Fatboy2017

Another alternative you could try (nothing to lose) is, if I'm not mistaken, the area behind the pin boss is behind the exhaust, you could drill it through, clean up / level the area where it has sheared off, use a stud with a small shoulder, with a thread on one end, drill out the centre of the other end of the stud with clearance to take the pin, there is not much load on it, the original area must have had too much clearance on the pin , so loose, causing it to move back and forth ending in failure, cost very little if you do it yourself and if it doesn't work then you fit new case.

Another thing you can do to satisfy yourself is to have a look at the fuel, I suppose you still have some? Tip it into a glass container from the can or whatever you keep it in, do not shake it, just dispense it and leave it a while, check the colour first and you could see water separating out and fuel goes cloudy as it goes off, plus smell it, stale fuel smells! If you cannot see anything obvious you can get it tested, but it costs of course! This may help with your self doubt or confirm it's the fuel or not.

To save yourself some money, get the saw back, post some pictures of the cylinder scoring on here, most of the time you can clean up the ally transfer off the cylinder and fit a new piston and rings, just find a local reliable saw repairer close to you to do the job, should not be too expensive. It helps if you list the area where you are.

If you google Senix 4 stroke chainsaw forums, you find a lot of interesting info

Another option, use Esso Supreme 99+, in most Southern areas it comes from the Esso refinery in Southampton and is ethanol free, you have to check depending where you are exactly. Each station knows where the fuel comes from, in my area it's not available ex Southampton it comes from Stanlow refinery which doesn't do the ethanol free, it's E5. It says on all pumps it states E5 but this is a max, so 0 is their option, but only Southampton supplied fuel, as I travel I pick it up when I'm out and about. I use it and stuff runs great on it, and of course with no ethanol it doesn't go off, I use it with Husky XP 2 stroke and just to be belt and braces a bit of stabilizer. Half the cost of Aspen etc

Try one of these, for that price it's worth a go, usually no guts in them! Exhaust Muffler Ported Bracket Gasket Kit For Husqvarna 365 371 372 385 390XP WWW.EBAY.CO.UK For Husqvarna 365 371 372 385 390XP Jonsered 2063 2065 2094 2095 2166 2171 2172 2071 2165 2186 Chainsaws Parts. Quantity received:1 x Exhaust Muffler, 1 x Muffler Bracket, 1 x...

Depending on what part of the UK you're in, you can use Esso premium 99 supreme, it is ethanol free unless you're in the North West, if the fuel comes from the Esso refinery in Southampton then it's ethanol free (it says 5% on the pump but zero means up to 5%) to satisfy the greens. My stuff runs very well on it as well. I use Husky fully syn XP oil, which has stabilizer in it as well.

Re: Irish Republic, don't forget that it will be much easier and a lot less effort on behalf of the manufacturer to export to S. Ireland since Brexit, straight forward no customs or duties etc and no complicated multi page declarations etc, it's a no brainer if they have orders, ship them with no hassle!!

We all need an excuse for dragging out the 2100, we sometimes don't need to, but want to!

The Stihl catcher goes straight on, see photos. Bob

I will check tomorrow afternoon to 100% check it will fit, I'm sure it will

I got it wrong, I have a Husky roller chain catcher on my 2100, I have a Stihl one but not got round to fitting it yet. As you can see on the photo the Husky one is a little short although it will help.

I use a Stihl type roller chain catcher fitted on the spike, longer than the Husqvarna type and available cheap on the Bay if it's the earlier type of 2100 Yes, exactly, If I get finished handy tomorrow, I will take a picture of mine fitted and post it

I use a Stihl type roller chain catcher fitted on the spike, longer than the Husqvarna type and available cheap on the Bay if it's the earlier type of 2100

I got one of these to try, so far been trouble free and refreshes quite quickly, easy to work and has replaceable battery, don't use every day, probably weekly, at the price, give it a go, not much to lose! Wire Inductive Tachometer Tach Hour Meter RPM Digital For 2/4 Stroke Engine DIY WWW.EBAY.CO.UK ①After installing, press the S1 and S2 button together, the screen will start displaying 00000 99999, 2s later, the screen...

Try heat shrink, available in adhesive or without, put whatever you think on first on handle ( rubber hose etc) then choose heat shrink that fits over easily and heat with a heat gun or hair drier, available from electrical suppliers

The Greek, dandrikop on ebay usually has pistons, Meteor, good guy to deal with.

There was a Makita advertised on ebay as a DCS 6400 with a shot piston and cyl, unfortunately it was not a 6400 but a 6000 or 6800, went for £77 with a none functioning brake band, so gives you an idea of what people pay!

The 133 parts will interchange with your 123, if cheap enough buy it anyway!!

In case you are in a rush to know I jumped in before Gary had chance to reply! That saw will be a 6100 Dolmar, great saw and a good price, Makita EA6100 is the equivalent. I've had one since 2014, done quite a lot of work, no problems, cuts really well and well balanced. Try @shavey on here AJS axes and saws, he will get you a good deal and a great guy to deal with as well!!

Very simple thing to do on those if you didn't already know is disconnect the lead to points form stop switch, remove coil and fit a coil from say a 6800, this is the stand alone type, no need for trigger, it's in the coil! connect the cut of wire from the switch and away to go, straight swap does away with points and runs better. I have used many cheap Chinese coils for this swap, only because of cost and as yet no problems with any. Points are ok, but prefer hassle free coil set up. Let me know if you need a link. Nice looking 112 by the way😉

Thanks for all your suggestions, I'll give them all a go and see (except Stubby's vomit suggestion, think i'll give that one a miss🥵)

Thanks for that, I'll pick some up and give it a go😬

I tried the search but couldn't find anything, what do you suggest to remove dried baked on sap off chainsaws? Spud I think wrote about this but it was a while ago

It's a neighbours saw ( not here in UK but next to my house abroad, when I asked him what oil he used he said - dunno! green stuff!! whatever's the cheapest!!! I suspect carbon has built up on piston crown and cyl then when I changed the plug, cleaned filter etc, it gave it a new lease of life for as long as it lasted till the extra grunt and revs dropped the carbon off which I suspect was cause of piston failure. He looks after my place when I'm not there so I owe him, but I think I'm going to have a job on my hands to get him to convert to syn oil after it lasting 18 yrs running on that cheap crap. In credit to the saw, fan housing and cyl and clutch cover were all crammed full of wood oil and crap, surprised it was still running. He will have to wait now as I'm back in the UK now so I will try to find him a solution, which does not include him using my saws which I have over there - a Dolmar 115i and a Dolmar 6100!! I've got some cutting and cleaning up myself to do when I go back in November ( covid restrictions allowing of course) A hectare of woodland a a few very unstable walnut tree in my garden,( very close to the house and electric wires and has a hole right deep inside, hopefully if they have been marked by then!!