JonnyRFT

Out on another airspade/root protection job today to expose a pipe for repair, running through a group of Blue Atlas root plates. Been using these slave units hooked up to a 32t chassis VacEx to remove the spoil to keep the weight down. Impressive things but a gruelling job. Luckily, weather was nice.

NHBC guidelines should consider the ultimate height of the tree and its zone of influence. The foundations of the garage to be constructed should be to the required specification based on the above-mentioned factors. If the root barrier is solid and linear to protect the garage, you may run the risk of roots girdling somewhere between 2-3m within one quadrant of the root plate. For a mature tree, it would be like having a wine glass with just under half of its base missing. Personally, Id allow the roots to deflect around the garage foundations. If the foundations are deep enough, then there should be no significant movement of the building, even in shrinkable soils.

Got a 404 Error on the booking link.

Yes, tree consultancy and root exploration mainly.

I run a few businesses while working full time. I’m predominantly an employed consultant most of the time, but on the side I run a small outfit with the Avant even though that’s pretty much been knocked on the head now. I also own a farm which works with charities and schools around animal centred wellbeing. I also do caravan collections/deliveries and other towing jobs with my truck. I have just set up another consultancy business to mop up some more local domestic work. None of my businesses brings in work everyday on their own, but collectively keeps me busy.

Professional arboricultural consultant. Email: [email protected] Website: www.rootedsolutions.co.uk

It depends on soil structure and foundation depths. If you’re worried about the roots physically damaging the foundations, then I wouldn’t worry too much as they’ll most likely to deflect when they reach a hard surface. Only if there is a pre-existing crack with a source of moisture, will they exploit it. I’d check SoilScapes for a general idea of your soil structure, and then refer to the table of figures relating to the tree’s zone of influence within the relevant section of NHBC guidance (I think it’s 4.2 from memory). If the soil is clay, then there may be some subterranean movement, however, it doesn’t automatically mean it will damage the property. If you have no issue with the property so far, considering the overall size of the tree, then I would be confident that you won’t see many (if any) issues. In terms of robustness, as mentioned, there are prone to failure under load (snow, wind etc)

Do it!!! Now my starter culture is a lot stronger, I find that I can cut a few corners without spoiling the loaf. At first I had make levain and autolyse and get the hydration ratios just right. However, I can cut those steps out now and I just pour in un-fed discarded starter into the flour and water and I’m still getting the same results providing I’m leaving the dough to proof overnight as it takes longer to rise.

I hadn’t thought about using coffee grinder, but it makes sense. I take it, it works well to grind into flour?

I’ve joined a Sourdough forum so I can get mid-life crisis out of the way early, and I’ve seen people who mill their own flour. Certainly seems like a lot of effort but apparently the quality of the bread is incredible. I’ve just signed a long lease for 4 acres of land where I’m starting a permaculture farm in the new year and I will definitely be growing my own wheat to try it out.

I’ve been rumbled

Funny you should say that… Here’s the front of my house

I’ve recently been into making Sourdough bread. It’s surprisingly fun and addictive. I’m supplying my neighbours with all the excess loaves while I’m practicing. I got a little jar of Starter Culture from work as an early Christmas present. It’s one of those gifts in which I was going to give it a undignified death in the back corner of my fridge. However, I thought I’d give it go and make some bread. I was awful. Which I think spurred me on to make better loaves. I’m getting pretty consistent in making light, fluffy, well risen examples which I’m pretty proud of. I don’t know what has happened to me…

Measure the stem just below the union. Doesn’t always have to be 1.4m from gl if there’s a stem to measure.

Twistedhicap has covered most of it. The vapour barrier is the most important thing though. Also, If you end up using a glue adhesive, I recommend the following…it’s awesome. Sikaflex®-291i | Interior Sealing GBR.SIKA.COM Sikaflex®-291i is a non-sag 1-component polyurethane sealant specifically developed for the...

The company I’m with at the moment did a lot of the preliminary Eco and Arb surveys prior for large housing developments. I was involved with quite a few when I first started. Interestingly, only single dwellings/developments seem to come through. I hadn’t given it much thought until I read this post. We mainly focus on large scale utilities now.

A survey with camera footage should be the first thing you would need to see. If it’s roots ingress, it’ll likely be the finer roots that can be blasted away by high pressure water. The pipe can then be internally sleeved, in situ, without any excavation whatsoever. Also, root ingress normally occurs to already damaged pipes.

Back when I was working with a housing association, we covered a 100 mile radius. They had a lot of land in Norfolk, Suffolk, Essex, Cambs, Huntingdonshire and Bedfordshire. Most of the work was often over 50 miles away. Now, I’ve moved on from physical tree work and concentrated my efforts in consultancy. There seems to be only a handful of Arboriculturists (from what I’m noticing) compared to what work is out there. I’m now travelling all over East Anglia and a bit further West and North, working on behalf of large utility companies and only a handful of domestic clients. I live in Norwich, so everything is miles away for me. I’d kill to have all my work within a 10 mile radius.

I had a large Oak down in Framlingham with AOD, in a similar overall condition. However, by pairing the stem bleeds with the exit holes, it was an almost certain diagnosis. If there’s nothing of the sort in your case, then I would be looking for root dysfunction. What size was the RPA? Is there any scars in the ground within it, to suggest trenching, compaction or such like has occurred? As suggested above, soil level changes could be the culprit too.

Any stem bleeds and/or exit holes? Perhaps AOD?

Please do not tip leafy woodchip onto clean woodchip piles or vice versa. Keep rakings in their own pile, ensuring only organic material is tipped. Hard and softwood logs can be tipped and mixed together. Please only drive over the north edge of the field. Please be aware that the access lane is bumpy. Low vehicles and low-loader trailers may struggle. Please call for directions and permission to enter the land.

The tiktok guy who posted lives in Melton Mowbray, so probably around there.

I’ll be there on the Friday.