Can you safely rig trees with kretz?

[jfc]

I visited a site to quote for some work, I noticed a big mature beech with a large patch of bark missing. On closer inspection I noticed what I am pretty sure is kretz. See photo.

 

There's no room to fell it, so would need dismantled and maybe not possible to freefall it all. I am very wary of rigging it, what would you guys do? Is this a crane job?

 

Fyi - This isn't the tree I was asked to quote on, it is in the grounds of a public building.

 

I look forward to hearing the opinions!

 

Cheers,

 

Jan

[Steve Bullman]

Anyone would be stupid to tell you YES to your question.

 

In my time I have rigged plenty of Beech trees with Kretz however but have always taken care to not rig anything too large or cause any shockloading.

 

A mewp or crane would almost certainly be the safest option

[jfc]

Thanks steve, the tree is big 25m + and the stuff that needs lowered is right at the top so would shock load the tree. I will discuss it with the client. Jan.

[Mack]

9 minutes ago, jfc said:

the stuff that needs lowered is right at the top so would shock load the tree. I will discuss it with the client. Jan.

 

[Mack]

With the right rigging gear and a GOOD groundsman who knows how to run ropes theres no reason there should be any shock loading.

[jfc]

With the right rigging gear and a GOOD groundsman who knows how to run ropes theres no reason there should be any shock loading.

My groundie is pretty new and not got enough experience for me to be comfortable with that.

Can I ask what you would consider the right rigging kit? Safebloc?

Cheers jan.

[Mack]

a decent ISC pulley block or the like at the top.  And a bollard such as the Stein 3001 or similar at the bottom.

Sub an experience groundsman in for the day, problem solved

[Gary Prentice]

From the safety of my office chair, that beech seems to illustrate a certain amount of adaptation - from the original damage. I know it's easy sat looking at the photo, but are you over-estimating the risk here?

 

No-one is going to pay for the use of a resistograph or picus to establish the extent of the decay and dysfunction, but an ordinary cordless drill and long bit can provide an awful lot of information about the integrity of the tree (and give the climber/groundsman some confidence). I've even bored some trees with a chainsaw prior to climbing, just to dispel doubts.

 

As Steve said though, no-one can say yay or nay based on a photo, ultimately it's down to the climber him/herself on the day. I'd try to get a better picture as to the extent of the decay, before making decisions that are going to cost more money. Alternatively, what about getting an experienced subbie climber to climb the tree, so that you can spend the time on the deck training your groundsman in the art and science of rigging, so he's proficient for the next one.

[Ian Clarke]

Mewp and take it piece by piece I would say. From what you said that the stuff at the top needs rigging could you free fall as much as possible* with or without mewp. To open up more space for the top sections to come down in to.

 

Ultimately go with what you are happy with. It's your job it's your call. 

 

Would be interesting to see how much for there is once it's down safely. 

[Steve Bullman]

vertical speedline an option?