Chris at eden

Are the canopies watertight? I know the roller shutter tend to leak.

Cotoneaster.

I use the active tab 3. You can pick them up refurbished for less than £200 and does the job. As said previously though heavy rain can be an issue. Battery lasts about 6 hours but I just use a power bank to top up between jobs or at lunch time, it’s quicker that the car charger. You could put the power bank in your pocket and connect to the tablet while using to top up as you work. That is why I bought it but have never had to use that way as it charges quick. I think the active 5 lasts longer though. It’s worth getting the rugged case for about £25 it it has a strap to hang round your neck so frees your hands up when needed and it has a holder for the stylus, the tablet itself doesn’t. The GPS isn’t great, about the same as a phone. 2-4m. You can get the archer 4 which is sub metre accuracy with the expansion pack but it’s mega expensive.

Looking for a part time surveyor on sub contract basis to undertake BS5837 surveys and QTRA surveys Requirements: Level 4 Arb ideally, would consider level 3 with experience (essential) PTI (essential) QTRA (desirable) Full UK drivers licence and access to vehicle (essential) Contact me on [email protected] if interested. Thanks Chris

The discovery sport is a nice family car. Smaller than the disco. Not cheap but very nice and plenty of power. 240bhp for the big diesel spec. The hybrid is about 300bhp I think. Never towed with it so no idea on that front.

What are you looking for pay wise? Subby or on the books?

The bit at a time probably isn’t a bad idea. As someone else said the LPA shouldn’t really be putting a TPO on low quality tree. But if you are removing a lot of trees that could have a bigger cumulative impact on visual amenity and they could consider using the group designation.

You can’t use the felling licence route as trees in gardens are exempt. Plus the FC wound consult the LPA anyway if it was a CA.

Zone of influence relates specifically to indirect damage and is detailed within NHBC chapter 4.2. I.e. the distance at which trees have been observed to cause subsidence. the ZOI for birch is 7m. For conifers it will depend on the species but off the top of my head I think Leyland cypress are 25m. Whether or not there is a risk depends on several factors. Soil type, tree species and water demand, foundation depth, geographical location, etc. I do this type of tree report pretty often. Sometimes the surveyors are just passing on liability but sometimes they know a bit about the area and how common tree related subsidence is locally. Hope this helps Regards Chris

Ps. What ever you do, make sure it is recognised by Ofqual and is on the qualifications framework otherwise it may not be recognised over there. I.e. the NQF, QCF, RQF or whatever it is called these days.

ISA cert Arb is probably the only route you can take to get it in by Jan. you’ll need to check exam dates and work to that. It isn’t difficult though and you can turn it around pretty quickly. Or maybe the SEG level 2 if you they let you start straight away. I think it typically starts in September though and runs for a year. It would give you the opportunity to progress to level 4 which covers surveying so a plan for when you are no longer climbing. And I think you can do it all online so maybe it would carry some weight if you had started it and carried on over there. Level 3 will take you 2 years at a college usually. Give tree life a call and ask them your options. They do the SEG qualifications and I think ISA as well. You can just do ISA on your own though by getting the study guide. Good luck. Chris.

He did my training for the Q74 via WhatsApp. I also did the advanced user training at their place a while ago.

Have you tried Treesource?

What do you mean? Turn around time for a report once surveyed or lead time to get a survey done?

That isn’t really a pollard although it is often what tree owners want when they ask for a pollard. It’s been topped. Topping is not great for trees and although trees often grow back you are kind of rolling the dice. Pollarding is done from when trees are small and on a regular basis. The cuts are small and become occluded forming the bolling over time. This means they become resistant to decay and they are not site for entry of pathogens. It does not take much energy to occlude them and you are not removing much stored energy in the small branches removed. Yours has lost a lot of stored energy from large branch removals and the wounds are too large to ever successfully occlude. Plus, they are quite prone to frost damage so pruning in January may not be the best time. You could try decompaction and mulching to improve the rooting area but it’s a long shot. And Enerbite injections to give the top a boost. That’s an even longer shot as trees have to be actively transpiring and the more the better. Yours only has a bit of leaf area. Chris