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Ripping chain vs cross cutting chain


Hunter
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I have started my first milling experience, previously I have just cut few very short slabs just to get the feel and to see how it works.

I have used my Makita saw DCS 5121 50 cc saw to cut few slabs of Larch tree about 13-17 inches in Diameter 6 feet long

Three slabs were cut with brand new Oregon ripping chain and other three slaps were cut with Oregon cross cutting chain.

I have expected ripping chain to perform better in terms of sped and smooth finish, I have not noticed any different between both chains, I have not pushed the saw hard during cutting and try to mage the saw do its job.

my son did video me and and by reviewing the video I can confirm that cross cutting chain was about 24 second faster than ripping chain.

I have read that ripping chain should perform better, for my saw the two chain cost exactly the same so cost is not an issue but guess for larger saw ripping chain are more expensive.

Just wonder what other members think, is it possible that ripping chain will perform better in hard wood like oak and cherry which are likely to be my next milling project. Or is ripping chain is a myth?

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Hey Hunter,

are you sharpening the chains correctly? 0-10 degrees

check your depth gauges are all the same.

a ripping chain should leave a crosscut chain for dead.

we measured 4-5 times faster.

a 50cc saw is going to die if you use it for milling.

keep the 50cc for felling, get a big old saw for milling.

xcut chain leaves zig zag on the boards, rip chain at 0 degrees comes out nearly planed.

good luck

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Don't trust new chains.

from experience, the depth gauges can vary. 

Hand filing is a nightmare for milling. Have you got a decent chain grinder yet?

match your depth gauges to the type, size and dryness of the wood.

0.6mm dry oak

1mm green/ fresh/soft

(with a big saw).

listen to the engine sound in the log. Keep the revs high, don't force the saw.

hand file lightly every few cuts.

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On with Rough Hewn here, new chains aren't sharp and there can be a rather big difference in debt gauge and toth length that's why I sharpen or more shape a new chain before cutting. 

Ripping chain should give more speed and cleaner cut of course provided that they are filed correct and kept sharp.  Being on a 50cc saw that may also be why you don't see much speed difference, the saw simply can't keep the chain speed up.

I use a MS 661 for slabbing and a MS 362 for the vertical cuts and I can feel big difference in cutting speed when getting close to 15" and above with the same type of chain on both saws.

 

Jesper

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 03/08/2017 at 12:44, Hunter said:

I have started my first milling experience, previously I have just cut few very short slabs just to get the feel and to see how it works.

I have used my Makita saw DCS 5121 50 cc saw to cut few slabs of Larch tree about 13-17 inches in Diameter 6 feet long

Three slabs were cut with brand new Oregon ripping chain and other three slaps were cut with Oregon cross cutting chain.

I have expected ripping chain to perform better in terms of sped and smooth finish, I have not noticed any different between both chains, I have not pushed the saw hard during cutting and try to mage the saw do its job.

my son did video me and and by reviewing the video I can confirm that cross cutting chain was about 24 second faster than ripping chain.

I have read that ripping chain should perform better, for my saw the two chain cost exactly the same so cost is not an issue but guess for larger saw ripping chain are more expensive.

Just wonder what other members think, is it possible that ripping chain will perform better in hard wood like oak and cherry which are likely to be my next milling project. Or is ripping chain is a myth?

What chain size was on that saw? And can you confirm the part numbers for the Oregon chains you used please.

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2 hours ago, Rob D said:

What chain size was on that saw? And can you confirm the part numbers for the Oregon chains you used please.

Here you go. They are 18 inch chains used with original Makita Bar.

information below copied from my online invoice.

OREGON Ripping 73RD 3/8" x .058" (1.5mm) -  64 Drive Links

73DPX064E - Oregon 73DPX Chainsaw Chain - 64 Drive Links × 1

 

 

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9 hours ago, Hunter said:

Here you go. They are 18 inch chains used with original Makita Bar.

information below copied from my online invoice.

OREGON Ripping 73RD 3/8" x .058" (1.5mm) -  64 Drive Links

73DPX064E - Oregon 73DPX Chainsaw Chain - 64 Drive Links × 1

 

 

Thanks - it's a tricky one but a rule of thumb - smaller saws seem to gain less benefits from using ripping chain than larger set ups.

 

But even then depends on the wood you mill/how you sharpen/how wide the plank your cutting is/what saw you have etc. etc.

 

Huge amount of variables going on - buld up an amorory of experience is the best way to answer this question - there are so many variables everyone out there will have different opinions and experiences...

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  • 2 months later...

Rob D.. Dont you get bored of answering this same question.?? (Copy & Paste it be easier now) Swear I asked it not long ago.. yep.. I did too [emoji1]

 

Hijackin from a Newbie Miller experience now: Simple answer to the title..

Ripping Chains are the Nutz over X-Cut.!!! Now I have 5x Sets of Rippers & Itching to get my saw for milling running tickerdy boo..

I havent used mine yet but have had a go on someone elses more experienced at it than I & Vid Recorded someone else who,, (While I worked like a mule).. Quartered the oak log for Transport, & Reasons for that was he was only goin to plank them,, and obviously,, for ease of moving them..

The X-Cuts I bought (5x) I sent (3x) of them back & only use the X-Cut chains for knockin the Hinge off.. Literally only use..

After seeing the finish Rippers left & how much easier it looks on the Elbows & Neck. Its clear as crystal why there is No Competition..

 

GOOD QUESTION about the smaller saws though.. That was my next question for Rob at a later date..

So no need to ask it now.. Cheers Both of you [emoji106]

 

My new on subject question(s) ..

 

Was the Nose Sprockets reason for failing,,

Due to the lack of Oil.?, & resulting in sprocket being burnt out

 

The wrong Bar Match with Chain.?,

 

Operator Aggression ie: Trying to get it through the kirf too quick (Too many pressures acting on it)

 

Or a simply a bit of all the factors above combined.?

 

Or something less likely I haven't mentioned.??

 

& How much experience Milling have you had please Hunter, absolutely 0,, or a little prior to doing it yourself.??

Gettin as much info about it as possible so my set up lasts as long as possible..

 

Smaller saws for Milling Longer Logs, going with the Grain, sounds waaaaay too much work load and will pop,, thats kinder obvious to me.. But would it be ok to do Shorter, Softer Material than Larch.. Liike what I have in the garden.? (4ft L x 28" W Scotts Pine)

Is my personal logs that I want to use for cladding my hot tub,, Will have a Depth of 1" once Milled,, Ssoo,,

My logical thinking.. It would have a tad less pressure acting on the Set up of a smaller saw & as long as I take my time,, Would be ok to do it this way/probably end up popping the saw anyway.??

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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