Saw not idling

[chuck norris]

After rebuilding my saw (new carb/top end), it has started to have issues idling. The issue is that it will only start on full throttle, and will stop when throttle is released. I have fiddled with the L screw to no avail, and the fuel pipe, filters and carb where all replaced in the rebuild, so it will not be them. I am kind of stumped now, so any help would be much appreciated

[gary112]

Not that it really matters Chuck but what saw is it?

[billpierce]

Done a vac test? What sort of top end did it have?

[chuck norris]

Not that it really matters Chuck but what saw is it?

Stihl 024

[chuck norris]

Done a vac test? What sort of top end did it have?

No I have not done a vac test, and I am not totally sure what you mean about what sort of top end

[bmp01]

No fuel through the low speed circuit in the carb?  Has the 'new' carb been proven work properly? 

 

Do you manage to the saw start with the choke enabled? Will it then run briefly at low speed or not at all ?

 

 

bmp01

[peatff]

Is the impulse line connected and intact ?

[spudulike]

You would usually set the new carb to one turn out on the H & L screws, set the idle screw so you can see a bit of daylight around the throttle valve plate and then fire it up and just make the slight adjustments needed to the H,L and idle screw. If the carb is the correct part then it should really be a simple job and if the top end is either OEM or a quality aftermarket part, then all should be good.

If you have used the cheapest top end then expect around 140psi and it to be a bitch to start hot. If you have used an aftermarket carb then expect anything between the set up being as OEM new to being like pissing in a force 10!

You spends your money and takes the chance.

[Stretchsaws]

Any saw rebuild that involves breaking the integrity of the cylinder/crankcase needs a vac/pressure test, in my humble opinion. 

However after one rebuild I remember chasing what I thought was an air leak, but turned out to be an incorrectly aligned spring on the carb causing a high idle.

Just check, check more, and check again. Sounds like its lacking for fuel.

Edited November 4, 2017 by Stretchsaws

[chuck norris]

16 hours ago, peatff said:

Is the impulse line connected and intact ?

I dunno, it was not replaced in the rebuild. I will take it out and check, for damage.

 

15 hours ago, spudulike said:

You would usually set the new carb to one turn out on the H & L screws, set the idle screw so you can see a bit of daylight around the throttle valve plate and then fire it up and just make the slight adjustments needed to the H,L and idle screw. If the carb is the correct part then it should really be a simple job and if the top end is either OEM or a quality aftermarket part, then all should be good.

If you have used the cheapest top end then expect around 140psi and it to be a bitch to start hot. If you have used an aftermarket carb then expect anything between the set up being as OEM new to being like pissing in a force 10!

You spends your money and takes the chance.

Pot and piston are oem, but the carb is not. Do you recommend replacing the carb?

 

13 hours ago, Stretchsaws said:

Any saw rebuild that involves breaking the integrity of the cylinder/crankcase needs a vac/pressure test, in my humble opinion. 

However after one rebuild I remember chasing what I thought was an air leak, but turned out to be an incorrectly aligned spring on the carb causing a high idle.

Just check, check more, and check again. Sounds like its lacking for fuel.

Is there a way I can check, for an air leak without doing a vacuum test? I just really don't really fancy, buying something I will only use once