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Posts posted by Steven1210
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Good evening folks.
So, on Monday had a job, to drop an old pop, that was clearly dead.
Had one of the 2t forrestry winches, 2/4 ton, not sure which
I was on ropes, and it starts to go, winch cant keep up with the slack, so cant pull it in direction it really needs to go......
Im literally stunned how slow it is, yet if it was on tracked chipper, it be right.
So upon inspection, after being told its all my fault, the left hand side (from fellers view) is rotten, and completely like mush, there was no way a winch would pull that over when half the tree was mush.
I could have pulled harder, and with more distance than a piddly 2t (yes i appreciate their torque in situations called for)
think @spuddog0507 can advise me, as Im relatively new to ARB?Forrestry
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I have the blink system, usually on offer at various times through amazon. They do have a subscription after the trial runs out, but you can stick a usb into the sync module and no need to pay subscription.
Video is good although not as good as say a hikvision system, but there is a massive difference in cost.
You can get a pack of the doorbell, and 3 external cameras, sync module, angle plate for doorbell, and cover for doorbell for £131 when on offer (all battery powered) and can add the indoor cameras which are mains/usb powered (£60 a pair) Again, this is what I paid last year on one of the sales days.
They are relatively easy to set up, and set various detection zones, set alarm schedule times etc.
Steve
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Maybe add some removable/cleanable sweatband.
Would make it more comfortable and easier to clean would possibly stop the rash.
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If anyone is still looking for a 592xp, radmore and tucker have stock, as do honey brothers.
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Why not just run alkylate fuel?
For the little use it would take the faff out of it.
Granted, it costs more, but saves you having to drain and buy stabilisation products.
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I bought a husky 135mk2 as my first saw. Grand little thing. What I didn't factor in was PPE. I'm still a novice, but if you don't already have it, get some chainsaw pants, boots and a lid with visor and ear protection.
Oyer a year later I'm now in better PPE, boots, with a better saw,and also being trained by 2 very knowledgeable guys.
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I wouldn't worry about it
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Jesus christ.
8 pages of shite because a delivery could be done for x y and z.
John
Welcome to the world. If its so very important, go buy it yourself.
Otherwise, get to aldi, use one of the self checkout, post a video on YouTube.
You would likely make millions.
Your a ****************ing moron pal.
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8 hours ago, Mark_Skyland said:
I know that there arent any holes on the 550/560 cover but I I'm wondering if the 562 cover will fit. I will have to check it out
Hi Mark
The 550/545 has the nut holders on the clutch cover, and just need drilled out to allow outer spikes.
The outer spike fits 550/545 no problem, but the inner needs slight work.
Steve
Not sure about 560
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Video didn't show for me either, (on phone)
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I'm not sure, I only stumbled across it in the manual.
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Bleed valve just behind the splitter head?
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On 04/05/2022 at 19:59, EdGreen said:
Hello folks, I have five extremely large leylandii trees out back, which have never been cut back since being planted around 40 years ago. You can imagine how overgrown they are! Neighbours are complaining light is being blocked, so I need to sort it. I've recently been made redundant, so cannot afford the services of a professional. I am in my late 30s, fit and healthy, not afraid of heights.
I already have Makita kit for DIY, so it makes sense to buy one of their electric saws.
Question is do I go for a top handle model or a rear handle model? I read the advantages and disadvantages of both, but wonder what's more relevant in the real world.
(A) = rear handle model https://makitauk.com/product/duc305z
- 1,100 watts
- 5.3kg weight with 2 batts
- 30cm bar
(B) = top handle model
- 800 watts
- 4.7kg weight with 2 batts
- 30 cm bar
I have a commercial 7.5m ladder with a stabiliser T bar at the bottom, which I will rope to the tree.
Plan is to go up the ladder, cutting off various branches on the way up (have watched various YouTube safety videos and the dangers of branches springing back, not wearing the right PPE etc. so not going into this totally blind), once I get as I high as I can I will see if I can top it off.
Once I get down, whatever I have cut off will need to be cut into pieces to take down to the tip.
With the task in mind, which of these two is the better option for me?
Thanks in advance!
Ed
Hello fella
I can only give you my 2pence worth.
If a professional arborist quoted you £1300, then that's for a reason.
I first joined here as a guy a did a cinema install for had a lot of trees he wanted clearing in his land, and said I could fell them, and have all the wood.......great stuff!
I was looking at a £100 saw, that came with 2 bars, 4 chains and some ppe.
I got loads of advice from the pro guys on here, and ended up with a husky 135mk2 (£215) but then also purchased some CHAINSAW PPE, helmet, ear defenders, visor, trousers, gloves & boots, these were roughly £200, so all in all we are up to over £400.
My main intention was for firewood, and to learn how to safely use a chainsaw.
