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adamelder

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Everything posted by adamelder

  1. I've got a Dewalt electric one. Used that plus 54volt 9Ah battery to cut down and log up for the stove a 35-40ish foot sycamore. It took about 45ish mins from start to finish. It ran out of charge with about 5 foot of the butt left.
  2. I just took down this sycamore - about 16 inches at the base, 35-40ish foot tall with the Dewalt battery saw. Got almost all the brash off it and logged about half the thicker branches into 12 inch lengths. I stopped when the battery (54 volt, 9ah) died. I didn't time anything but probably about an hour, with a couple of fags breaks.
  3. I got a Dewalt 16 inch battery saw. I had plenty Dewalt 54 volt batteries anyway and the bare saw unit was only £250. It's fantastic. I normally use Stihl 261, 461, 661. For anything up to about 10-12 inches the Dewalt is the one I pick up first now. I'll get about 45 mins from one 54v 9amp hour battery cutting time.
  4. I had a 2014 Hilux 2.4 until recently. When I got it it had one battery. I installed a winch. I also installed an extra battery and a T-Max charge box to look after the batteries. I just replaced that Hilux (because I wrote off the old one - don't ask) with a 2014 3.0 which has two batteries installed already. Do I connect the winch to the battery at the front or the battery at the rear of the engine bay?
  5. Can anyone advise me on what will tolerate growing in a glade that's surrounded by mature sycamore. The sycamore is TPO and the tree officer isn't keen on me removing any more. Please don't say "more sycamore"! The glade is about 30m circular. Soil is good, free draining, deep. I'd like to plant (reasonably) native hardwoods if possible.
  6. I'll second Ratman. I've had the Granberg for a few years and it keeps chain in very precise nick. All cutters the same length etc. The diamond stones are well worth the extra cost too.
  7. Been using a 661 for milling for about 18 months. No problems at all.
  8. I'm sort of glad to hear that some others are having the same issue. I need to make an adjustment on the backstop when I swing the grinder round to do the other side. If I don't the tooth length would be about 2-3mm longer or shorter. Other than that it's a great bit of kit.
  9. Does anyone know if the Stihl spouts fit onto the Husky combi can? I've got the Huski can but as everyone (and now me too) knows the spouts are hopeless.
  10. I appealed the Tree Officer's decision. A few days later I got a call from the Tree Officer (this is the first time I've ever spoken with him. He hadn't returned any of my calls) asking to meet to see if we could find common ground. So we met up, had a chat and I agreed to reduce the number of trees to come out in the first phase of removal from 14 to 9. His feeling is that little and often is the route of least resistance. Everybody's happy. It's just a shame I had to instigate an appeal to get communication going.
  11. drinksloe, Tree Officer wants no thinning or tree removal whatsoever. My woodland has residential neighbours, most of whom are fine but as ever there are one or two. I've got one who is insistent that four of my trees are going to fall on his house and has written to the council demanding their removal - despite two arborist reports stating that they are in no danger of toppling anytime soon. But of course, the same guy complained to the council when I asked for removal of the invasive sycamore. So discreetly removing a couple of trees at a time would be a non-starter and obviously with sizeable fines for breaching a TPO I'm reluctant to take the risk. The rest of the wood is fantastically beautiful and I want to keep it that way hence the desire to contain the sycamore population.
  12. My plan is to wait until the arboriculturist is back from his holiday and see if he can contact the tree officer to find a middle ground between felling the lot and felling nothing. As I mentioned earlier I've got 28 days to lodge an appeal - my guy is back from holiday in 10 days so we've got a bit of time to work out what to do. I've got nothing against sycamores but I do know that planting underneath them is a pretty futile exercise.
  13. My feeling exactly. Unfortunately the Council tree officer isn't in agreement.
  14. Here's a few pictures of the area I'm talking about. It's surrounded by another 6 acres of woodland which has a very diverse mix of hardwoods and some very large conifer. It was probably originally planted as an ornamental woodland. My concern is that this area of sycamore is liable to spread unless tightly managed and is so heavily covered that any planting within the sycamore group is destined to fail.
  15. Anyone got any advice on this? I would ask the consultant who wrote my report but he is abroad for three weeks. I'm considering appealing the tree officer's decision and need to do that within 28 days. I had a Management Recommendation Report prepared by a very well experienced and respected arboricultural consultant on my woodland which is covered by TPO. Within the wood there has historically been a gladed area which over the last 30 years has succumbed to invasive sycamore - about 60 mature trees. This is now spreading outwith the originally gladed area into the rest of the wood which has a very diverse species spread. The report recommends removal of the sycamore and replanting with a diverse mix of native hardwood. I applied to my local Council to carry out the sycamore removal and replant as per the report. The tree officer has rejected this and has stated, "While long term management of a woodland previous devoid of pro active action is supported the complete removal of a single species in this instance is not. There are many silvicultural systems to allow continous cover on a site while sensitive planting of alternative species could be undertaken to diversify species. The proposed planting could be undertaken over a phased period to allow successful establishment and age distribution." The sycamore area (about1/4 acre) is very dense with trees ranging from about 40 years down to seedling size. Does anyone know of any silivicultural system that will work, allowing me to diversify the species mix within the sycamore area - without felling any existing sycamore?
  16. West Systems 105/205 resin is very very good. The most effective way of getting rid of bubbles is a quick pass over the surface with a blowtorch. Some woodworkers go the whole hog and use a vacuum bag to remove all the bubbles from within the resin.
  17. Agree. Downhill milling is a lot easier.
  18. Thanks for that Tom. I'll try to get through to the right person for a steer on the way forward. The trees could be dropped in minutes but they are leaning heavily right over the wire. Not touching it yet but definitely going that way.
  19. I have two small trees quite close to an overhead electricity wire which need felling, Scottish Borders. Does anyone have a contact I can call for the utility company to discuss switching the supply off while tree work is done?
  20. Some pictures of a bed I made over 3 months last year. Mostly elm but with some ash and oak. I'm not exactly sure how many hours went into it. I tend to just do a couple of hours at a time. It's very solid, very heavy. Like pretty much everything I make it was all done a bit at a time. No drawings. Just sort of a rough idea in mind, make a start and then see where things go.
  21. I'm not sure about linking to this forum but Google Photos is by far the best and easiest way to store, search for and retrieve images and video. And it's free.
  22. A very good friend of mine (Richard Gregan) is an emigration specialist to NZ. Thoroughly decent bloke. He'll happily give you lots of advice about the actual process of making it happen. Emigrate to Australia, New Zealand, Canada, USA | Visa Services
  23. Ive had my fingers burnt trying hundreds of different ways to protect oak from moisture. Covering it in an epoxy works but as soon as there's a chip in the covering and the water gets in the problems start with a vengance. The boat is fantastic and seeing it reminded me of a table I built years ago from oak. It sat out in my garden and despite all efforts with varnishes of every sort, epoxy, oils, etc it still went black. I got fed up with it after about a year and so we dragged it down to the beach at low tide and chained it to the rocks. Left it there for a few weeks. Of course it got well distressed by the waves but after we took it back to the garden it didn't start going black again for a good couple of years. So I can only think that the salt from the sea must have had some sort of effect. Many thanks for the nice words about the sink. The hardest bit of doing it was getting it up two flights of stairs. I remember we put it on two sets of bathroom scales and it maxed them both out at 22 stone each.

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