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Skip chain stupidity??


TheHungrySquirrel
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Ran a 20" on my 1 for a few years now since new and the new gray husky bars seem quite good after I destroyed my sugi.... Along with the saw it was attached to 😭

Don't think I'd want Togo much bigger as the balance will be miles out, better to swap to a bigger saw imo

 

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3 up from bottom is a 20" http://www.sugiharabarsuk.co.uk/product-category/group-3-husqvarna-chainsaws/page/2/ tbh I've never seen one bigger than an 18" in that mount so surprised to see this!

 

 

Saw those but need it to be 3/8 058 to get the skip chain 😒 may have to save some more and buy another saw 😜

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Ran a 20" on my 1 for a few years now since new and the new gray husky bars seem quite good after I destroyed my sugi.... Along with the saw it was attached to 😭

Don't think I'd want Togo much bigger as the balance will be miles out, better to swap to a bigger saw imo

 

Sent from my D5803 using Arbtalk mobile app

 

 

Was that 20" 325 or 3/8?

 

The new husky bars are a little better than old but still don't come anywhere near a Sugi

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Saw those but need it to be 3/8 058 to get the skip chain [emoji19] may have to save some more and buy another saw [emoji12]

 

 

My bad I thought it was.. didn't see the 050 bit .. I don't think you will find one to be honest ... in this country any how.

 

 

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https://www.chainsdirect.co.uk/husqvarna-bars-chains/3518-20-3-8-oregon-pro-lite-chainsaw-bar-for-husqvarna-555-560xp-560xpg-k095.html

Possibly ? I get what stubby is saying now about the larger mounts and 562 side clutch cover ..

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk

 

 

Completely forgot to look there.

They have a 20 and 24 in the 3/8 and k095 fitment 😳

 

Not sure the side case needs to change as loads of people running 3/8 on these.

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To the original question, skip chain usually is stupid, unless the bar and wood is far too large for the powerhead.

 

Typically it is a US PNW thing, where the trees usually are large fast-grown softwoods, and chip clearance is a bigger issue than cutting speed.

 

Then they may be useful in a pinch, if you have to put a much longer bar than normal on a saw. Cutting always will be slow though, about 33 % slower than full comp, minus whatever more rpms will make up for. If the bar and wood is way too large for the saw you may end up on the bonus side - but if so it is evidence that you used a way too small saw for the task.

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To the original question, skip chain usually is stupid, unless the bar and wood is far too large for the powerhead.

 

Typically it is a US PNW thing, where the trees usually are large fast-grown softwoods, and chip clearance is a bigger issue than cutting speed.

 

Then they may be useful in a pinch, if you have to put a much longer bar than normal on a saw. Cutting always will be slow though, about 33 % slower than full comp, minus whatever more rpms will make up for. If the bar and wood is way too large for the saw you may end up on the bonus side - but if so it is evidence that you used a way too small saw for the task.

 

This . I only use full skip on the long bars typically 36" and over just to and chip clearance when the full lenghth of the bar is burried and stop jam ups .

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Now bear with me on this 😜

 

I run full skip on my 372 and 3120 but it's not available for the 560 in 325"

 

The other day I knocked a few teeth off a nearly new chain, can I remove every other tooth so it's balanced and create a skip chain?

 

Or is it too late in the day for creativity?

 

You can get full skip chains for the 560 at Radmore tucker that's all I run in mine 👍

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