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Heavy Oil Saw

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Everything posted by Heavy Oil Saw

  1. @Toad Sorry, I meant in your original equation “distance between drive links x no. Of teeth x engine speed/60”. You’ve divided by 60 at the end of multiplying, where did the 60 come from?
  2. Where did you get the 60 from? I ain’t much use at maths, so not questioning your method, just curious.
  3. @Treerover not sure if your still looking, but came across this cylinder
  4. Thinking of getting a cheap test kit with the adaptors, keep the press/vac device as a “spare” and rigging tube from the adaptor to my Mityvac. Keep the cylinder at BDC or there abouts, leaving the ports open to the crank case, that’s my unprofessional opinion on how to prez test the crank seals and gasket. Having a mare separating the air filter bassel from the carb. I’ve rammed a 8mm socket down it, but it’s a pain to locate the nut and turn, boo boo me [emoji23]. Being lazy and tight I don’t want to turn down a nice socket. Is there a cheapo socket prime for the job or just jab a rotating drill bit down it so my nice sockets fit? What do the small engine men do? Sorry about the stupid questions, my large engine brain can’t compute if a 6ft pry bar isn’t to be used.
  5. Fair one, leaves too much to chance. I was just curious. For leak testing, hopefully I can rig up my Mityvac to perform such a task, only used it on EGRs and the like.
  6. @spudulike These days I prefer being in my shed, waking up with a hangover and not knowing where you are, ain’t been my cup of tea for a while. It certainly is cheaper, and I’m a Northerner, so appeals to me greatly [emoji23]. Think I’ll use a Stihl clutch bearing, and see where it gets me. I was also wondering, can you port jugs by themselves, as in just receive the jug with no saw? Obviously you couldn’t tune it the saw, I know that much.
  7. I’d be asking myself, do I want to deal with a company like this in the future?
  8. What isn’t? I wanted to build an A or A+ Series engine, those ain’t cheap parts and all on exchange as well, well main bits like heads, cranks and that, but new house, things to do, and this is the compromise at the moment. My wife likes me doing stuff like this, shows I don’t just talk myself up about what I’ve done and do at work [emoji23].
  9. Here’s one for a piston for a bit less, but still genuine STIHL Piston Rings Kit BR600 BR700 BR550 BR500 50mm 4282 030 2003 WWW.EBAY.CO.UK 2 PISTON RINGS. 1 PISTON PIN.
  10. I can only find them in America.
  11. @lofty123 These were second hand parts, they’ve all been parts washed, vigorously, hence the clean looking appearance.
  12. I was just wondering, as I’d seen that some parts were interchangeable. I’ve got a crank, so I’ll just run it. Saving for the tools to split the case, and remove/fit crank. Already fitted the bearings, missus was out, and the kids ain’t grassed me up, yet. Bought the bearing tool, and the seal fitting tools are on their way.
  13. @spudulike Question is, will another crank fit? For example 271 (not a clamshell case, I think).
  14. I like to check things over before use and clean and check after use. Not always possible for most people, and if it works when you put it away, it should work when it comes out again. I’ll keep an eye on that area in particular. I’m used to checking turbo compressor and turbine bearings, and they can have the tiniest of movement and quite fiddly.
  15. I’ll just have to see. I’m just building the saw, not sure where I’ll run it yet, so I’m not all that worried as it won’t be my bread and butter if it fails.
  16. Cheers@Bob_z_l, I’ll keep this in mind, glad to hear you’ve had no problems with your saw. My problem now is, is it the crank, case or clutch part that was wrong? Got an m-tronic crank, two cases one m-tronic damaged and one clean unknown 261 case, the clutch assy will be all new. It doesn’t really matter, I’ll build it and run what I brung. I know what your saying@doobin, but I’ll heed any advice. Stihl went wrong somewhere, and a answer was never brought forward.
  17. I’ve read from all different forums, including this one, most posts were made a few years ago, as the saws were newish. As there wasn’t anything recent, I’m trying to find out if the problem was ever pin pointed (by a Stihl dealer or small engine mechanic). Once a problem arises complaints and questions galore, loads of speculation, then sometimes a solution arises, but I just couldn’t find it, even with the mighty google. Another theory I found was a batch of cranks weren’t surface hardened properly, leaving them susceptible to wear. Looks like we’ll never know, as Stihl weren’t forthcoming with a statement. Thank you for all your help though, it is appreciated.
  18. Another one I read was that the bearing housings weren’t cast true in the casings, causing the crank to run out of harmonic balance as such, trashing the clutch bearing and in the process the crank end. Wish Stihl just came out with it. I never over lube, or try not to, big waste as most lube in any application gets thrown out, and splatters everywhere.
  19. I got a cheap Chinese carb off fleabay an MS171, the main butterfly doesn’t open properly compared to the OEM. This was the cheapest I could find, as I was interested. Side by side, then the Chinese copy, and finally OEM. I hope yours is better than mine. Gonna hurt mine with a dremel. I’m looking forward to seeing how your project goes, here’s mine. Ignore the 3 in 1, that isn’t what I run in a chainsaw.
  20. Thanks Spud. I started to get bits for MS261, then read about the crank problems, but had started a slippery slope, so looked for remedies, and changing over the drum and to a metal caged bearing, with greasing was a possible remedy I’d try. Ended up with a parts MS261, had the carb adjust top cover, took it off and low and behold it was a MS261c (m-tronic). Anyway, it was all confusing, as loads of threads said the MS261 was a strong saw, no problems, all that good stuff, no one really ever mentions if it’s adjustable carb or m-tronic 261 they have, and found confusion with the suffix ‘C’, does that describe m-tronic saws only? Stihl don’t make it easy. I measured the crank quite a few times, at different places on different planes/axis’s. My micrometer is cheap, but always tells me the measurement I want [emoji23].
  21. Any luck with this?
  22. Thanks Stubby, I’ll get hold of a welded type clutch drum. Hoping the newer Stihl cages are up to scratch, and non of that original stock is floating about, I buy most of my unusual/small bits from L&S.
  23. Reading around I’ve noticed 261s have a little crank problem of wearing away. 10mm it should measure and it does, so I think I’m good there. Two fixes I’ve come across are changing the clutch drum, but I’m at a loss to which type, the interchangeable type drum or the fixed type. Which one was fitted to alleviate the problem? Also, greasing the clutch bearing, that ain’t a problem, but what’s the dealio with the full metal jacket type of bearing, the ones from China. I’d of thought that would increase wear. (I know the bearing only comes in to play on idle). There’s no year on the saw, as it’s a fleabay special and definitely no warranty, so any advice is welcome, and please correct me if I’m wrong on my assumptions.
  24. Staithes further north by a few miles have great fish n chips. Not been back to Whitby in a longtime, so can’t comment about the place. Great for a visit, everyone else says so [emoji23].
  25. Had to state whale bone, otherwise Transylvania [emoji23]

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