Ratman

There was a thread a good while back (few years possibly) where a lad was having issues with chains snapping when he was doing some milling. He’d swapped to a 3/8 low pro set up (bar and chain) on his 660 or 661, sure if memory serves that he put it down to the sprocket being at fault. The standard 3/8 sprocket differs from a 3/8 low pro sprocket ??? 🤷‍♂️ Not 100% sure as it was a good while ago, pretty sure he went to RobD at chainsawbars for some help. Maybe @RobD would know/remember possibly?

I’d of thought that would be easier to sort than if it was above someones living quarters, theres minimal risk of anything happening / going wrong if its above an alley way. Good luck with it 👍

Would a indemnity insurance not cover you on this during initial purchase with searches / fees etc that solicitors sort?

😂😂😂 my thoughts too! Minus his bike though!

You tried ringing gardner denver directly? We deal with them at Bradford for our tornado blowers, always very helpful for us. 01274 718100

I’ve just tried searching for a documentary on it but drawn a blank other than a few bits on youtube, sounds interesting

Yeah i fit one of the more rugged looking orange modern plug and socket. The initial advert from them when i was buying the splitter said they can be run on a traditional 13amp plug at home. This to me was brilliant, a good output splitter run off a standard mains socket, whats not to like. Did a bit more digging and ended up ringing them to place the order, very helpful lot, all good to deal with etc, the lass on the phone just said at the end of the conversation, if your going to use an extension lead to run it off then use a good heavy duty one, so made up the 25m lead as it was a spare anyhow.

Run my rock splitter off a 25m 16amp caravan extension cable with the round 3pin sockets replaced for standard 13amp plug and socket, just uprated the circuit breaker at my consumer unit from a standard A rated breaker to a C rated breaker to stop it tripping due to initial load on start up. Not had any issues and in its fourth year of use now.

Had cracked heads too on the kubota’s but not often, start with your possible injector issues first if need be, if you can’t get injectors out and head needs to come off then your local head engineer will confirm after facing/skimming/pressure testing is carried out if head is cracked

Pic of OP’s cylinder, i think it should clean up, fresh piston and rings etc check as Spud suggests and should be good to go.

If oil level is still max or below then just doing the seal should be fine, just inspect the pulley for being cracked, can be hard to see sometimes but like i say not unheard of. Get him to reset valve clearances too, an odd tight valve clearance, usually on inlet valve can cause injector dribble, noticeable on start up with exhaust smoking but will clear within a minute once cylinders reach temp. If level is over max then you may have a possible injector issue.

Reading your first post again, are you saying there is more oil than normal according to the level on the dipstick? i.e its reading over max. Or, are you suggesting that because the front seal is leaking you would expect a lot lower oil reading on the dipstick? even if the crank seal is passing and forming a pool it won’t give a significant oil level drop for a good while, oil leaks always look and suggest worse than they are at first. if your oil level is above max then it could suggest an injector issue which is not unheard of on kubota’s. They can be a nightmare to get out sometimes which can result in head off and a send away job. They are pretty bomb proof regards cranks, big ends, mains etc unless they have done colossal hours of work, even with bad maintenance and lack of oil changes in my experience. In which case i’d just sort the head and injectors and not bother with a full overhaul. If it has done colossal hours etc then its up to you regards cost of doing a full overhaul against the age of machine and other ware and tare items that go with it.

I’ve had cracked pulleys on kubota’s before, yanmah’s too causing seals/oil leak issues, have changed seals in situ where accessible

Yes, as per Stubby’s abbreviation in his earlier reply “cush drive” meaning cushion drive, dampens the forces when torque/drive are applied.

Running a Rock Machinery 12T electric splitter at home for noise reasons more than anything, keep the neighbours happy and draw less attention etc, in to its 3rd year of use now, no issues, good tool up to now 👍

Have a word with a local haulage repair place that runs arctic tip trailers, see if they have any old teflon body liners/ sheets knocking about, to them they will be knackered/thin, to you they’ll last you ages if not forever, cut to your specs and fit em yaself.

Post some pics, gives people a better idea of whats going on / possible to do 👍

Have you checked the clutch side?

Position wise option 2, central to the room then, knock out the chimney breast upwards and reinstate a fresh lintel higher up, then rest is just a standard install to your tastes/requirements. i.e liner down chimney for top or rear connection, which ever you want, then do your breast and inset to whats your intended design, job done.

Does that part resemble a likeness to your setup? If so can you get at it with your setup to make it operate and see if its doing its job as it should? Hard to say when your not physically sat looking at your setup.