adw

The difference between the rx and the rxt is the handle support tube, same engine, gearbox etc.

3/8 rim 501598002 501597702 3/8 rim sprocket

You should have zero up and down movment on the con rod ( big end ) side to side movment ( lateral ) is acceptable, these saws are more suseptable to main bearing cages breaking up not so much big end bearing wear.

It should fit the 2100/2101xp

Bloody hell Steve don’t re open the clutch coming off on the over run thread again, I’ve only just got over it from the last time.

Yes, it does appear in all the ipls, I told them numerous times but gave up in the end, the best place to find the rim is in one of the 254xp ipls.

3/8 small spline rim 504523002

Sorry that is not correct, that is a large spline rim.

The 357xp only came as standard with small bar pad and .325 sprocket, rim and pump drive gear, the crank journal never never changed diameter. .325 sprocket complete 503980071 .325 small splined rim 501457402 .325 oil pump drive gear 503912702

Interesting, please let us know if this works.

Oh that is the early Bosch unit, you will not get anything to marry up with that so I wouldn’t even try, so from memory 501831901 ignition unit and 501832001 flywheel two pawl, not sure if either are still about.

Ok as long as the starter is there as his machine may have a two pawl starter not three pawl.

The 285 was a smaller version of the 2100cd, there were a few different ignition designs, the best would require changing the flywheel and unit to the sem system from the 165/265rx or 298 or 480cd, there will be no way to get the original units fitted to the machine, a picture of the unit may hel a little as some had a separate replaceable coil.

Ok, some clarification needed, the s pipe as you call it, which connection on the purge bulb, long or short? when you depress the bulb does it push easily? does the bulb re inflate normally?

Take the purge bulb out, depress it, whilst depressed stick your thumb on the short connector, let the purge go, it should not re inflate.

If you do a vac test on the purge connector and fuel is down out then is it not just an issue with the bulb itself??

As I made complete dogs dinner of this I will explain a bit better, if you have a remote purge bulb it will have two connections on the back, a long connection which is the pressure side, and a short connection which is the suction side, so when the bulb is depressed a pressure is caused, as the bulb re inflates it creates a suction, there will also be a non return valve in the bulb so as to stop pressure down the suction side, there may also be a non return valve in the carb, so the short suction connector goes to the carb, this will be the connection closest to the metering side of the carb, this will draw fuel from the metering chamber into the bulb, when the bulb is depressed the fuel in the bulb is sent back to the fuel tank. so back to the original question why does it not purge, fuel filter in the tank blocked fuel screen in the carb blocked fuel hose kinked or split purge bulb faulty, non return valve stuck, or pin hole in bulb pipes incorrectly connected inlet needle stuck non return valve in main jet faulty metering diaphragm split.

Sorry NOT going to hold vacuum.

That is the purge connection so it’s going to hold a vacuum , the purge bulb pulls fuel from here, into the bulb and pushes back to tank, the carb has a compensator not an accelerator pump.

No problem fitting a non g flywheel, so as been said you may have sheared the flywheel key again, when you say rebuild what other parts have you fitted?

As a Briggs master technician ( I can see your impressed Steve ) you use a leak down tester to check valve leakage, cylinder and piston wear etc. check it out it’s a good bit of kit.

Leak down test will give you a good idea of the health of the engine internals.

So here we have good and bad.

Sorry I got the carb settings round the wrong way, L = 1 3/4 and H = 1 1/4 sorry I had a moment. I can take some pictures of the cylinder and manifold if it helps.

You can look from the r/h side between the covers, you will see the the back of the cylinder, you should not see a gap where the manifold is not fitting tight to the cylinder, just measure the distance between x torq ports on the original cylinder and compare with the new one, the impulse tube runs from the top of the carb to a connection on the inlet manifold.