Dendrologen

I am just starting my own thing. I have just got a quote from an insurer. Public liability does not include damage to property, just injury to the public. Is this normal? I always thought that would be a standard part of the cover as it's a far more likely event. Seems odd that you have to ad it on. Thanks for any advice.

This is a classic. The client will only be disappointed when they see that this has no noticeable effect on how much crap drops onto their yard. They'd be better off scooting round with a leaf blower every now and then. The price you pay for living alongside nature and a very small one. I would tell them that and say that you can thin and reduce it anyway for them, if they really want. Personally, I wouldn't top out any tree unless it was exceptional circumstances. Never recovers well, increases risk of branch failure and looks crap. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

I agree with the distel hitch suggestions. I have found this to be the best knot for a lanyard with a pulley. Always bites, always gives out. The length and diameter combos are key. I have a 70cm 8mm e2e with a 13mm lanyard, works beautifully, but you'll probably find your own sweet spot. Also, I find the lark's foot type prussik knot doesn't work very well with pulleys as they pull the legs of the cord down the lanyard, rather than outward, away from it, if that makes sense. This means the knot doesn't sit right when it bites and can get a bit stuck.

The conifers look like Firs to me. Maybe Douglas? Hemlock have floppy tops. Broadleaf is not easy to tell in that pic

Looks like you are right. There is a biocontrol that FC release at affected sites. It was done where I used to work.

I think I got a bit confused. I am old according to some people on here! I thought the comment about poisoning trees was written by the OP at first.

Don't kill other people's trees. Contact the owner and ask them to cut them back on your side or do it yourself. Christ

Female and single too?

This is making my palms sweat. You can't put a price on safety and quality of life. It's not worth it pal. One wrong move and it's all over. Don't be an idiot. The picture of someone climbing up a tree with a bowsaw in a motorbike suit is almost funny, if it wasn't such a scary thought. It'll cost the NHS (and therefore us) a lot more than £1300 for your treatment.

I agree with everyone saying it's about good technique, fitness and methodical working. I am nearly 35 and have just started climbing full time after learning about 6 yrs ago and climbing sporadically. The better I get at climbing, the easier it becomes. If you lean out at awkward angles and haul yourself up in inefficient ways, you will put strain on your body. There are a lot of climbers, but not a lot of really good ones. I know people in their 60s who still climb. Technique and efficiency is perhaps underrated? There are a lot of people that say it is a young man's game and by the time your in your 30s, you're too old... Blx, they are just quitters and probably were always bad climbers 😜

SPAM ATTACK!

Aye, this is the one. Stuck with me that did

I think there is merit in looking at the inertia brake on top handled saws. I read an article written by someone about his son years ago, who had cut into his neck using a top handled in a tree and died. The inertia brake didn't engage when the saw kicked back. I have tried to engage the inertia brake on a 201 when turned off by shaking the saw and it's impossible to get it to engage. This is how I test the inertia brake on a rear handled saw because I don't like dropping it down onto it's nose on a log, like my trainer showed me. I keep it all clean inside, the mech has a tendency to clog up. I can't recall a time I've had the 201 kickback and the chain brake engage, thinking about it and I've been doing it a good few years now. Kickback happens less with these saws because of the chain profile and you obviously want to avoid it when in a tree especially. I don't trust that the inertia brake would work every time if one of these saws kicked back. It's partly to do with how short the saw is and leverage. There's also apparently no legislation for how much it takes to engage this mechanism. Maybe a mechanical, rather than electrical fix, but worth looking into as a safety issue IMO.