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bens

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  1. The vibration is triaxial and can be measured using an accelerometer You can also get tool tags which you stick on the tool then plug into a computer at the end of the shift and they give you an exposure readout. But you have to pay the tag maker for the software license and unless you have several operators its a bit of an outlay. The manufacturers tool instruction books should give two ratings in m/s squared - one is the vibration of a new saw in factory conditions and the other is the 'k' factor which is the inaccuracy in measurement. If you are interested in the H&S bit then to get the recommended maximum use time you are supposed to add both figures together and put them in the reckoner spreadsheet which gives you a guide use time to include in a risk assessment. People often overestimate use time which only really counts when you are cutting and getting feedback through your hands as this is when the capilleries and nerves in your fingers are being shaken. But if you use several tools a day all of them supposed to be factored in to the vibration calculation. The HSE book on vibration requires employers to not expose operatives over the upper limit level, several Councils and housing associations have been prosecuted for exposing their workers to high levels for years made the workers disabled. HAVS when diagnosed is also a RIDDOR reportable. The only exception in their book called L140 tends to be reactive emergency clearance work but then you would need to offset the over-exposure on that day by not working the following day(s) and it should not be regular event etc. Its a bit of a minefield for employers to be honest and even safety professionals find it difficult Vibration levels increase as blades get blunt, moving parts get worn and springs get worn out too so a year old saw will have higher vibration which the instruction book value doesn't really consider. Having measured people using tools other factors make a huge difference a death gripped tool with locked wrists will cause the user higher exposure and risk damage to upper arms / carpal tunnel etc. I have noticed technique between people on the same tool change the reading by 3.5ms. The weather and & the effects of cold also make a difference as the blood will retreat making the capilleries and nerves more easily damaged esp. with cumulative exposures. The type of wood being cut can also make a difference to the reading. Despite their marketing anti-vibration gloves tend to be seen as a bit of a con in H&S and operators feel over protected then end up with a worse exposure than if they didn't use them In my limited experience good employers often do some form of time management for tools considering the ones in use and conditions and get health surveillance checks for their workers.
  2. Chainsaw DCS.docx When I started using saw checked these PUWER things before each use to get in the habit of working safely may not cover everything did not include a service schedule but you could overtype your own on the attachment word document attached
  3. id go MS170 you can get spares and it will last if looked after plus its under budget which gives some money spare to get a couple files
  4. idk repetiition? manipulation? or somethhing like that?
  5. trying to create the Gruffalo's child and a pretty quick long eared owl
  6. love the fur on this wolf 👍
  7. think this is some type of honey fungus oh and a grass snake
  8. ivory funnelcap dryads saddle? think these are common bonnet?
  9. can end up with wedge shapes if you are not aware.
  10. I would echo that its easy to go off plumb with a beam maker I have used one of these a few times now, its quirky the fixing isn't robust enough to hold the bar vertical in the cut
  11. Using teak oil and decking oil i've found you have to get the carving really clean before you coat it when you have done a lot of fine sanding on it first. The tiny wood dust particles seem to group up within the oil and spoil the finish ifs its not been jetwash first Have used decking oil on a couple of pieces which worked ok, much thinner and easier to paint on the carving.
  12. Have you tried just putting the .050 bars and chains on them. I run a 193 1/4 for carving but when I'm working near other people and have to keep the noise down just put the bars and chains off it on the MSA200. The stihl carving bar fits it as does a sugi hara carving bar in 10" and 12" both from chainsawbars. The 16" sugihara won't fit it because it doesn't have the open end. The book from the msa200 says to only use .043 but as long as you don't load the saw too heavily it seems to push the .050 chains through the wood, esp conifers. haven't tried it with all species yet.

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