wisecobandit

The blade is small but good, just need to be clued up about splitting like using a axe.

Light weight splitter as well.

Think about it..

Its more likely to split easier/better as you have more pressure on a smaller area but know what your getting at.

The pitfall is when your on stringy stuff as it wont cut thru so wide like a wider blade so you end up pulling more apart.

You certainly wont get a smaller blade stuck as much as a wider blade.

Hi wiseco . 385 got stolen a while bake mate . Got a 390 to replace it and spud ported it . My bog standard 3120 42" bar is back on the bay for sale if any one is interested .

Jon mendiplogs has put summit in the 395/3120 thread mate re the 120.

How come its back on? you get a timewaster? I fancy 1 but not this side of xmas unfortunately due to the xmas expense etc.

Ah that's a bugger. Didnt realise about the 385 sorry to here that mate.

Lol, knowing stubby runs saws similar to mine with dual ports etc im not asking no more ;-P

You done your 385 now stubby?

Which side cover you need ? Main or small cover ? 13 np correct.

Have got some bits might have a crank too.

Has your con rod gone ? Crank might be ok with alloy cleaned off.

Chris

Im after the main side cover on the power output side.

Yeah its 13hp.

Its more a case of im using an electric start 390 engine out a generator for a log splitter im building. Unfortunatly its a tapered crankshaft rather than a keyway crankshaft which altho do-able it makes life a bit harder mounting the hydraulic pump as the lovejoys are only available for the keyway cranks.

Likewise the cover on the engine doesn't have the 4 holes in the ring around the crankshaft output as being tapered the generator part actually just uses a bolt thru its centre and bolts into the centre of the crankshaft rather the into the cover if that makes sense.

It can be done but be ready for lots of cursing and swearing.

Even the dealers will try and wriggle there way out of rebuilding them.

Mine's still in place and never had a problem with it. But also, one woodland the saw gets used in, the owner specifies all saws must have spark arresters fitting. Even on cold soaking set days. I suppose it's easier to make one rule fits all occasions, than mess around with, if A fits BC, then it's ok to Z with a purple nose in the great abyss of geranium wellies.

Hope you never have to use a bigger Husqvarna saw in there as none of them have spark arrestors fitted

Wisecobandit-pics of the saw as asked. Serial no shows built in 2014 , sixth week. Stubby- my wife fell about laughing with your last comment :lol:

But on a serious note I bought a brand new 560xp 18" bar begining of the year (due to scum nicking my 357) and I am delighted with it power etc... So when I thought of replacing the sthil 056av with a 395xp I thought I was going to be pleased also:thumbup1:

Spud-what do you think about my compression reading ?

I guess I just want to know that the saw is preforming as it should. Was thinking of replacing the knackered 24"bar and chain for a 28" set up, but Iam concerned about how it will handle this ..... Comments please...

Certainly as you say its genuine. The compression gauge pic the sticker looked silver like some of the dodgy Chinese jobs.

It should as others have put certainly pull a 24" bar with authority. First thing I would check is the basics like carb tune as off the production line they are set rich which can zap power and maybe a new plug and air filter clean.

Remember the factory settings for a 395 will be beyond rich. They are sold new with 3 different bar lengths so the saw is set up rich and ive never seen a new saw sold where the dealer has actually tuned the saw in accordance to the bar size.

You've probably guessed by now about binning it.

All they do is block things up and make the saw run hotter.

It definetly looks like a genuine saw in the compression gauge pic, however what does confuse me me is the silver sticker (cte mark or whatever it is)

I have to say ive never seen one on a Husqvarna 395!!

Any chance of some more pics of the saw?

Bit of a long shot I know but worth asking. Not worried if its genuine or clone

Im after side crankcase cover and possibly a crank. Seems I either get ripped off buying in the UK or have to pay as much in postage as the parts are worth from the U.S (which is still cheaper than the uk!)

Im not expecting something for nothing so sensible beer tokens and postage can be arranged

Def do the muffler mod on a 395xp.

As for comparing it against another saw unless your in bigger wood what its meant for its hardly a comparison.

Stick a 357/ms260/398xp/ms880 in a 12 or 15" bit of wood you wont see much difference between any of them. Stick them in much bigger wood you soon start to see the difference.

If the saws barely been used then chances are it could gain 15-20 psi. Normally takes 10 tanks of fuel to get them to there best and bed the rings in.

I think you find yourself a bit apprehensive when you don't need to be as they are straight forward to fit. (im assuming its the x 2 c type springs?)

