Arboraeration

These are not specific to your chipper, more just general troubleshooting: Have you tried swapping the coils over on the solenoids to rule out a faulty coil? The wiring to the solenoids looks new, are they wired correctly? Does the motor have a case drain? Has this become blocked?

Only just seen this thread, we have completed radar surveys for morgage approvals before, but the reality is it is usually pretty obvious if there will or wont be roots present. The radar wont be able to tell you what trees the roots come from so if there are a lot of trees or shrubs on site it will only show you that roots are present. However as you say, just because there are roots present, it doesnt mean that they will be causing damage to foundations etc. I assume the morgage company doesnt reccomend that trial pits are dug to assess the depth and quality of foundations as this is usually the biggest issue!

As others have said if you are determined to see this through then its going to be down to you to put in the leg work to prove to the council that installing the drop kerb is not going to cause damage to the trees. I would say that it is extremely unlikely that they will change their decision, just because having a drop kerb will make you life easier. I think your first step is to employ a professional arboricultural consultant to continue the application on your behalf. Yes this costs money but they are dealing with these sort of applications on a daily basis. The second thing that you/the consultant will need to do is to find a way to prove that by installing a drop kerb there will be no/minimal damage to the trees. To do this they will need to understand where the trees are rooting and the only way to do this is to have a look. Either physical excavation with an airspade or using a ground penetrating radar system. In this situation the airspade is going to be expensive and cause a mountain of paperwork because you need permits to excavate the pavement/road that is owned by the council, it then has to be reinstated by one of their contractors while your application is being processed. A ground penetrating radar or Tree Radar Survey will still not be cheap, however it can be completed without permits or even permission from the council as there is no damage to the roadway. There is still a chance that after all of the above the trees are mostly rooting within that area you want to excavate, and permission is still not granted. However you will at least know for certain rather than guessing.

You will need a PRV if the machine pressure is too high, you either need to compare the specs of both to work it out or test the machine using a pressure tester If the flow is too much (thats what it sounds like) then you will need a flow reducing valve installed, you can the adjust this to suit

Its sort of hard to see from your picture but usually the saw motor and the ram that pushes the bar out are linked. So you would usually have a flow and return and case drain going into the saw motor and ram unit. Certainly this is the case on the intermacarto tiger cuts and the mecanil grapple saws I have been involved with. A tap is all or nothing, you will need something like this from memory. "Hydraulic 3 Way Flow Control Valve With Excess To Tank, RFP3 3/8 | Flow Control & Flow Divider Valves | Hydraulic Valves" WWW.FLOWFITONLINE.COM "Hydraulic 3 Way Flow Control Valve With Excess To Tank, RFP3 3/8 from our range of Flow Control & Flow Divider Valves... The 3rd port on this takes the excess flow back to the tank, this could be fed into the return line but probably better to go back to tank if possible. I have a feeling that I also had a larger diameter return like from the saw motor than feed. For longevity of the saw motor you will also want a case drain that returns freely to tank

I have only just seen this thread so it may already be too late. What about root pruning the roots that will be planed back and installing a membrane of CuTex root barrier horizontally below the tarmac. According to the company its copper layer within the material inhibits root growth. Im not sure what other options you have really

We go the full depth of the hole where possible, usually 60cm. Width wise we try to excavate a 30cm hole for the posts to be concreted straight into, that way there is no extra digging by the fencing crews. We start at the ideal post location and move to the left or right until we find a suitable root free area for the posts. Sometimes this works great and other times, you end up with a long looking trench of varying depth till you find a suitable place.

We have completed a number of jobs like this where we airpade the post holes to find clear space for the post to be concreted in. Obviouly it works much better with closeboard fencing as you have some adjustment either side to find a clear path

We have had a busy few weeks with both Root Radar surveys and Airspade investigation works, and a combination of both. I will be trying to keep this post updated as and when with results that are interesting or unusual. Below are a few images from a recent Root Radar Survey that was completed. The tree in question, a sycamore on the edge of a small wooded area with an existing tarmac driveway running along the left had side of the tree. from the results you can clearly see where the roots enter the driveway they immediately branch into a mass of much smaller and fibrous roots.

