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560XP hard to pull


AllyH
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To be fair your built like a brick shithouse,joes built like 12 year old filipino girl on a diet!

No offence...

Hahahaha brilliant!

 

We get it. Big Tree bloke have towering hulk of muscle who causes panties within a 100m radius to instantly saturate. He doesn't need the decomp.

 

Adversely, I'm a skinny bitch weighing in at a bit less than a wet fart. I'll take the decomp thanks

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Arbtalk mobile app

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Going back to the problem rather than dancing round the handbags:001_rolleyes:

 

It is a 60cc saw, the only way it will be damn difficult to turn over is a major mechanical fault or a hydo lock caused by a crankcase full of fuel/liquid.

 

My money is on the washing has locked up the sprocket mechanism by corroding the needle bearing and binding it to the bearing.

 

The Normal way of resolving these issues is to remove the sparkplug and see if this helps, noting where the engine locks also helps. Locking on TDC means either carbon or foreign body in the combustion chamber or possibly the flywheel hitting the coil. I tend to remove the clutch and flywheel so you just have the crankshaft, bearings, piston and bore that can be the issue and to discount the external components.

 

If it is a hydro lock, taking the plug out and turning the saw upside down should drain the puddled fuel from the saw.

 

We really need further info but the ingress of water in to the clutch bearing is still my favoured diagnosis.

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Going back to the problem rather than dancing round the handbags:001_rolleyes:

 

 

 

It is a 60cc saw, the only way it will be damn difficult to turn over is a major mechanical fault or a hydo lock caused by a crankcase full of fuel/liquid.

 

 

 

My money is on the washing has locked up the sprocket mechanism by corroding the needle bearing and binding it to the bearing.

 

 

 

The Normal way of resolving these issues is to remove the sparkplug and see if this helps, noting where the engine locks also helps. Locking on TDC means either carbon or foreign body in the combustion chamber or possibly the flywheel hitting the coil. I tend to remove the clutch and flywheel so you just have the crankshaft, bearings, piston and bore that can be the issue and to discount the external components.

 

 

 

If it is a hydro lock, taking the plug out and turning the saw upside down should drain the puddled fuel from the saw.

 

 

 

We really need further info but the ingress of water in to the clutch bearing is still my favoured diagnosis.

 

 

I'll Check the plug later. Could it be that it is just worn in now perhaps?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk

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Presumably you've not a great amount of experience with chainsaws?

 

A test to do, before dismantling anything that could give some indication of whether there is an issue or you're just pulling it too gently:

Lift the saw by the starter cord handle, does the saw drop?

In "steps" or smoothly?

How quickly before it's run out of cord?

 

Does it make a difference if the chainbrake is on?

Edited by Daniël Bos
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