wisecobandit

I have had a few bits dropped off by customers over the last week. First up is an MS025 which wouldn't start having not been used for a year. A quick clean of the air filter and some fresh fuel has got it running but it stalls when coming off the throttle, so need to retune the carb a bit. Before I can do that I need to it a new starter cord as the current one is broken.

 

Secondly I have a FS44 which is down on compression and the customer wants fixing as cheaply as possible. The cylinder looks in good shape so will give it a bit of a clean up and install new rings and see how it goes after that.

 

Finally the most interesting one is a jonsered 2083. Apparently it used to be a fantastic saw but just failed to start one day. A quick check down the exhaust port showed that it had seized. Unfortunately parts are no longer available. The cylinder is salvageable so I am fitting a piston from an 066 as it is a very close match, though is slightly taller from the top of the gudgeon pin hole to the crown so should have a bit more compression than standard. Now I just need to track down the cause of the seizure. A pressure and vaccum check showed it losing 2psi pressure over 8 minutes and then held steady, and it lost all vacuum in under 2 minutes. After lunch I will try and find which seal has gone, and then have some fun trying to find a suitable replacement.

To fit the 066 piston you will also have to remove a minor amount off the insides of the piston wrist pin holes as it wont fit over the small end of the conrod normally. You don't have to remove much.

Drawing m 7/8th of the way down

http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/2056359/ms181-ms181c-pl-pdf-july-9-2010-10-12-am-446k?da=y

Sounds possibly like a check valve failure in the carb.

When you pump the primer does it just appear to just carry on being soft or does it get hard after 3-4 pumps without the engine running?

Hi mate would love the see the 395 I use to have a 660 so know what they are like good saw don't get me wrong reason for changing is so bars, chains are universal

Well if your around 1 weekend and got some bigger wood handy gimme a shout. I got a 28" 3/8 for the 395, and a 394 (much the same saw) with a 36" .404

I prefer the .404 in 36" over the 3/8

I had a good one tonight not a saw tho but basically the same!

Partner k650 disc cutter which I bought as "spares or repair" due to "overfuelling" issues.

So the carb was stripped and straight away my eyes popped out my head. Not only was the needle height set to the top of the carb which is about 2mm to high but also a loose welch plug that hadn't been swollen into place and to cap it off someone had actually fitted the fuel filter gauze fitted underneath it! (the welch plug)

Rule number 1: never EVER lend saws out! Especially ported saws!

I have always been lucky until now, as far as repairs go, it has always been simple repairs, split hoses and fuel based seizes. Stupidly, work asked to borrow a big saw, so I lent my ported 385 out. Today I have received it back with the words 'it's broken, it was running and cut out' so I stripped the muffler to see if it had seized or caught a ring. The rings were perfect and the piston was clean, so I took the cylinder off and immediately found the problem. The big end has gone... Spat a bearing and killed the piston. Oddly the cylinder lives and is perfect, so I'm in the process of stripping the saw to rebuild. The reason is either poor mix or incorrect warming of the saw. To say I'm pissed off is an understatement!

Eddy ive got a brand new crank here if you want to make me an offer? (got new oe seals and gasket kit to I believe)

Sounds more like its been over revving? Do you know what it was tached up at?

What do you prefer over 660 with the 395 mate?

Josh, im only Exeter so if you get a big bit of wood ive got a new 660 and a new 395 if you want a comparison.

And if you want to add into the mix a 394 and 385/390

No reason why you cant sell a ported saw on ebay. However it probably wont make much more than a standard run of the mill 346 saw. Just depends if 2 people want itr badly enough I guess.

Saw prices will also most likely start going up over the next month on ebay. I got a couple to stick on there including a 394 as ive got to many and need to actually use the new/boxed 395 ive had stuck in the cupboard for nearly a year....

Yup they are m5x20mm long.

Smear a tadge of gasket sealer or Loctite/superglue on the threads to stop them undoing.

IF its only for use for that particular trailer then another option is to fit a 12v powered hydraulic unit to the trailer itself? (like what the 3.5 tonne ifors etc have)

By the time you've bought a pto pump, hydraulic tank etc it would probably work out cheaper.

12V Single Acting Hydraulic Power Packs for Trailer Tipper Applications

Unusual in a poplar. Normally found in thorny bushes as a rule. Also they can line the nest with clay.

Smart little buggers when they want to be.

Been a bit manic with actual proper work this week (including popping in to see Gardenkit/Barry)

This week has involved 2 engine rebuilds on a ms230 and an 021 due to crank seals. Cant believe the ms230 actually ran albeit poorly as 1 seal the centre of the seal had totally deteriorated from the outer ring.

Next an 026 with a bad impulse line.

An interesting 357 which I will go into when I get chance with a few pics etc due to the pot actually being fractured and broken near the base yet still ran with bad airleak issues! Still ongoing as waiting for a carb kit.

This afternoon ive been playing with wickamulla 's 365 hybred and fitted an 064 piston etc

Had some very interesting news today, it seems I am PMing a member on this site all the time asking for his help on how to fix saws.

