Lancruiser Temperature Gauge Rising

[TimberCutterDartmoor]

I was meaning more from the engines point of view, releasing the pressure reduces the boiling temp of water, producing steam and removing all cooling from the engine, does this not risk distorting the head?

 

Ah sorry yes, fair point.

 

Introducing a pressure gauge to the header would be so useful.

 

Some tank caps have a spring loaded pressure release, these can fail.

[Matthew Storrs]

I was meaning more from the engines point of view, releasing the pressure reduces the boiling temp of water, producing steam and removing all cooling from the engine, does this not risk distorting the head?

 

This would be done when engine has been turned off surely? In which case I don't see it being a problem.

 

Iv had a problem very similar to this with my landrover- none of the obvious things made any difference, I pretty much stripped the entire cooling system and replaced water pump, p gasket- flushed rad etc, new header tank and cap, list goes on. Ruddy thing still would creep up after travelling for half an hour, bizarrely it ended up being the Chassis earth strap not making good contact/corroded. Cleaned it up and solved the problem!

 

Not sure if it's the same on a land cruise but just a thought

[Gez28]

I've had this problem on 2 colorados a 98+99.

They both turned out to be blocked rads in the centre,

Flow was fine at lower speeds but couldn't hack it working harder!

[waterbuoy]

Ditto with an old 300 Tdi Discovery - might be worth backflushing your radiator to clear out as much crud as possible and see if things improve.

[skyhuck]

This would be done when engine has been turned off surely? In which case I don't see it being a problem.

 

Thing is I would not turn off an over heated engine, better to up the revs without load until it cools.

 

But even if the engine is off, the water is a very good conductor of heat, taking the heat from the engine, letting it leave as steam leaves only air.

[openspaceman]

Thing is I would not turn off an over heated engine, better to up the revs without load until it cools.

 

I agree the last thing you want is localised hot spots in the head as steam bubbles form, best to keep coolant running past it till it's given up its heat after hard work. One of my counties has a habit of doing this after a road run so I left it on fast tickover for a few minutes.

 

But even if the engine is off, the water is a very good conductor of heat, taking the heat from the engine, letting it leave as steam leaves only air.

 

Actually water is a poor conductor but has high thermal capacity, when it boils it takes up more heat but the steam bubble which is left has a much lower heat capacity so the adjacent surface cannot lose heat to it.

[Lillywhite Timber]

Seeing as everyone was so helpful in putting up suggestions i said id better fill people in on the issue . Well it turned out to be simple in the end , the rad .

I flushed it thoroughly a couple of times with no improvement .It looked perfect externally but when you touched it the fins seemed to be really brittle and would disintegrate with the slightest touch .

The mechanic i use who is usually top rate seemed to be sure it was more serious hence i put off just getting one and trying it .

I spoke to another Mechanic and he ran me through it over the phone getting me to check the heat across the top , middle and bottom to the touch and based on what he said i said id give the new one a go .

So far , so good thankfully , its really weird as the old rad doesnt seem to be any heavier

indicating theres a pile of stuff in side it seems to just have "rotted" and lost thermal conductivity .