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stuckinthemud

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Everything posted by stuckinthemud

  1. stuckinthemud
    Spent a lot of lock down working on a proper sheath for my favourite carving knife instead of the naf plastic one its been in for the last 20 years inspired by ainu style knife equipment. The netsuke I made a while ago, so bit of a cheat there. The sheath is apple wood with tinted Danish oil finish. Ojime bead and netsuke are fallow antler.
  2. stuckinthemud
    nice work
  3. stuckinthemud
    Love it, stunning work well done.
  4. stuckinthemud
    Nearly finished this, push-pin lock, ash lath, 45lb draw (I know that's tiny - like a kids longbow but still a lot of fun), stock and tickler are mulberry. The tickler is steam bent. Bolt clip is water buffalo horn, dry-heat shaped, inlays are antler (string slot) and bone (bolt rest). I made so many mistakes I nearly gave up, biggest problem was a huge tear-out around a knot just behind the string-slot which resulted in a very slender tiller, which in turn meant I had to go to stirrup rather than wippe. I want to re-do the bindings and still have to twist up a decent string and fletch a set of bolts but the wood-work is all done.
  5. stuckinthemud
    Dunno if this qualifies, sycamore, about 7ft across, can't measure it, its too wide, photo doesn't do it justice
  6. stuckinthemud
    Think my valley might be behind sunny Newport, couldn't find the tree, the logs or a stump, did find some ash logs though, a lot of the trees in the copse only just coming into leaf, I'll try again in a fortnight but I'm beginning to feel like I imagined it.
  7. stuckinthemud
    Dunno, will get down there later and check it out, chances are its all small diameter but I'll have a look
  8. stuckinthemud
    Thanks for letting me know. Its a pile of logs in that case. ?
  9. stuckinthemud
    Near me there is (was?) a laburnum a ways off the footpath in an un-managed copse, I keep meaning to coppice it but I can only identify it when its in flower, cos I'm rubbish at identifying trees. Thing is it might have been growing under the power lines and the power-line tree-surgeons have been through there like a dose of salts over the winter and it might now be a pile of logs.
  10. stuckinthemud
    Or this, its one of my all time favourites http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,61803.msg864257.html#msg864257
  11. stuckinthemud
    (sambuccus nigra), elder, apparently makes a fabulous bow, there are several examples on-line, not the easiest wood to use and needs to be from a mature stem with thick enough side-walls
  12. stuckinthemud
    Ok, when I did a HW80 stock I scraped the old varnish off, sealed the wood with a varnish heavily diluted with white spirits so it filled the pores but did not sit on the surface. Then I made my own rub-in stain with white spirits and burned umber artists paint which I applied as really thin washes til I got to the colour I needed and finally oiled it and waxed it. The stock is probably beech, so you could get hold of a piece and practice 1st
  13. stuckinthemud
    Gonna harvest a small amount of longbow billets, just got to work out if that's an hour of exercise, or essential travel
  14. stuckinthemud
    Any ideas? Thank in advance.
  15. stuckinthemud
    you're not wrong!
  16. stuckinthemud
    I was walking by the river for the first time since last month's floods and found these two trees washed down the valley and dropped on land I have permission to cut; any ideas what they are? Tree 1 Tree 2
  17. stuckinthemud
    Sorry, but my disk is a 4" cutting disk that you use as a direct replacement for the 'normal' cutting disk on an angle grinder but PM me and I'll just send you it to you if you want to try one out. It's no-where near as accurate as my dime-tip bar fitted with a carving chain though. What sort of timber does your bonsai produce and what are you trying to carve? Once you get below a certain size you're better off with hand tools and die-grinders.
  18. stuckinthemud
    I used to carve with the arbortech wheel in an angle grinder but once I used a carving set up on a chainsaw I would never ever go back to it.
  19. stuckinthemud
    Really nice work, those.
  20. stuckinthemud
    Bonus that it reduces splitting then, the oil is good for colour protection and fungii resistance as well!
  21. stuckinthemud
    Yes, it will seal moisture in, the aim is to slow moisture movement, not stop it. If moisture moves slowly it allows the wood to move in a way that minimises stresses created as drying surface wood tries to contract above wet core wood. By going slowly the moisture in the core is drawn to the surface and the wood dries evenly, contracting more evenly, splitting less.
  22. stuckinthemud
    Like it
  23. stuckinthemud
    Heat is usually used to put in reflex, deflex or recurves (hooks) but a deep heat soak is used to change the chemical composition of the wood resulting in a 20 to 30 % improvement in bow speed
  24. stuckinthemud
    robinia, oh don't go there, my brother helped my dad out by removing a troublesome robinia. Chopped it up into eeny teeny pieces and binned the jolly lot......................................
  25. stuckinthemud
    Slightly to one side, have you learned about straightening timber with heat? Boiling water, steam and hot air from a heat gun can all warm timber up to a point it becomes elastic and can be straightened (or bent) and un-twisted - even a 90 degree twist can be removed from some timbers. It takes some of the pressure of timber selection away when you know what can be fixed and how to fix it. Bow building is a fascinating and rewarding craft, be warned, its also highly addictive!

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