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Posted

been asked to provide some milled timber for mantle pieces, small stuff about four and a half foot by 8 inches by four inches. Am going to use the 560xp so welded up a small Alaskan mill for the job, i'm running an 18" bar and want to use as much of it as possible. How close to the nose sprocket can I clamp to without trapping or straining the sprocket?

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Posted

What I do is get the clamp as close as I dare, tighten it up as tight as it needs to be. Then I run the chain by hand. If it runs, fine. If it doesn't, I shift the clamp down the bar, tighten it again and see if the chain will run by hand.

 

Not very scientific but it seems to work.

Posted
been asked to provide some milled timber for mantle pieces, small stuff about four and a half foot by 8 inches by four inches. Am going to use the 560xp so welded up a small Alaskan mill for the job, i'm running an 18" bar and want to use as much of it as possible. How close to the nose sprocket can I clamp to without trapping or straining the sprocket?

 

Try putting a g-clamp on the bar on or near the sprocket and tighten as much as you would with the mill. Then move it around untill the sprocket spins freely

Posted

Really you need to clamp on the bar body away from the nose sprocket. On some bars the bar nose sprocket rivets are proud and so do allow to clamp to the nose but I have never done this - too much chance of damaging the bar.

Posted

another question sorry, I have a spare husky 18",.325, 72dl bar lying in the shed which has a 1.5wide grooved. Unfortunately the chains I bought for it are stihl and Oregon which need a 1.6mm groove. Does anyone sell a suitable rip chain for this bar? would it be better than the standard cross cut chain when milling such small diameters, and if so would I be better just buying a 72dl .325 1.5mm husky chain or shelve the bar and buy a 72dl .325 1.6mm bar for my spare chains?

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