Steven P

Would be obvious you are there to work if you are taking your climbing kit, can't hide that, but also check that it is clean according to their bio security rules.... likewise too much late night TV!

Kind of hope he doesn't get elected but keeps up with his social media posts just for the comedy value as his marbles decline with age. Also kind of hope that one of the American broadcasters keeps humouring and triggering him. Cruel perhaps, shouldn't mock.

Likewise get someone to inspect the tree, might be someone on here in your area who could do that - let us know where you are perhaps. As for the council, regardless it would be handy to know which trees you have (if any) have a TPO so might be useful to talk to them anyway.

Couple of days later and this looks like it is fizzling out a bit to just nasty and not all out war, Iran I think saving face that assassinations took place on their soil.

tried rotatech chains on my saws this year - usually (homeowner use) went OEM and they have done me OK, not as cheap but cheaper

why is this so urgent? I am no expert but do all processors use the same sized bars and chains? What is your definition of best? durability, speed of cut, hardness of the cutting edges, sharpening requirements, price and so on? Might need to be a little more specific.

Yeah but tell her how hot she looks wearing wellies and you might just get away with it. (or a whole new world of adult interests)

Would something smaller get dwarfed by the others around it I wonder?

Yes, I remember but can't remember which thread it was in

No idea either but be interesting to find out

Should have asked this a while ago, do you have a budget (might have missed that bit). I'd be tempted to put a drain along both sides, stop run off running off onto the drive and take whatever falls onto it when it is raining. Could link them both to the existing ones down the slope. A couple of surface drains over the slope part to reduce the amount of water onto the road - the type with a grid on top (fewer trip hazards on the way back from the local). Wasn't it the Romans who worked out that if you can get rid of the water then the roads lasted a lot longer?

I'd always thought that kiln drying works that you can charge a premium but you also don't need to rent twice as much storage space for air drying - kiln dried the logs can be in and out in a year, air dried 2 years+. Consistent product and able to produce more from the same land / yard area. Wood fuel to burn the wood that isn't economical to kiln dry - softwoods, scraps, misshapen bits, chips ('waste')

as above in this instance, it is a small drive and not a yard so I think the occasional truck, perhaps delivering a new freezer every 10 years shouldn't factor in - in this case - however it is interesting to read in the general discussion for future reference (I get a load of logs tipped a couple of times a year and every 5 the most recent to die car gets taken away on a flat bed)

15x3 drive, it is only going to be used for cars though.

Skirting: Going to be putting solid flooring down in the next year or so, replacing the skirting as the other option would be to remove and refit higher up after stripping the paint (80 years of knocks and dents) with the flooring underneath the skirting - I really don't like those plastic edge strips. This years pottering is replacing the sub floor as and when the family are out for the day. Oh, and stripping the doors to repaint, new latches, handles, tiling, but first there are logs to cut and hedges to trim so have to mow before house DIY,. and while I have the trimmer out cut back the brambles from the path in the woods... and while I do that, pick few berries, re-site the trail cams.. and plant a few willows into a living wall... eventually getting back on track with the flooring later.

Simplest might be to drill through the drive where the puddles form to create a soak away at that point, put a grid on top - might keep the wife happy while you work out the best solution between you? Power brush the lot to make it look nice

Thinking of quotes, the one that amused me earlier - I think he was man quening for petrol for a couple of hours, "even the grocery stores are shut" - his neigbours houses are blown down but he cannot get to the shop to buy his cornflakes. Meant to be have been the most powerful?

You'd be surprised! (last tree I took down, by a burn, no obvous fenceline in that field, 1' length exactly where I wanted to cut full of old nails with nothing obvious to show they were there)

"Daily Starmer"! Though of course the current state of the infrastructure in the UK, many years of decline, has had nothing to do with Starmer or Milliband, but the right of centre politicians who sold off the water companies and didn't push to get the required investment invested. More interestingly back to glaciers. They might be 99% rainwater (snow water anyway) but also exposed to any air pollution before it melts, snow often forms around a nucleus (pollution) which falls to the glacier and so on. So while not salt water will still need processing. Desalination plants might work but I don't know if it is more energy efficient to drive a tanker thousands of miles or run one of them. Probably tanker.

I think this was mentioned above, what is the land used for? Looks like grazing, sheep? or parkland? In which case perhaps the minimum you'd need to do is stabilise it so it doesn't fall and hurt anything (people or livestock - remembering children will climb and a sheeps ambition is to die as soon as it can).

Selling gets a very different response than having a small amount on the passenger seat when parked up for the night.

Just to the right of 'farm available'... D'Oh! Didn't read the full subject title. Must be dinner time.

any clue as to where your yard is?

Coal needs air through the grate, wood works best with top air. However it will all burn on a fire set for coal. If you have a coal fire with no airflow from underneath you can burn through the grate. I reckon coal is also bad for the fire bricks. Coal gives of sulpher (dioxide, acid, whatever) which if it gets damp can turn into sulphuric acid / sulphurous acid (sorry, GCSE chemistry was a while ago, sulpher + moisture -> acid) which could condense onto the chimney or flu walls if the flu walls are still cold or cooling at the end of the day. When everything is warmed up you'll get minimal sulphuric acid condensing. Coal ashes can contain nasty stuff so shouldn't be spread on a garden like wood ash. If it was me, I'd start with a good hot wood fire to get everything warm - mid winter though, my chimney rarely cools enough to be a problem, and then switch to coal burning. I might have a mix of both if I wanted better flames (showing off for having company in the house perhaps), rarely burn them both at the same time but might swap from 1 to the other part way through a day (for example, a coal fire if I am going to the shops, lasts longer, and then a wood fire in the evening). If burning both, I'll set the bottom air as if it is a coal fire and adjust the top so that the wood burns well. Ashes, I have a separate pile for coal ash which sits for a couple of years and the nasties leach out - then I think it is OK to use kind of like a sharp sand. It is also pretty good to go on the road when it is iced over (cold of course), gives extra grip, black colour absorbs sun energy and warms up quicker, sawdust also goes on the road if I want to be more green about things/

That's better, the Daily Starmer Report.