wisecobandit

You dont usually need a crankcase splitter for the stihls. Its only the husqvarnas you need a splitter as a rule although I did need to use the Husqvarna splitter on an 026 once. Normally a gentle blow from a soft faced mallet/hammer is enough for them.

There's more drivel being spouted here than in the firewood forum.

 

How many have actually driven an Amarok? The automatics are THE BEST pickup on the market. I have driven them all, why else would I have paid the extra £3-5k to have one of these.

 

As for longevity, who cares I wont keep it more than two years anyway.

 

A couple of sticky photos from yesterday for those who have never seen one with mud on

 

This may not be the wright place to ask this but there seems to be allot of knowledge on pick ups so worth a shot I have a d40 navara which just before Christmas had front passenger wheel bearing go so I replaced it well a garage did yesterday I noticed play in the same wheel returned it to the garage wear they said bearing had failed again replaced it again for free saying it must have been a faulty part I can't help worrying there is some other reason it's gone thru two bearings in less than a month any ideas would be much appreciated as I am not mechanical at all :-(

Ive seen it before where the outer case of the bearing has fractured when being tapped in causing a small crack having not had even pressure or not sitting squarely. (I have to admit doing it once on an audi a4)

I would say its more likely a fitting error more so than the actual part itself if im honest.

You know me Ken as I told you I actually decided on the petrol/lpg Mitsi simply because all the diesels seem to have there faults. Being a tight arse I don't mind paying 60 odd pence a ltr for fuel and knowing I shouldn't get diesel related engine problems and have 180hp.

Biggarlogs the 4-work gets classed as a work vehicle so thumbs up. Its not chavved up like the animal. I wander why they don't bring out a 4-play??? lol.

Difflock they done similar with the series landrover engines the originals only had 3 mains.

On the other hand the Massey 35 had issues when they went from the early 3 cylinder to 4 cylinder engines as the design of the 4 cylinder meant on slopes the oil would run out the engine. Farmers soon disliked them because of it.

Ummm, but Wisecobandit as engineers better understand the ICE and metals and ceramics et al.

And with better quality fuels, technology and electronics.

Perhaps not?

Be so likely to spit the dummy out, that is.

So!

Dinny be such a Luddite.

Without doubt as you say technology moves on so it will be interesting. Like most things tho it wont show for years and theres also the question of how many are actually going to be used for the purpose intended Most will end up as Chelsea tractors no doubt so wont be pushed to any limits. They certainly wont sell to many given there price etc.

It does make you wander tho along the lines of the first l200 non turbos which where trouble free and then when they banged a turbo on them for more power and effeciency the heads went 5 years down the line and then shortly after the bottom ends start to knock or the k series rover 1800 headgasket issues.

It appears it is easier to get a boosted smaller capacity engine to meet the EC CO2 regulation "bands" therefore a lower Road Fund Duty (As if it were ever spent on the roads!!!!!!) and therefore a more salable product.

The law of unintended consequences.

Ditto for 3 cyls replacing 4 and 4 replacing 6 cyls.

Due to lower frictional losses with a lower no of cylinders and other moving parts.

Also lighter, therefore more efficient.

I will however readily admit, that the 1.6TDI is a perfect replacment for the 1.9TDI HP for HP and ft lb for ft lb.

But the 1.6TDI is now being replaced by a 1.4 TDI (not sure if 3 or 4 cyl though)

Progress folks, simply progress.

PS

The "boosted" 1.2TSI petrol is an absolute honey of an engine, despite being titchy in capacity AND petrol, it lugs like a diesel, quite astounding really.

PPS

I also put 253,000 miles on the 1.9TDI, on the origional head gasket.

Kept coolant topped up though, despite a Motorway leak that necessitated driving at 50mph until I reached the docks and water.

Drove on the temp needle rather than the speedo, which actually worked (it was a split/chafed through hose)

To be fair and honest the other half has a skoda fabia 1,9 tdi as a run around and its faster than a golf due to its lighter weight. Its never let her down engine wise. They are good motors without doubt. That said they also stuck them in the audi a6 which is no lightweight and then the transporter which isn't exactly small but the extra weight of vehicle you know your not in a golf anymore.

As far as the truck goes tho they have less aerodynamics than a housebrick and heavier which is why they've probably had to stick a second turbo on it. Question is. is it the same size turbos or mismatched? Mismatched ie 1 smaller than the other the smaller turbo will help the larger turbo spool up quicker and make its power delivery more tsi like than turbo.

