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Run a CS362 great saw, bought it when i had trouble with Stihl MS 200T never use 200T much now. When my old boss helped me on job a couple of years ago said I was crawl to it when I double cut a large Horse chestnut limb.

Every shop customer has said that the cs2511 is their go to saw. Most bought it for pruning work but then find out they are using it for section fells and the 201 540 gets moved to the back of the queue. As Mr Bolam said get the 10" 1/4" pitch setup or go for the stihl ms151 bar and chain setup. The bigger cs362 is very reliable but it hasnt got the power and speed of the 201 or 540 and it does feel more bulky although it's slightly lighter.

The CS362, never seen one. I'm sure its a good saw but people only buy the CS2511 I have an Echo 2511 and one of the Farmertec clones Joncutter G2511 and its the clone I currently use, so consider that - mine was £92 delivered. If you intend to tune it, the clones have a much simpler exhaust that is easier to do, but all of my saws are as standard. 3/8 full chisel chains are best in my option, and I prefer the mini carving bar, you can do more precise cuts with it. Medium tree take downs? I'd say they run out of power on a 10" cut, they are suited to less. Perfect for most pruning work and limbing smaller removals then swap up to chog the stem. However recently I'd say I have been converted to battery saws for pruning and small work, generally on this work a battery will last ages. The Echo DCS2500T may be worth a look, never used one. I have the Makita UC002, its between the 2511 and my 020T for power, size and weight. My only complaint is the power button location, and that it turns off exactly when you dont want it to when doing awkward positional cuts. It is a nice saw and excellent value at £220'ish, you can claim a free battery for it until september. I still use the G2511 for smaller work but it would be nice not to need petrol except on bigger jobs.

2511 is one of the best purchases I’ve ever made in arb. Run it on 10” bar (24” if you’re American) and 1/4P and never look back.

I've two of the two 362tes, from new , bit bulky but OK echo haven't really cottoned of to furthering the machines . Can't common of echo 2511 have seen local council use them the other day and it did remind me of the stihl 020t . I've got the mitox clone of the echo 2511 , cheap quick and so far has been good . Don't like stihl being hit and miss with certain models .

Its been a long time since I've climbed but that certainly brought back memories! Most of my interactions were killing the thing but sometimes it was just a deadwood and a reduction so not all bad.

Check the wiring first and of course the off switch, if something is shorting out it will stop the spark. Its about £10 for the wiring harness and £100 for the coil. If the rest of the machine is in good condition, loads of compression, no scores on the piston then its definitely worth fixing imo.

I was going to drop it to a shop to read the ECU, pressure test etc but timing (scheduling) didn't work. It's the saw I put a new fuel tank on when a branch got dropped on it. Quite conceivable that other damage happened at the same time so I've been reading the plug fairly regularly. Always fine but the running on did worry me for reasons you allude to.

You really need to check for air leaks as holding onto a high idle is a good sign that something isn't right. Unless you have a few tools to block off the carb, exhaust and have a pressure tester you need to at least check manifold pipes, impulse pipes and check all fuel lines. If it is till doing it get it pressure tested as its a good few quid to replace a piston and cylinder.

Some little trick ive used for a while since you dont need to start the saw up if you want to check for oil flow and you have an air compressor handy just spin the drum up with a blow gun pointed at the sprocket splines/rim. No chance of a clutch explosion using this method. Still didnt help me solve an oiling issue on a t540i though!

OK. Yes. That's a shit plan. I better go and cut something with it. Back to you in due course.

Did the reset and put it away. I'll find out how well it runs the next time I pull it up a tree (hopefully never).

Is the saw still running well and could you see a noticeable difference after the rest?

It's good to hear that you've got it running. It is worth using the original carb if you can get it sorted.

Chicken and bacon pasta bake made with toons! Holiday mode kicking in! 20250821_184021.mp4

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We have 6-8 old Hayter Harrier’s that we would like to get rid of! £10 each, or open for offers. can be used for spares or repairs. please call 01428 707269 for more information. Collection only. thank you Simmonds Saws Garden Machinery LTD

The 2511 is the one that people are using most. Stock its a bit boring, opened up its really excellent, if a little loud.

If it is like other fruit trees, don't take more than about 1/3 in any year and yes, you should be able to prune it back to a more pleasing shape. I think do it earlier in the year is better than now. As Muddy says, looks a bit dry too - some mulching around the base might help too, dig the grass back a bit to help that out.

Thinking of replacing my 201TC with something new, and the echo’s have been top on my list as I’ve heard they’re super lightweight and can be tuned to be proper screamers. there’s a CS2511 and a CS362, has anyone used either of these and can confirm if they’re good for medium tree take downs etc? Or any other recommendations? Cheers

Personally Id say it was suffering from drought, particularly given the brown lawn and healthy lavender.

I have a 6 year old peach tree which is increasingly lanky year by year. I have tried pruning but the long branches remain. Can I prune much harder, or is it failing for different reasons. I am a beginner with no knowledge

Sequoia, newer style. Spent a bit of time in a skyloctec, and the sequoia is by far and away better. Can't stick the webbing bridge.