H-A

It is after all " A long way to Tipperary":001_smile: H-A

Hydrochloric acid (HCl in chemical terms) is available in small quantities from hardware stores, it is sold as "spirits of salts". If you want more concentrate Hydrochloric acid, pop into your local car valeting suppliers, ask for steam cleaner de-scaler. I bought a 5 gallon drum for £15, it is concentrated enough to smoke when you take the lid off the drum. Don't breathe the fumes or it will make your lungs hurt, don't get it in your eyes, or on your skin. Another benefit, put half a pint down your toilet and leave over night, super strength Vical.(warn every one who may use the loo, that it has acid in it.) It removes all the lime scale, she will be pleased. H-A

Good for you, but I still enjoy a fryup. H-A

Thanks for the tip. Is it worth warming up the crankcase halves as stated in the service manual for replacing the bearings, or will they just tap out and tap back in? 230 C is possible in the oven, but I don't want to burn the paint off. H-A

Thanks Spdulike:laugh1: , the bearings are not expensive so thought I would replace them anyway. I do like to see the condition of the crank, piston and cylinder, so for the sake of a few screw I personally do a full strip down and clean. I am glad the cylinder, piston and crank are in mint condition, makes the cost of new bearings and seals worthwhile. Now waiting for the postman again. H-A

I have ordered some of these as well 12x20x5mm Nitrile Rubber Rotary Shaft Oil Seal with Garter Spring R23 / TC Simply Bearings Ltd Are these the ones you meant? I do have an account at simply bearings, very good service, have used them a lot for bearings and seals in Yamaha outboards. H-A P.S. I did look at the Stihl ones closely, and the single bent back lip may give a longer life than the single lip Nitrile type, time will tell. I was shocked by how brittle the Stihl seals are Nitrile ones are far more user friendly.

Now he says:001_smile: H-A

I tried to install new seal with a socket, now wish I had made up a special tool in the lathe. New seal cracked, they are very fragile, have ordered another one. How much play is OK in the main needle rollers, I can feel a very slight amount of play if I wiggle the clutch side of the crankcase. I am assuming that any play is too much, and have ordered new bearings, is this wise or am I being a bit fussy? H-A

The 4 stroke may have been some sort of alternative in some situations, but lacks most of the 2 strokes appeal mainly weight. There is talk that the Californian regulations on emissions, will create problems for the saw makers in the U.S. Stock up on your 2 stroke motors, as the day will come, when new 2 strokes will not be available, going on past experience. Stihl have a 4 stroke lubricated with 2 stroke oil that is a little odd. No doubt Husqvarna has allocated a very large part of their R and D budget on 4 stroke and electric development. H-A

I like the Idea of a stable ready mixed fuel, this will be used by every one if the price is a little bit nearer the cost of pump petrol and oil mix. From what I have learnt, the apparently "new" short life of petrol is due to the addition of Ethanol to petrol. In America they have a real problem with the Ethanol content, can be up to 10%. Ethanol absorbs water, so if left in motors can cause real corrosion problems. Also ethanol attacks some of the rubber diaphragms in carbs. Give us stable premix at £10-£12 per gallon, and we will all be there. When will the EU ban the sale of 2 stroke chainsaws? they did it with outboard motors, it will be a matter of time, how heavy will the new MS202T 4 stroke be? Electric saws may well be the way to go, Li-Po and Lithium-Ion technology is improving fast. Imagine how quiet and fume free it will be, the tree huggers won't know whether to hug you or tree that you have just felled with your electric Husky. Just a thought. H-A

I am a little worried about Joe Grundy, also never miss the afternoon play:001_smile: H-A

I may just replace them anyway, do I need the special seal removal tool "5910 890 4400 with jaws 0000 893 3706" Or is there a simple method, can I just dig them out ? H-A

Great, I cant get in my shed already. H-A

I live in Surrey, I did buy an Evinrude 6HP from Dover, they are interesting, uncaged needles for the big ends. H-A

At the moment I have it set rich on the low speed screw, to keep the revs down, I will look at the plug colour tomorrow. If there is a crankcase leak it is small, but I would like to control the idle with the idle screw, having set the low running mixture !/4 turn richer than best speed. H-A

I did remove the grommet an look to see if there was a problem with throttle movement, but it was closing fully. That is what made me think of crankcase leak, I am more used to bronze outboard main bearings. Steep learning curve, if only I could make one of my British Seagull racing engines rev to 12,000. Now I need a 0 to 1 atmosphere vacuum gauge. I might just replace the main bearings and seals, good place to start. H-A

I would say the clutch is fine, the only problem is that the Idle speed adjustment screw has no effect at low revs. I can reduce the revs by richening up the low speed screw, and there is no movement of the chain It can't be correct that I should adjust the idle with the low speed mixture screw. If that is normal practice for tuning this saw, that is great I will not strip the crank out and replace bearings and seals. I just seems a little odd that I cant back off the idle adjusting screw enough to stall the motor. H-A

I have a good speed range adjustment on the low screw, rich through to lean. If I adjust to best running on the low screw, then the revs are too high and I can't back off the idle screw to adjust the tick over. The only way I can make it tick over well is to richen up the low screw. On all of my other saws and disc cutters, I set the "L" screw first to best speed, then back off the idle adjustment screw, to the desired idle speed (no chain or belt movement). New one for me. H-A

I thought I should get one of Stihls best ever saws. Arrived in the post yesterday, wow what a nice saw. Loads of power, very light, now I can see why they are so well thought of. As the new saws idle was a little fast (chain just moving), I backed off the idle speed screw, but that made no difference to the idle speed. Could there be an air leak? main seals perhaps? Thanks H-A

I lubricate engine rebuilds with 2 stroke oil. Now all back together, runs well, I hope the new cylinder and piston last. It looks very nice quality, How can they be made so cheaply? OMC outboards have a special grease for holding the loose needles in place in the big ends, some people use petroleum jelly (Vaseline) as it desolves easily in the petrol oil mix, my main concern with grease is that it may take some time to dissolve. H-A

Because the conrod is shot, new second hand crank and conrod £16. Hope the bearings on the new crank are good. H-A

There was not much left of the bearing, the outer cage had gone and just the inner was left with a few of the needles missing. The conrod little end is destroyed, this gave room for the bearing to fall apart. The other picture of the conrod shows where one if the needles hit it, squashing it against the side of the cylinder. Waiting for the post man again. H-A

After my success with a stihl rebuild, thought I would chance my luck and look at a 136 that has been on the shelf for a couple of years. Having taken it apart, I have found it has spat out a needle from the little end, that went through the transfer port and took out the ring. I wondered why it stopped so quickly. I will replace the crankshaft and conrod with a second hand one, also will try out a new "copy part cylinder and piston", have gone for the 40mm for a little more grunt, I hope it lasts better than other ones mentioned on the forum. H-A

It is a great feeling when it starts, thats why I do it, still gives me a buzz. I do keep an eye out at the boot sales, most people can't be bothered to mend things, so there are bargains to be had. H-A

Well the blue one works. Tuned it up, starts first pull. Is this a classic saw to keep? H-A