adw
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Everything posted by adw
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Another idea, has it sheared the flywheel key?
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Has one of the seals fallen out?
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The crank seals are not the easiest to get fitted correctly, so initially I would do a quick pressure test to be sure before attacking anything else.
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Any reduction in compressor what ever reason always effects the idle first, so you need to confirm the piston, ring and cylinder are in good condition, it might be interesting if your friendly local dealer could plug it in and look at the carb setting, the L setting is the most telling as to how it is running.
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Jonsered 630/625/670 should all fit, you can fit Husqvarna 162/266/268/272 but would need to modify the back of the cover due to the angle of the top handle where it fits to the tank.
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Not sure you will get that band, it will probably a complete later chain brake, Husqvarna never used that band, the 630 was a Husqvarna 162se but for some reason Jonsered used there own brake.
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The oil pump is held with on screw, if the screw comes loose the pump body will move and chew the plastic pump drive up, obviously check the filter in the oil tank first as this is easily done, the pump itself very rarely goes wrong so I can’t imagine it’s that.
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Stubby will remember this, they used to sell the Tomas mopeds in Woolworths. The L77 was just a 65 with the cylinder from the 280/380 hence the plug sticking up through the top cover, there is a L65 on the bay which is quite rare as it has a chain brake, you do not see many of those.
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The last L65 machines were built in the Tomas factory in Yugoslavia of which I have a brand new one.
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Can’t remember the last time I saw one that clean, so with that out of the way, do we have contact between the crankcase and the fuel tank? or is there something trapped between crankcase and tank?
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As per the title, does anyone have a Jonsered 2095 scrap saw, rear handle and cylinder cover required.
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I know it sounds unlikely but you will not see play on the crank if the cages have gone because all the balls are still there, you do get vibration because the balls are no longer correctly spaced, you could bite the bullet and pull the seals out, you will then see the cages, they are easy enough to to remove ( they are within the bearing) however great care, and ideally special tools to replace them, both seals are the same on the later 560 but different on the early saw.
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Normally if the bearing cage has broken up the seals are damaged, this in turn makes the idle very erratic along with vibration, very often you can see traces of melted material in the spark arrestor gauze, there are other things to create vibrations, clutch damage, sprocket damage/wear.
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All this air you have been blasting through the engine had probably dried it right out, air filter off and dribble some oily fuel down the inlet, try again.
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The difference between the rx and the rxt is the handle support tube, same engine, gearbox etc.
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3/8 rim 501598002 501597702 3/8 rim sprocket
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You should have zero up and down movment on the con rod ( big end ) side to side movment ( lateral ) is acceptable, these saws are more suseptable to main bearing cages breaking up not so much big end bearing wear.
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It should fit the 2100/2101xp
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Bloody hell Steve don’t re open the clutch coming off on the over run thread again, I’ve only just got over it from the last time.
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Yes, it does appear in all the ipls, I told them numerous times but gave up in the end, the best place to find the rim is in one of the 254xp ipls.
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3/8 small spline rim 504523002
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Sorry that is not correct, that is a large spline rim.
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The 357xp only came as standard with small bar pad and .325 sprocket, rim and pump drive gear, the crank journal never never changed diameter. .325 sprocket complete 503980071 .325 small splined rim 501457402 .325 oil pump drive gear 503912702
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Interesting, please let us know if this works.
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Oh that is the early Bosch unit, you will not get anything to marry up with that so I wouldn’t even try, so from memory 501831901 ignition unit and 501832001 flywheel two pawl, not sure if either are still about.
