Dan Forsh

That would be down to poor antivibe

If you are saying that you constantly get the bulb only half fuel half air, then something isn't right. Are you pumping the bulb for the required number of times and still getting 50/50? If that's the case, then I'd think it's more likely a badly fitting hose, but then I'd also expect fuel leaks.

As others have said, you could probably pick up a used 880 for less money. I have an 084 that I picked up a couple years ago, condition unknown, for £45. with a 36" ES bar and chain. Granted I've never dug into it as my 'playing with chainsaws' time hasn't been much since I bought it, so it might be a cheap fix/runner it might not be. But that said the 084 wasn't a model that was in production for very long and consequently the parts support either new or 2nd hand isn't there, and I don't recall that there is much interchangeable with the 088/880. Performance wise a good running saw would do what you need it to, but for the sake of longevity I'd advise you to go with what is still current and has the parts support; MS880.

Just wanted to share this post I've put in stolen equipment forum. I'm sure you guys all know the unfortunate victim and will keep your eyes open if any of his stuff surfaces. I follow Simon on Facebook just to admire the amazing work he does, but I'm sure some of the contributors in here probably know him personally. http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/stolen-equipment/107274-massive-theft-saws-equipment-wales.html

I'm not clever enough to add links to the original post, but hopefully pasting the info below from Simon O'Rourke's post on Facebook helps make more people aware and on the look out for his stuff. This is a guy doing some fantastic original work who has had his equipment wiped out. Please post and share via as many outlets as you can think of. "Stolen chainsaws and tools from my workshop in Rossett north Wales last night... please share this. All the saws have my S logo etched into the bodies. STIHL Ms150 x2 STIHL Ms170 Echo 360 Echo 281 Makita UK Ea7901 x2 Makita Dcs 5121 x2 Makita Duc353 Husqvarna 550 xpg Husqvarna 395 Harry cane 3’ stihl bar 24”toonie 22” tsumura 16” tsumura 14” tsumura 12” tsumura 043 12” tsumura 050 9” tsumura 14” cannon 12” cannon 36” tsumura 4 Makita batteries Makita router RT0700cx2 Makita router rp2301"

Personally I never do go with specified torque on any saw I've rebuilt. I just go with tightening diagonally opposite bolts and take them up in stages and then finally good and tight (hand tight) with my trusty tee handle T27 driver. I'm sure others will decry my method as madness and tell you to get a decent torque wrench, each to their own. What I would say is get a copy of the shop manual to work with. I've never taken an MS200T all the way down for a rebuilt, but I've heard others say that they can seem like a bit of a pig to those who aren't familiar.

That usually just means they don't stop on the stop switch though doesn't it? OP, one thing I noticed, and I can't see anyone else has mentioned, you said "wouldn't start after 12 months no use", are you sure this isn't due to stale fuel? Are you trying to start it with the fuel that's been in it for 12 months, or fresh fuel? And same applies to the fuel you are putting directly into the cylinder, is this fresh fuel or what's been sat in a fuel can next to the saw for 12 months? One thing I do know is that 2 stoke equipment doesn't like being sat unused, like cars they develop all sorts of issues with lack of use. I favour the Americans' use of a splash of Seafoam in the fuel, either as a preventative measure or as part of the revival of a troubled, been stored, motor.

Thanks Richard. I have red Dirko gasket compound. That's supposed to be high temp, would I be better off using that rather than the PTFE tape? I didn't think of using that and I'm not sure it's suitable for threads. I just don't want to send the saw back with something that isn't a permanent repair.

Gents, do you think it's okay to use this solution? I've just replaced the piston and cylinder on an 026 that decided to eat one of its piston rings. The guy I've done it for didn't want to spend too much so went with a farmer tec kit, which in fairness didn't look to be too bad quality. On pressure testing it was leaking and I finally found that it was due to the poor thread on the decomp valve port. I put PTFE tape on the blank off bolt and this immediately cured the leak. I'm going to leave it blanked off (one less thing to leak) just wanted to check if the PTFE tape is okay or if you'd recommend some other long term solution? Cheers, Dan

Good to know for future reference

Are you supposed to use the primer for a hot start? I thought they were just meant for ease of starting from cold?

Like the guy before said, assume you mean you've bought a new tank/engine housing as that model only has the little clam shell type of crank case. If you've bought a tank that suits the model with a primer bulb and the one you're fixing doesn't have one, I don't think it's going to be too much of a problem, just seal off the return on the fuel tank. Otherwise I think it should all go back together. 021, 023, 025 are all pretty much interchangeable bits.

Nice to see Steve, plenty would take his money, regardless, if he's asked for it.

Get your coat...

That's the best excuse I've heard for buying another saw