 

I have only ever had help from Barrie (Gardenkit) on a few tricky spares and also Burrell (Martin) who kindly has done some machining for me to my specification and it was neither of them:001_rolleyes: I have discussions on porting with WYK (Wes) but that is very much a sharing of interests rather than help - sort of US meets UK:thumbup: Wasn't him either!

 

I guess I should laugh at it as it has shown up someone elses insecurity but am none to happy TBH!

Name and shame lol

I thought I might share this. A 4yr old Tanaka 27cc brushcutter from a local garden centre came in for what they thought was a simple recoil repair. But the engine was siezed tight. A couple of minutes the exhaust off for piston inspection, but the piston looked fine, so another 5 minutes and the pot was off (these tanakas are so easy to work on)

 

It appears that a needle roller from the big end bearing had come out and found its way up the transfer port. It was then picked up by the piston and pushed up to the top of the cylinder. At this point the piston wedged tight.

 

This is the first mechanical failure of a Tanaka engine (i.e not fuel or oil related) that I have ever seen in 25 years of selling and servicing the product.

 

The engine has gone away to Tanaka for warranty investigation.

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Still amazed it had more damage to the plated bore than on the softer alloy piston Barry.

365 is ideal.

Bargain price so make sure its a genuine and check the serial number etc as the first 2 numbers denote year of manufacture.

Should be fine if the oil specs are 50/1, you could try 40/1 if you are concerned.

Agreed

Theres a little ball bearing type ball in them that sticks up. Sometimes you can just free them up bya squirt of oil gently sticking a needle or pin in the hole just to get it moving again. You don't want to seal it up as it acts as the tank breather.

They aren't to expensive to replace the cap tho.

A 660 magnum (dual ported muffler) has more power than a 661 Jon, so go figure

I think im getting old.

Im starting to develop a severe dislike all this modern technology of ecu's and alike. An old saw with a carb can almost always be tuned,retimed, muffler modded and ported etc and a tweak the carb and off you go. New saws will have to have the ecu reset everytime you make an adjustment if you want to take full advantage. Also when it breaks down parts on older saws are normally much cheaper than newer stuff and especially the new stihl strato saws as they've certainly hiked the parts prices up on them.

Do I sound like a granddad yet? Lol

They just don't make em like they used to....

ive always used the same seals in them and never heard of or seen "a second type"

Maybe they have just superceded a part number tho as the use the same seals in some of the newer strimmers.

As per Ray says strip it down to replace them. I wouldn't try pulling them to replace them as there is a lip on each side of the half moons which holds them central. Chances are you may pull the old ones but you wouldn't fit the new ones easily without damage plus they really need a bit of dirko or sealer on them.

Are you adjusting the carb correctly?

The L screw should be set a fraction rich from the highest rpm setting and then the idle screw adjusted to bring the idle to where it should be.

You shouldn't be touching your L screw to set your tickover.

044 (the old 10mm wrist pin version) with 16 inch bar and full chisel chain on an 8 tooth sprocket, my favourite firewood saw

They are a great saw I loved mine, and actually sold it to someone in Belgium!

The downside is if the piston goes you will struggle to get a replacement now and also they cant take the 460 topend big bore conversion.

They spool up quicker than the later 12mm 044 and ms440's tho for sure.

The 346xpg is my favourite saw for most of my cutting, but I always use chisel chain on it (LP/LPX or RS/RSC).

 

The MS250 is a cheaply made "homeowner" saw, and at best a bad joke in comparison - but it is of course lighter, if it is one without to many "add-ons".....

That's one fight you will never win getting me to like a 346 especially the xpg.

Theres a massive weight difference even against the unheated handle 346 and you can use the 250 one handed if needed unlike the 346.

In the right places like hedging or chipping the 250 would be my choice. The 346 is a "in the forest" saw but then I would rather use my 357 in those circumstances.

Like for like I would say if kept up maintenance wise the 250 is no less reliable than the 346. That said the 250 in its "homeowner" status and price is a saw people wont bother maintaining and its pitfall is people not greasing the drum bearing which is there main failure.

You can also have the engine out and rebuilt in an hour on a 250 for half the price as you would on a 346 and it would take 3-4 times the amount of time on the 346. I fail to see how a "professional" saw should take 3-4 times longer to rebuild than a "houseowner" saw that is capable of doing the same work.

Even the stihl fuel line can be replaced in 5 minutes whereas the Husqvarna fuel line is a royal P.I.T.A

I can see why the 346 has its following but I certainly wont be in that queue.

I like the look of the 562 moreso than the 560.

Likewise tho they have suffered with the plagued brake band issue also.

If its filed to 30 then it's just the same as rm the old 'non comfort' semi chisel chain... sure it's not 36rmx? That is listed as currently available, why yours is 30°is a mystery tho

It maybe 36rmx the printed label is a bit smudged and its old so not that clear so could be 36. Its definetly 30 degree out the box new tho.

So whats the crack with "non comfort" semi chisel if it is 36rmx?

Im starting to wander if its the wrong chain in a different box as even 36rmx is listed as 10 degree. However the rakers are low and not what I would expect on "normal" semi/chisel chain.

iam too late as well 2012 1900 325

Made between the 7th and 11th of may 2012 then