Treetom15
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Everything posted by Treetom15
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GRCS is well out of my budget unfortunately ? hence looking at the rc3001-has anyone used this setup compared to a GRCS?
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That was my thought, the likelihood of needing the winching capabilities are fairly low I guess
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I’m looking at getting myself a decent rigging setup, the place I work at has their own but as I’m looking further into going self employed I decided it’s the next logical thing I need. Just looking for pros/cons to what bollards people here have used- I’ve used the Stein rc2001 and a couple of other very similar fixed bollards (no interest in portawraps, hate the things!). Slightly torn between buying the RC 2001 or the RCW 3001, as I don’t want to buy twice and I like the idea of having the option to use the winch with the 3001? Cheers!
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It isn’t always quicker (well, it mostly is) but the main benefit I feel is the lack of fatigue over a long days/weeks climbing. You can keep climbing without being knackered meaning you’re able to concentrate more on what you’re actually doing, meaning less of those “that’ll do” sort of cuts ? definitely worth persevering with, massively beneficial in the long run!
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I was made aware of issues with base anchoring for a rescue a little while ago (by someone who knows a lot more than me!) The main point made, was that unfortunately if you need rescuing and you are completely unable to self rescue, then there’s a high chance you’ve been working and you’re stropped in-meaning even if you can lower someone down they won’t move far at all. Also, if your anchor is on fairly small stuff, having it base tied puts more force on your anchor as you’ve essentially put a 2:1 over it, making it more likely to fail. Personally I think if the tree or work requires it the safest thing to do is tie a rescue line in, takes seconds and means someone can be with you instantly. Plus a base anchor with people working around it or lumps of wood coming down makes me feel very uneasy!
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Luckily I got to try them side by side- I’ve got the “older” ZZ and I run that with a rope wrench with an alloy tether, so it was good to compare that to the new ZZ/chicane combo. As much as it didn’t want to like it (ripping off Kevin Bingham and all) it was a bloody good setup, less friction ascending and very smooth and controlled on decent. Will definitely be investing myself
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I’m sorry if this has been covered before- basically I’m looking for info regarding insurance to cover me for weekend work. I’m employed full time by a company but I need my own cover for doing my own jobs on the weekend, I had my own cover when I was self employed about 3 years ago but I’m unsure whether you can get insurance that’s more specific to just working 2 days a week (sat/Sunday) and if you can who do people recommend? Any help much appreciated!
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Tried a friends chicane & ZZ yesterday, by far the smoothest and most controlled setup I’ve used
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I’ve been using a 562xp with my old company for about 6 months, sounds like its a better choice than a 362. Not looking to run a 24” bar regularly, just for the odd job that needs it
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As the title suggests, I’m in the market for a new saw. I’ve narrowed it down to these two, fairly similar price and weight. Ideally I’d like something that I can run a 24” bar on for larger trees and climbing work without lugging a big heavy saw around. Anyone got experience of running the two side by side or any pros/cons?
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Cheers Adam, I’ve currently got the drenaline which feels brilliant but doesn’t seem to be as hard wearing as I’d hoped. The Marlow looks like a good choice, especially with the low stretch?
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In the market for a new rope, the company I’m working for is replacing my kit so it’s worth going for a decent one! I climb pretty much 50/50 srt/ddrt so I need something that’s going to be a decent all round rope. Ideally 50m long so it’s a good length for either, something not too bouncy and 11.7mm or less? I climb on a zigzag for both with/without a wrench tether
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Thanks very much Spud, I thought non gen parts were not a good idea (having just forked out for rebuilding a 200t with genuine parts) but thought the question was worth asking as they are so much cheaper! Unfortunately at £200 for a hen stihl crankshaft it’s almost more than the saw is worth, it’s fairly tired anyway so I thought if it was a cheap fix it’s worth a go.
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I’m looking into replacing a crankshaft on an older (2010) ms261 due to the usual excessive bearing wear. I’ve found the genuine ones for sale around £200ish online, but I also found a non genuine kit on eBay for £75ish, has anyone got any experience of the non-gen cranks-are they a waste of money etc? This is the kit I’ve seen-https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Warehouse-Gasket-Set-Crankshaft-Suitable-for-Chainsaw-Stihl-Ms-261-Gasket-Set/123591334344?hash=item1cc69e19c8:g:C4gAAOSwFAtcOb8b
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Good to know! I’ve heard srt is already twice as dangerous as ddrt anyway so it sounds like the odds are well against me!?
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Sorry if this has already come up, but both the Petzl website and treestuff’s website are saying that you can use the chicane with all models of ZZ? In that case does that rate the older ZZ for srt use?
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Apparently it is going to be ce marked, but it isn’t yet. Something along the lines of being “in the process” of applying?
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Does anyone know of/run any climbing competitions in or around Shropshire/mid wales area? Having never done a comp before I’ve no idea where to start looking, they look like great fun and a good way to improve. Sorry if this has been covered before!
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Makes you much more confident in that tiny piece of metal holding you way up in the air ?
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Re the swivel breaking, there was a video on here of a chap (Patrick Brandt) doing a stress test on a mk3 ZZ, with his Zag wrench tether. He tested the ZZ to destruction in a Ddrt setup and the failure was on the metal housing AROUND the swivel, it’s an interesting watch if you’ve got half an hour free ?
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All the parts on the new ZZ that I personally would worry about failing when used for srt (links, swivel etc) look the same on both models. Apart from the body being much more bulky, I fail to see how it’s stronger than the old model? Personally would much rather stick with the old version ?
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Really hope this chap is ok ? Any idea who the company they were working for is? A comment on the Facebook post hinted at “a company known for lack of training and safety”, without knowing better it sounds similar to the video of the IDverde lads felling that large pop with no road closure? Best wishes the climber, no one deserves that.
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Reguarding the Salewa and the La Sportiva boots, how do they hold up as regular walking boots? Both look like a good option for reccy climbing but I couldn’t justify that sort of money if they weren’t up to much for hiking/mountain walking. Comfort and durability mostly
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I had a ligament replaced in my left knee (MPFL reconstruction) in March last year, so I intentionally got a left footed ascender to help strengthen my knee after physio etc. I get slight pain every now and again but similar to spending a day on spikes, the more you use it (with good technique) you’ll get much more comfortable with it ?
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Seen this after a post about the breaking strains on a zz/wrench combo. https://www.tree-minded.com/p/tether.html?m=1 looks similar the the Reon Rounds tether but at $74 it’s over $100 cheaper, anyone on here have any experience of using one?
