Muddy42
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Everything posted by Muddy42
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Boiled Linseed Oil? If you want you could apply two coats and the first would be thinned with turps for better penetration. Heating the BLO slightly helps. You could also patch the two holes with square pieces of wood that were the same width as each plank but half the depth. Cut out square recesses to take the patches with a chisel or a router, essentially a type of "dutchman repair." If you wanted to get really pro you could make a round tabletop from a piece of board and a router.
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Agreed. If you cut, split and stack the wood in an open sunny area, before the sap rises then you can get the moisture level below 20% by the end of summer. Sorry for going on about big sheds, 2 years and mechanisation, that just makes life so much easier.
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That's related to the big Scandinavian debate - do you stack split wood 'bark up or bark down'? Bark might keep water off, but also might trap in water? Maybe you can get the best of both worlds - bark down for a few months then, turn the top row over in September? All very nice and quaint, but once you need a volume beyond a few trailer loads, its all about saving effort and minimising the handling times. That means stacking in a big open sided shed and as much mechanization as possible - splitter, a few IBC cages and a small tractor/loader etc.
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Sorry what do you mean by a pump? Something like a mityvac that tests vac and pressure with the same setup is ideal. I agree about avoiding chinese carbs. Also have you considered using the worst saws as donors? It depends what price you got them for and how far you want to go, but ordering new parts can soon get expensive. Maybe once you have pressure tested the crankcases, you could salvage parts from the ones that fail or have issues with the cranks. Rebuilding crankcases requires special tools and a fair degree of skill to do right.
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Yes you can do this if its split to stove sized pieces and stack well, ideally for two years rather than one. But why not use tin or tarps to keep the rain off?
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Sorry to be contrarian, but you can either wait and the shed gets further crushed and wet or act now and at least get a tarpaulin over the shed. If you have the equipment, are qualified and are 100% confident you can clear up the tree safely, I'd just go for it. Getting the council to do anything or give you money or a court case would be stressful, expensive, time consuming and probably fruitless.
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Its each to their own I guess. I hand file only so if I hit a stone with a new chain and I've got 30 minutes of filling to do. Maybe then a test cut to see it cuts straight and the rakers are set right. All of this barely matters for an old stump chain - basic sharpen and go. If it looses too many teeth then bin it. I'm basically using old chains as a quick small grinder for small stumps, cutting vertical slots, cutting off diagonal sections.
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Cut the stump as low as possible with a chainsaw and an old chain, then grind the stump below ground level and cover with soil and reseed. There are no short cuts here, aside from matching the size of the grinder to the size of the job, grinding a big stump with a small grinder can take hours. Holy suckers will die with one or two applications of glyphosate. I've just done exactly this over the past few weeks.
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Just bin the spark arrester or drill it out. I've adapted, fixed, or changed a few exhausts and the engines run fine afterwards. If you are worried about the engine running differently, check the tuning.
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I've also had some suckers. I suspect the rootstocks are from older more wilder versions of the fruiting tree above ground, cherry grafted onto a type of wild cherry for example. More specifically, rootstocks are chosen for their vigour - dwarf/slow growing to vigorous/massive. Personally I think dwarf trees look silly and would rather have vigorous growth. Yes you may have to prune more but you get more fruit quicker and can prune, shape and deal with diseased bits.
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Have you tried putting a drop of mixed fuel in the spark plug hole rather than the inlet on the carb side? As others have said a massive air leak can stop the fuel being transferred. With an older saw, you should pressure and vac test before spending proper money. Although often confused, a pressure test is NOT the same as a compression test.
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Isn’t it meant to be clear or only slightly yellow? This looks like morning urine!
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How bad is it? I've never done this, but I've heard of people butchering a new spark plug to make a tap to clean out and restore the threads. Basically you cut grooves at right angles to the thread. I've done this successfully with a normal bolt and threads, but never to an engine.
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Roughly what is your % big tree VS small tree/hedges
Muddy42 replied to Excels1or's topic in General chat
can you be more specific about this - aches and sprains from using heavy petrol strimmers? Thanks, -
This E5 petrol was bought from a busy fuel station 13 days ago and stored indoors away from sunlight in a plastic 5l petrol can. What do you think of the colour? I guess it could be a dye or some varnish from the petrol can? It doesn't smell off.
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The range of price for a bag of logs is extraordinary isn't it. £20 to the equivalent of a couple of hundred for those small bags on the fuel station forecourt!
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What's the best options for cutting your own logs?
Muddy42 replied to Dougie Stirling's topic in Firewood forum
Have you considered an mains electric splitter to go with your mains electric saw? They can be slow but less effort than splitting by hand. -
Yes I agree with that. My cylinder looked very like the pictures above with deep scoring and gouges. Maybe too much sawdust got past the air filter (husqvarna ranchers are known for a flawed choke and air filter design), or it was poorly tuned or used with poor fuel? Anything could have happened over its 30 years. I'm going to have to try an aftermarket cylinder and piston next.
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Agree. I've concluded that I have over-rubbed a cylinder recently which resulted in too poor compression to run. But then if you leave marks you wear the piston. This is why some cylinders are beyond it. All you can do now is run it - use plenty of 2 stroke oil when assembling the piston and in your mix.
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Sorry your photo isn't the best - but either the cylinder could be past repair or just requires more polishing. Generally people say your fingernail shouldn't catch on anything. Meteor pistons tend to be good, are you sure it is the right size, how did the fit feel, any rocking?
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Have you tried thicker line with the Oregon jet head? I find two pieces of 4mm square cord can last for 3 or 4 tanks of fuel. I think its important to use it in the correct situation, if cutting waist high grass or thick stuff like docks, its time to move up to a blade. I've never been that impressed with the standard bump heads.
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I had a similar thing on my car. The DPF was clogged causing two sensors to go. It was a very expensive repair. Its a diesel car that was just used for frequent short journeys which is a bad pattern for causing problems. Stupidly the automatic gearbox was also in an eco mode, which kept the revs down. I now keep the car in sport and make sure it gets a decent blast or revs once in a while.
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You could even try and clip on an old jerry can lid? Proper hillbilly.
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Good idea. If all else fails, you could try and make a hillbilly fix with a thick plastic bottle. Try and find a bottle with as close a neck profile as the the fuel tank shoulder. Cut the neck and lid off the bottle and jubilee clip it to the fuel tank with a strip of rubber between the surfaces. An aspen or motomix bottle might work. You could even mold the plastic to fit with a heatgun. The aspen bottle cap can then simply be unscrewed for filling.