Validity Now the question that has come up a few times in conversation whilst discussing the unit is how can you prove it? Obviously the results look very good on the computer showing that there are roots in X or Y location. However we decided early on that if we really wanted to promote this as a services we needed to be certain of the accuracy and validity of the results. So we scanned some roots and dug some holes with the airspade, below are a few photos We are planning, once Covid restrictions are over, to undertake a few demo days around the country where we scan some trees and airspade some trenches along the scan lines to prove the results to Tree officers/Planners/ Arb Consultants etc.

Thanks for the replies As Toad has said utilities can be picked up however for our purposes they are only identified in the analysis stage to be filtered out so they are not interpreted as roots. There are specific GPR systems that are for utilities that are set up slightly differently, usually without the recording functions and are used in a similar way to a CAT and Genny. Metal pipes, and electrical cable show up much brighter than plastic.

Well, after over a year of planning, training, and shipping complications due to the COVID19 pandemic, we finally have our Tree Radar Unit out working in the UK. I am going to use this thread as a place for people to ask questions about the unit, show some pictures of the type of work we do with it and the results, and hopefully convert a few non-believers!! To start us off, firstly, I am going to explain how the unit works and showcase some of the results we are able to achieve with the unit! Secondly, I will describe the differences between our model and other units that have been trialled and used in the UK. The Tree Radar Unit itself is produced by a company based in the USA and they have been developing the unit since the early 2000's. The unit comprises of a Radar Antenna that can be affixed to a cart or used freehand in tight spaces, a data logger and a tablet to interpret the results. The antenna sends out radio waves that detects root locations and sizes. The Tree Radar Unit ™ sporting aftermarket Dunlop rain protection device Once collected, the raw data is uploaded onto the TBA Roots software and analysed. This process is all completed manually relying on our training and experience using both the software and knowledge of the root systems of trees. The files are then merged and used to create the graphics below! Virtual Trench The Virtual Trench graphic displays the results in the same way as if a trench had been excavated through the soil, displaying root locations and depths. The horizontal lines are used to mark different depths of the soil for further analysis. Root Morphology Map The Root Morphology Map sets out a 2D computer generated image of the tree's root system. This can be overlaid in CAD drawings, plans and topographical surveys to allow planners to visualise the root system. How does this system differ from earlier versions and others that are in use in the UK? During initial testing in the mid 2000’s, there were a number of trials in the UK of the first version of the unit. Since then, there have been a numerous changes to the unit and the software to make it much more reliable and accurate. Currently, the Tree Radar Unit is available in two antenna versions; 900mhz and 400mhz. We operate a 900mhz unit, whereas all of the other units in the UK are 400mhz. The difference in these frequencies has a direct correlation between depth and sensitivity. The 400mhz unit may be able penetrate up to 3m depth, however, it can lack clarity and can struggle to detect smaller roots and roots which are closer to the surface. The 900mhz antenna, on the other hand, scans to 1.2m depth, but gives far more accurate results within this depth range allowing for clearer and more detailed diagrams, and ultimately, a more satisfied customer. Hopefully, the above has given you some insight into how our unit works, and stay tuned over the next few days for images of the jobs we have worked on so far, and the results! Any questions, fire away!

It is generally accepted now that reductions do not reduce the root spread, do you have any pictures of the site in question? Is there the option to root prune and install a root barrier to protect the wall?

This may come across as an advert, but thats not the way it is intended. I just want people to think of all of the avaliable options and to realise that cutting branches off trees isnt the only option when it comes to managing them, especially in the long term. Instead of reducing the tree, and making lots of wounds all over the crown, weakening the trees health system and reducing its ability to photosynthesize. In turn reducing the ability to defend from pests and diseases. Why not look into deep root de-compaction followed by mulching the base of the tree with a good mix of compost and biochar. Applications of biochar have been shown to help reduce the infection rate of dieback on ash trees and the de-compaction and mulching will only improve the soil and rooting conditions.

Thanks for the replies, client has sourced his own for now