I got lucky and a decent bloke on here @spuddog0507 agreed to teach me how to use a saw safely, do maintenance, and forward my knowledge on timber, and saws.
At that point I realised that felling trees, was WAY WAY WAY above my skillset, so gave it a miss and the guy in question got a clearance team in to level the lot, thankfully!
@spuddog0507 was proper strict with me, but in all fairness, his explanation was if those teeth can do that to wood, what will they do to you........... The saw will take my leg off, without a shadow of a doubt, hence buying the correct PPE, and listening to spud.
I used to race bikes, so still have some kevlar jeans, i thought would stand their ground, if processing firewood, crosscutting....WRONG!
I have been with @spuddog0507 and @Ratman when they felled a tree and dealt with it. It looks easy on all the youtube clips etc, but when any professional does a job it will look easy. They are professionals, have the correct kit, know what they are doing, and do this day in, day out.
What ****************s the job up, is when homeowners come along and think they can cut down a tree (ME 6 MONTHS AGO!) then they realise, the saw cost is one thing, safety gear is another, and every day is a school day, even for some of the most experienced of arborists.
If your out of work currently, then I certainly feel for you, and your need to occupy your time, but seriously, paint the bedroom, bathroom, or lounge. It will cost you less, and most likely save your life.
I understand so, so much more now, and im still a diy, weekend warrior with a chainsaw. I just have good people willing to show me their skill set, and to teach me how not to kill myself.
I ask you this......
Do you value your leg above £1300?
Your life above £1300?
Then either take some time with a pro, or hire a pro
Its just not so simple as "cut it down"
Thats my 2pence worth, from someone that knows **************** all, but is learning everyday im with the pro guys.
Crosscut, split, stack, maintain the saw.
I wish you all the best in finding employment.
Steve
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11 hours ago, MattyF said:
I'd get what is ever the most decent price at the time and what you want Mike , I use husky X cut for my 550's, I had a reel of the Oregon new chisel last year but got a reel of the stihl which I prefer when it ran out , just slightly softer to sharpen... overall I prefer the stihl but they are all good chains..
Hi MattyF
What x cut are you using?
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Husky 135mk2 and PPE would be my go to. WOP do a ppe kit with chaps, helmet, ear defenders, visor and chainsaw gloves around £100. If you ask them they swapped out the chaps and replaced them with trousers for me.
Amazon had oregon chainsaw boots for £75
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1 minute ago, Stubby said:
You might have to " spot " the holes through with a drill . I think its the same cover on your saw . Note the 562 cover is different in that the outer dawg mounting holes are further apart ( to account for the 3/8th running gear . Sooo if you buy a new set of dawgs get them for a 560 not a 562 . I think !
Cheers Stubby, will have a check tomorrow.
Could you possibly let me know centre to centre on yours? Will measure it up tomorrow.
Ps, belly pan is to protect the under side, as most of the stuff I'm doing is at home, with no "soft or Forrest" areas to put it down when moving shit about.
Want to take care of an expense, which isn't a daily work tool.
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11 minutes ago, Stubby said:
Cheers for that stubby. Will check it out tomorrow
The spikes are for a 545/550, not the 372/385/390.
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3 minutes ago, Dan Maynard said:
Maybe the ones off a 572 would be longer? Still the same M8 thread as nearly all saws.
Thank you, I will check those out. Cheers Dan
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12 minutes ago, carlos said:
cant you just use it with the ones fitted on the inside as per your first photo?
id imagine they would be fine for most kind of cutting.
Yes, more than likely
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Maybe on slate chipping in the garden🙄
It really was a sinple question.
Are longer bar studs available.
Pretty straightforward really👍
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41 minutes ago, gary112 said:
Why do you need longer bar studs?
I have put some spikes on the saw and the nuts don't get as much thread on the studs.
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Good evening.
Need some longer bar studs for a husky 545mk2
Can you even get longer ones, or are they a standard length?
Cheers in advance
Rotten tree with 2 stroke winch
in General chat
Posted
Sorry for the lack of replies, as my password was stored on laptop I couldn't log in and post from phone.
Sorted now.
The tree was in a field next to 2 small apple trees, so they were the only "target"
I didn't arrange the job or decide on the method of removal.
@Dan Maynard I totally agree, dead wood, no strength.
@Mark Bolam it was clearly dead, and rotten, hence the winch was brought out.
@Donnie shit happens, but you do t blame others (as i have seen)
@spuddog0507 yes, very different, there was no control, it jusr went
i have little experience in arb/forrestry, and could see it was rotten.
the winch just couldn't keep up when it started to go (too quick with back cut?)
When winch was in control it had a lead on direction, then just went, the winch couldn't pull the rope fast enough to aid anything to direction.
There was no hinge, just rotten shite.....
To me in my limited knowledge, it's as if the tree started to go, and the weight shift just caused the rotted stem to give way.
But apparently my fault.....