The thing which will be debateable is the 1.9 tdi started out and was designed for 110 hp and 130 hp then they realised they could get reliability with 150 hp and now lets twin turbo it. Somewhere its going to spit its dummy

Amorak at the stable yard owned by a bloke is filthy .

You should tell them not to park it next to a big puddle then so everyone that drives past splashes it up on the truck

I would NOT slag off a smaller capacity engine for towing.

Look at the 1.0l Ecoboost Ford are fitting to their Mondeos n other models.

Or the VW/Skoda 1.2TSI, that pulls like a diesel.

The times they are a changing.

BUT

Do NOT expect to neglect the maintenance and get away wit it.

Use the correct oil, keep an eye on the dipstick, and simmer the turbo if working hard.

i.e. Dont just "pull the strangler"

From someone who worked a variable vane turbo on a 1.9TDI hard, and got 253,000 miles on it with ZERO maint.

True but....

Why the need to supercharge a 1200 car tho? If I was wanting something to tow with I would buy a bigger engined, higher weight vehicle that could tow a decent load with dragging the guts out the supercharger and blowing headgaskets.

Please don't mention fords to me, my transit which has just turned 1 year old has just gone in for its second main dealer service and the diesel filter housing broke as they unscrewed the diesel filter!! So much for reliability given its age and now they have to order in a replacement as don't keep one on the shelf..

NFG your spot on. I work on and have owned several disco 2/300's and spent many an hour welding chassis's, inner arches and boot floors!

What a dammed cheek!! I drive my Amarok to the job all the time. Fill the back with logs and tow a 12' ifor tipper with sticks. I love the thing, its a proper work horse and drives like a car. Sips fuel and is fast as @?!+:001_tt2::001_tt2:

Now that I would like to see. Most of the 5ft nothing drivers Ive seen are even capable ofeven reaching over the side of 1....

I grew up next door to a farm and have had a 90 and 2x 130 ' s..... does that count?!

Close enough for my degree of labelling

Ok this isn't meant to offend anyone/owners of said trucks.

My other half consistently reminds me of how I "label" pick ups.

Now the question is this a local or national trend?

Mitsibushi l200's (usually animals) - Normally town vehicles, driven by blondes picking up there kids from school and being badly parked clearly when said man about the house is out working a 70-80hr week for there upkeep.

Nissan navara, Now these are a bit unpredictable and either appear to be driven by someone of supervisory status or towing an ifor Williams.

Ford Ranger, always a work truck. Beaten around and never cleaned, normally with a boxy ex utility fibreglass back.

Isuzu Rodeo, normally the sign of a new business starter, for some reason the long time business's stick with what they know so don't bother.

Older Hilux, yes I do logs

Newer hilux, Im a builder or work along construction lines.

The landrover 90/110/130 Im a farmer, a farmers son or like off roading. I don't care if its unreliable tho as its cheap to fix.

VW Amarok,Well lets just say they wont be seeing any mud anytime soon. Ive never seen a speck of dirt on one.

Ring bells in your locality?

First few I bought where secondhand but the first 2 new ones I bought I still have, a stihl 026 and 023 both of 96 vintage,

Strangely enough I just rebuilt the 023 engine this week. First time its ever been opened up internally so hasn't done bad lasting 18 years.

It developed a quiet metallic wine which was the big end on the crank had so much slop in it im amazed it hadn't let go let alone be as quiet as it actually was.

Reckon its the same as this sucker

Sears micro

[ame]

Im sure someone will know.

But

Sears, roebuck and co where American (Chicago) and also use the name craftsman.

As for model Ihas it got any plate or marking on it anywhere?

Mike acres chainsaw site could be a good place to visit, do a google search for it

The little short piece that curves around and almost doubles back on itself? That's the impulse pipe. Just make sure its good when replaced. Slightly to long or to short they have a habit of kinking on the bend restricting flow.

Yeah that will cause it to run lean.

Good job sorted.

Oh and make sure you check chain sizeto be safe when you order as they can either be .325 or 3/8

Was the cylinder scored or just a lot of aluminium transfer?

The pistons seem soft on the 357's and normally don't tend to ruin the cylinder. They can normally be cleaned up quite well and reused and just a new piston/rings fitted.

What caused the problem or was it straight gassed?

I love Becky Falls. Did a survey in there whilst it was shut to the general public so had a day wandering around in there on my own looking at the trees. Happy days.

As you drive in to the car park and look down to the right theres a stream. That's the boundary and we have the other side the stream, Small triangular bit sectioned by the stream and the road. Nice little hideaway just used to camp at in the summer anda bonus the pubs a few hundred yards up the road

House of marbles, on the way in to bovey and haytor.