They fitted different spring systems tho on them and they also fitted a single spring on early ones (easy to fit to) and also a 3 spring system similar to the stihls which can be a bit of a sod and need the clutch removing from the saw, but fit one side of the spring and pull the other end with a good pair of pliers and maybe a small screwdriver to guide it into place/the hole.

Its a bit hard to explain but you will get there with it.

As Spuds says.

Or if you have a mig welder place a nut over the top of the bolt and weld down the centre of the nut and use a socket.

Think its a bit of a case of you pay your money you take the risk.

Ive used a couple of the Chinese copys on saws and never had an issue but have heard a few reports of leaking tanks at the seams but given the amount sold v the "odd" problem and the fact they normally are quite happy to send a no quibble replacement im happy to try them.

That said if it where a newish saw I would buy OE given the fact that sometimes colour match can be slightly off and the originality side of things.

Im sure Eddie or Barry will be along soon to comment but as far as im aware its usually recommended to put a new fuel line and carb kit/diaphragms in as a matter of course and away you go.

You could try it as is but you may find the above may need replacing quite quickly.

Carb clean and check the carb diaphragms would be my first check on it.

Dry normally.

Yes certainly retune after fitting a shorter bar.

You cant tune a saw in wood as such as blunt chains, leaning weight on the saw, hard or soft wood etc will make a major difference.

Most saws should have a slight stutter out the wood unloaded but if its cleaning up in the wood it doesn't sound far off.

By far in my mind the best way of checking tune is by colour of the plug as you say tho as even tachos can be cheaply/poorly made and react slowly giving you false readings.

When you say slight pop from the exhaust that could be a few things. Running rich can cause it but also a bad/leaking gasket between the cylinder and exhaust or even a pin prick hole in the exhaust allowing air to be drawn in.

I cant comment on the coil tho I would imagine it would be limited as most are nowadays.

Me to, I love looking at and inspecting other peoples diy gear.

I spy a mcconnel/bamford hedgetrimmer hydraulic tank and possible ram on that logsplitter lol.

Im using a hedgetrimmer ram to altho a slightly smaller diameter one than yours I believe simply because I want a faster action. ( I had the pick out off all the rams) Any idea what size and throw yours is?

Im incorporating/making a hydraulic tank come axle tube as an all in one.

Lump of 8x8 35kg I beam

16 gallon twin stage pump

On the look out for a Honda 13hp engine if one crops up next and a suitable axle or indespension type units.

We have a homemade tractor splitter but out in the woods we usually have the winch on the tractor hence why the trailed splitter is being made to hopefully make life easier.

Pretty much always rings.

Will be using it vertical to split "fresh felled green" big rings of beech and oak out in the woods and then more seasoned smaller stuff at home horizontally.

Fed up of busting my backside loading 30"+ rings into a 3 1/2t trailer in the woods...

Depends what parts your after for the 076?

Most bits are still available new as Agg says.

Yeah that makes sense mate.

Ive got some digger bucket hard facing welding rods I can use for the blade edge.

Just wandering what thickness blade to use and whether to incorporate a slight wedge after its cut into the log an inch or so to help crack the log open. Ideal for easy splitting logs but not so good for stringy stuff. Trying to find the happy medium I guess.

As Timtree says they had injector problems. The diesel would leak past the seals and fill the sump causing the engine to self explode by running on.

Isuzu where very good at replacing the above probably due to the fact they probably passed the cost on to caterpillar whos engine it actually was.

The injectors are coded/numbered so you can tell if they have been replaced.

Great trucks in my opinion.

I would buy another just make sure you keep an eye on the oil level. If it increases then the injectors are at fault.

The other issue that crops up is an oil pressure switch under the rocker cover which can fail causing injector pump issues. The injector pump runs off the oil pressure. If this happens and needs replacing then go to Vauxhall to get the pressure switch as its about £30 cheaper than going to Isuzu. Remember Vauxhall just rebadged the 3ltr trooper.

So what preferences in particular would you choose or find that works best if you had a choice?

The obvious is a thinner blade for stringy stuff a reasonable wedge for easy splitting stuff but if you had the choice of making/designing your own what would you go for?

Im amassing the "stock" to build my own, road tow petrol splitter which can be used in both vertical and horizontal positons. Most of what I split is usually beech and oak generally.

Im thinking an inch of blade going into a smaller wedge but also wandering whether to slightly angle the blade so the top of the log comes into contact first to help grip it in and a smaller initital area which theoretical should have a higher pressure impact point to aid the split

066 is 52mm Eddy the 066 magnum is 54 mm.

52mm 066 is ideal for big bore 372's