks

[htb]

Yes, but easier if you take them apart

[Husqvarna King]

8 hours ago, Con said:

Hi

Does anyone know if you can sharpen blades on a stihl hs81r without removing them from the machiine and taking them apart? Thanks

The only good point of these hedge cutters compared to the hs80 is that it's a piece of piss to take the blades apart without needle bearings flying everywhere. It doesn't have them. Just take the blades off. I normally just lightly debut them with a Dremel and then lower the spacers slightly, you need to take the blades off to make a proper job ?

[Con]

3 hours ago, Husqvarna King said:

The only good point of these hedge cutters compared to the hs80 is that it's a piece of piss to take the blades apart without needle bearings flying everywhere. It doesn't have them. Just take the blades off. I normally just lightly debut them with a Dremel and then lower the spacers slightly, you need to take the blades off to make a proper job ?

Thanks. They're cutting ok. Just thought there might be some way of giving them a tickle without going the hole hog. Know what you mean about hs80. Had experience. If these aren't as bad I might have a go at taking them apart.  I'm blaming you when it goes fits up. ??

[GardenKit]

To be quite honest, there is absolutely no need to remove the blades. Simply remove the top comb (guard) the position the blades so that the top and bottom tooth overlap i.e one half covering the other. This gives plenty of room to sharpen. Do all the exposed teeth on all 4 sides, then reverse the overlap and repeat. 

I do hundreds each year like this with no problem. It would not be cost effective to remove the blades.

[Con]

1 hour ago, GardenKit said:

To be quite honest, there is absolutely no need to remove the blades. Simply remove the top comb (guard) the position the blades so that the top and bottom tooth overlap i.e one half covering the other. This gives plenty of room to sharpen. Do all the exposed teeth on all 4 sides, then reverse the overlap and repeat. 

I do hundreds each year like this with no problem. It would not be cost effective to remove the blades.

Thanks. That is what I was thinking. Someone has quoted me £70/80.

Said it's a big job, lots of labour. They might make a better job of it, but the blades aren't bad. I think if I offset them enough to get a flat file in on the right angle that should do. Do you use a flat file similar to one you get with a chainsaw filing kit? (For the depth guage)

[Husqvarna King]

4 hours ago, GardenKit said:

To be quite honest, there is absolutely no need to remove the blades. Simply remove the top comb (guard) the position the blades so that the top and bottom tooth overlap i.e one half covering the other. This gives plenty of room to sharpen. Do all the exposed teeth on all 4 sides, then reverse the overlap and repeat. 

I do hundreds each year like this with no problem. It would not be cost effective to remove the blades.

It takes two minutes to take the blades off. You can clean out the hardened grease at same time and adjust spacers. I don't see how not removing them is better?

[adw]

Sharpened many  hedge trimmer blades on and off the machine, probably easier with them off but agree the time to remove them may out way what you can honestly charge to do the job. Husqvarna King eh?

[GardenKit]

Anyone who can take the blades off and clean out the hardened grease in 2 minutes can come and work for me!

However, anyone who sharpens with a Dremel can not.

[Husqvarna King]

1 minute ago, GardenKit said:

Anyone who can take the blades off and clean out the hardened grease in 2 minutes can come and work for me!

However, anyone who sharpens with a Dremel can not.

I only de bur. If I sent my blade to be sharpened professionally I would expect spacers to be adjusted or changed for thinner ones. I wasn't having a pop just thought it's easier, in a vice etc