Im in Exeter, have a little camping spot/ couple acre wood down near manaton near where you both talk beside becky falls.

Most of my saw work is on an estate near Dunsford which isn't to far away from that direction either.

Keep saying I will do mine, atleast its not rubbish tho!

More a case of a dumping ground for anything from shotgun cartridges, tools of varing degrees, numerous screnches and files, paperwork, a trolley jack, a brand new car polisher/9" grinder, probably some ginsters pies and pastys from when I go without yet usually get eatan several days later, cans of relentless, a vice, half a dozen toolstation bags with bits in (you know the " I will buy it whilst im here" but have no purpose at that time for..) , even a few horse shoes in there! Oh and I really should sort out my fuel receipts before they get muddy due to the consol overflowing and them ending up on the floor....

Many thanks for the advice guys. I'm still not sure if the pipe with the plastic elbow takes the oil up to the bar hole. I think it's the feed from the tank, I blew it with the air line and could see the tank bulge It is firmly in there as well, I tried to remove it a little.

 

I will see if I can remove the pump tomorrow, I suspect it is a tapered shaft according to the diagrams.

I think you may find it is the bar feed pipe. It is possible you've blown an airline in the end its gone back thru the pump and back in the tank the opposite way the oil feeds to the bar.

You should be able to tell If you look at page 3 on the ipl and the pipework 15/16/17/18 that's the feed pipe that takes the oil from the tank to feed into the oilpump. Find out where that goes to on the oil pump and it should be straight forward.

Is there any chance of a close up pic of the pump and bar feed hole?

Scored piston. Will probably send it to spud on here and see what he can do with it.

Ah that sucks. . Make sure the inlet manifold gets checked as they are plastic and a bit prone to cracking causing an airleak. I may have a good s/h original 394 piston in my spares box if yours is damaged if you get stuck. It will need new rings tho.

If the bores damaged you would be wise to do the 395 conversion with the 395 rubber inlet manifold etc

That's good to hear.

Number one is the really tricky one.... some kind of hybrid Turkey oak??

Well it does sound a bit like it but as I say im no expert really. I don't really specialise in breeds but do cut quite a few beech and oak including turkey. They are always much straighter and a higher canopy as a rule compared to other oak. They just end up as firewood as altho they are long and straight the wood doesn't seem to have much purpose/use altho I read somewhere it meant to be good in water as in making stantions for footbridges and alike. Prob as your more likely to use it straightaway and not bother quite so much about seasoning and it twisting etc.

Finally got the sparkless 026 running. Still no idea what it was:

 

3 coils, all with very similar resistance across primary and secondary.

 

2 flywheels, both seem fine.

 

All wiring torn down and tested/replaced.

 

Only one coil will produce spark, but test results show virtually no difference between this coil and the other 2.

 

Funny. Oh well.

 

Try cleaning around the screw holes on the saw body the coil bolts on to with a bit of emery paper so it can earth well on the mountings not just by using the screws. Ive seen it more than once although normally on the bigger husqvarnas where bad earths fail to give spark or you get just a weak spark.

1) Tree one was straight until 3m (10ft), then the trunk has bends for another 3m (10ft) until it reaches the main branches of the canopy. Had a few small side branches. Fairly round, but not perfectly round.

 

2) The trunk on tree two (with the hairy buds) was very straight until 6m (20ft), I don't remember having to remove any side branches from the trunk on that one. I would say it was very round.

 

3) Tree three was a bit more bendy and with more side branches. Not perfectly round.

No2 then sounds like a prime candidate for turkey oak to me especially with the hairy buds. Im no expert tho.

No3 doesn't seem to have the usual characteristics of most of the turkey oaks I see.

Hi folks, I've got an issue with my Dolmar 133s. It's not oiling so I removed the clutch for a look. The two retaining screws were missing from the pump housing for a start and the feed pipe was disconnected.

 

I put new screws in and connected the pipe but when I fired it up I can see the oil seems to be coming from behind the pump rather than out from the hole it's supposed to be coming out of

 

Do I need a puller to remove the clutch hub? I'd like to get the pump off and check theres nothing broken or blocked. I'm also not 100% sure how the oil gets from the pump up to the oil hole normally, if someone could give me a simple explanation I'd appreciate it

This should help you hopefully

Look at Page 6 Item 8 (pipe seems longer in the ipl possibly as been said?)

http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/partslist/dolmarpartslist995700057.pdf

I think the clutch centre needs to be just pulled off using a puller or slide hammer using the 3 m5 holes. if I remember rightly it just sits on a tapered shaft.