Muddy42

Do any of those other screws fit? You can get special "security" bits for the star shaped one on the right. If yes, measure it or take it to a dealer and they'll have one.

I've got a thicknesses like that, except mine has two added dangers - a table saw and it runs off an uncovered belt from an motor. I find it so scary to use, that I rarery use it.

I run both multi-fuel and wood only stoves with just wood and don't find there is much difference. As you say its still possible to build up a bed of ash in the MF stoves anyway. Many of them are also adjustable - the grate can be replaced with vermiculite if you change your mind. I guess an iron grate might be slightly more robust and long lasting, vermiculite needs replacing occasionally. Sorry to add another dimension to your selection, but I'd treat some of the newer eco design stoves with caution. These are designed by scientists for maximum efficiency and minimum air pollution under perfect laboratory conditions (perfect draught, perfect weather, perfect flue, perfect modern house) and with little control over air flow and a large baffle to recirculate air. In real life many of them can be tricky to light and/or smoke back into the room. Yes older stoves such as Clearviews might be less efficient and send heat up the chimney, but I find them much more pleasant to operate! Do some research.

Never heard of that before! When you are using the stove, they won't like the environment at all, in the summer just keep the stove door and vents closed. If you are really concerned, you could always use an anti moth bomb, but then a small fire in the summer would have a similar effect Is this a recently installed stove or liner? A well used flue will be a pretty toxic environment even in summer. If its new, maybe the problem will go away with use.

Above is a print out of a stihl file size guide - left column = chain pitch in inches and mm and right hand column = file diameter. The stihl kits have everything you need to maintain a chain - search for "Stihl filing kit for 0.325 inch chain"

Yup I was thinking of that aspect too, but you explained it better.

Not sure about that? All other brushcutter blade bolts or heads I know of are reverse threaded, (when looking from below) to keep them on. These hex screws are right hand thread. Surely if staying on was a problem, right hand thread (when looking from above) is subject to the same forces as left hand reverse thread (when looking from below)? My head hurts now.

This jet fit head arrived and it is definitely a copy, but a good one at that. I'd have no issues using this other than the four hex screws are made of very soft metal and I nearly stripped one. I only needed one spring but I'll keep everything else incase I need any other parts. All the other parts look fully interchangeable with the original Oregon head..

Agreed. To the OP, try a new reputable sparkplug and let us know how you get on. A new plus will have crisp threads (not sure if the one you've used was damaged at the same time as the thread?) plus a stronger spring washer.

Maybe try a new sparkplug with crisp threads. New sparkplugs will also have a stronger spring washer? Use grease.

Never borrow or lend chimney/draining rods! I have learnt to my peril that if the rods are poorly looked after an end can come off and get stuck, either up the chimney or down a drain. I doubt your rig would do much cleaning. No offense, but any competent DIY-er should own a set of 3/4 inch chimney rods, the money spent will repay you many times over in sweeping fees or drain SOS fees. I've used mine hundreds of times. Bailey Industrial Bailey Universal 30ft Chimney Brush Sweep Sweeping Drain Rod Set Kit WWW.BAILEYSUPPLIES.CO.UK The Industrial Bailey 30ft Chimney Brush Sweep Drain Rod Kits includes 4 popular tools with the following contents: 10 x 3ft x 3/4 inch Blue Rods 1 x 4 inch plunger 1 x 4 inch drop...

Just a few thoughts. Check the swing of the door doesn't bang the wall with your configuration? A hot door might leave a mark. Continuing on the point, stoves are pretty messy, you might want a box of logs nearby or somewhere to stack a poker. So rather than plaster, it might be a good idea to have some kind of hardwearing wall or fireplace round the stove anyway? Finally stoves can be moved and flue angles inserted, if this is required in the future. Maybe get your installer to promise he will do this, if it turns out it needs more space.

Genius, thank you. I have ordered the ebay head. I'm not sure how I missed both those links. Yes it works well, thanks. I probably read your post, I can't remember. Although I have often wondered why Oregon didn't put the four hex bolts the other way up, safely facing the sky? It takes a bit of care and picking out muck not to strip them. One day I'll probably manage to smash them up.

Yes I'll try my dealer. At the moment I'm running a four line head with two lines opposite each other. This works better a the nut is protected, but it would be nice to have all four working, so that if a line got stuck I could cut it off and keep going with the two spare holes. Opening up the head in the field is not ideal with the risk of springs flying off everywhere.

Does anyone know where I can order new springs for these, the internal ones that are accessible once you dismantle the head, that hold the pawls tight to the line. Somehow I managed to destroy a spring. I suspect 4mm square flexiblade line is actually on the limit of what these can handle as I have had a few blockages. Works great otherwise. Nothing on Google. Thanks.

I think I'll just leave the plug in for now as it starts easily enough without the decomp valve.

I don't really have a favourite firewood. Its all gets seasoned so long its virtually unrecognizable and dry enough that the stove or biomass will burn whatever you feed it with.

So is it working now? I service my old oil AGA every year. The flue needs very little cleaning but its amazing the effect a fine film of soot can have on reducing the draught and making a smell in the kitchen. A variety of brush are needed for the thinner pipes near the boiler. Other than that its simply a case of cleaning the filter at the tank end, making sure oil is flowing and all the carbon is removed. You can get various nest removal tools for regular 3/4 inch screw-in chimney rod sets.

Thanks. Definitely used a fair bit. Thanks. Its really hard to tell. I'm leaning slightly towards it leaking at the thread than the valve, but the whole thing was covered in oily soot. I'm going to clean it up and try again. I get that the valve might leak a bit if used, maybe i'll see if it still leaks when I don't use the valve.

This is on a one year old Husqvarna brushcutter 555rxt that has been used a lot. I was doing some routine maintenance after it became a bit harder to start. I have replaced the decomp valve with a plug to see if that makes a difference. I appreciate that you get some oil on the decomp valve but this seems excessive?

Boiled Linseed Oil? If you want you could apply two coats and the first would be thinned with turps for better penetration. Heating the BLO slightly helps. You could also patch the two holes with square pieces of wood that were the same width as each plank but half the depth. Cut out square recesses to take the patches with a chisel or a router, essentially a type of "dutchman repair." If you wanted to get really pro you could make a round tabletop from a piece of board and a router.

Agreed. If you cut, split and stack the wood in an open sunny area, before the sap rises then you can get the moisture level below 20% by the end of summer. Sorry for going on about big sheds, 2 years and mechanisation, that just makes life so much easier.

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