wisecobandit

You need to check the kerf.

Theres the latest .043 micro then theres .050 .058 and .063

There are the 4 above different widths now available for .325 chain

Sounds like you have the next width up from what your bar is meant for. As mentioned previously it will be on the bar.

The bar should be stamped with the correct chain size etc to use then compare it to the chain.

Theres normally a number stamped on the chain you can google if it doesn't state which.

It certainly sounds like a chain issue if your old ones where fine with it. Take it you've done the obvious and cleaned the bar groove etc.

Can you rotate the clutch drum ok with the side cover off? It should spin quite easily with no friction from the clutch. If you cant then its clutch related. If you've had it apart you did line up the drum to sit into the oiler plastic disc kit goes back against didn't you and not misalign it.

Yup, seal up dem holes Ahhhhhh Yeah as we say dawn sarf:sneaky2::lol:

 

I just put a small circular disk of gasket material down the hole and then reassembled, worked a treat but is a good device to stop the saw seizing in it's normal tune. Don't take it as the issue the OP has though, it may be tht the H screw is just a little too far out - should be set at one turn out!

Is that a tillotson carb by any chance?

Sounds exactly the same as what you do on the stihl 051/075/076 and throws in extra fuel to limit it?

I just use a small punch and bit of ally coke can

Check you haven't knocked a clutch spring off somehow during fitting the brake band.

The brakeband has no relation really to the chain spinning when being pulled over.

Doesn't look like you have any safe places it could have been left, I prefer them to leave it somewhere in the yard for me but they don't seem to like doing that recently, even at remote locations. Beats driving to there depot for it

If your aware you have a parcel coming most delivery companys will accept a hand written note asking you to leave the parcel at a said location PROVIDED it is signed and the delivery driver can take it away with him as proof,

It pays to ask delivery drivers when you see them what there policys are tho. With fedex you can sign a waiver which last for 12 mths that allows them to leave parcels at your desired point if your out and everyones happy.

Most couriers have set rounds so if they know your happy with it being left somewhere and they are aware they are normally pretty good if they are happy with them.

On the other hand if someone "trys it on" or moans/arguementitive with said courier trust me when I say they will go out there way to make your life hard and wont rush to deliver your parcel or leave it safe etc and make you pick it up from the depot forever more.

Looks like your spoilt to aspenarb!

I could never up sticks and move away far. Down here we have Dartmoor and Exmoor, and beaches all within a 20-30 minute drive away. The money may not be so readily available and flowing as most countys but there are a lot of other bonus's and theres lots of bartering and "I owe you a favour" types that we where our way through.

And its always helpful if possible to add the required chain length to the desired bar and a direct link to said chain/chain options on the bar your looking at. If its only 1 click away people will be more tempted to buy when adding a bar to the cart and then going searching for a chain in a totally separate area.

To be fair its a tricky situation.

Most of the scanners will only have "outbuilding/shed" "garage" or "porch" as options on them and the delivery driver will only be allowed to leave if the supplier has used a service to do so.

Now like it or not a delivery driver has no "duty bound" to leave any parcel with a neighbour. Basically you've ordered the goods so should be there to accept them in the eyes of the delivery company rules.

Weve actually had cases where neighbours have accepted deliverys and then the customer says they "supposedly" havent received the goods but the neighbours assures us they came and collected the parcel!

The driver goes out his way in effect for YOU to deliver a parcel to a neighbour. He will get his pay if the parcels delivered or not. Only takes a few minutes you say? Well put a few extra minutes on 75-100 deliverys a day and that's several hours!

Leaving in a rubbish recycle bin is a big no no whatever company you work for (my hermes seem to be happy doing it tho!!)

Its a case of hes trying/attempting to keep a happy medium of customers happy getting the parcels to them. Now im not saying WHERE he has left them was correct by a long shot but do understand that customers will moan if they don't get there parcels despite not being in to receive them.

Now the next thing which people should know is most scanners now being phased in have gps on and can be pinpointed to where the parcel was signed for or left within 2 mtrs. Now that's working from a security aspect from both sides A) to cover the driver to enable hes delivered to the right location etc and B) If the driver hasn't been to your property but "says" said parcel has been delivered he will be down the road in an instant.

I understood the electronic to refer to the ignition instead of the points and condenser and the quick stop to the chain brake as opposed to not having one not meaning that the brake was applied electronically just that it has both as added features.

You are correct in your understanding.

Wicklamulla theres a few 036's with the secondary brake on the handle aswell.

If its a super and not just plain cc its likely a 110 so would be 87cc running .404 chain etc.

It should say "cc super" on the clutch/bar cover (which is held on by 1 nut)

Now I don't know the ins and outs and the likes of Shavey and timber cutter Dartmoor are the dolmar "boys" who will know more

Age is late 60's early 70's. Price ive not got a clue so wouldn't hazard a guess on its worth. I would think its more collectable if it is the 87cc super tho over the plain cc saws.

Possibly a dolmar cc super I believe?

No doubt Shavey and TCD will prob know.

No its 2 hen birds (pheasants) although sometimes theres a "regular" herd of 18 fallow and a few roe about that frequent these fields.

Only a week left on the fallow does tho. Weve had 6-8 this season but don't want to push them away being greedy.

And my other half wanders why I sneak off to the "out the way" workshop whenever I get chance on a saturday...

Taken from the large door of the workshop Noone to worry about upsetting starting up chainsaws at any time.

Some saws will crystalize up in the oil pump or line using veg oul. It also bakes itself onto the cylinder and is a pig to remove. Never used it myself but can say the above due to the veg oil saws I've worked on that's used it.

I got unlucky with an MS660 once, nothing would shift the bearing and eventually used loads of heat and a puller but it shagged the bearing! Know what you mean by Huskys, very tight!

Best thing with the husqys is using a husqy splitter they stay in the crankcase as the splitter holds them in situ. It certainly does the same on 660's and alike prob down to about 034/ms340 size. Below that theres a smaller splitter and keep meaning to make a downscale version but never had the need. You can just reduce the splay of the arms inside the crankcase of the larger splitter and it would work but never had anything that small stubborn enough.

As for reinstallation on huskys as you prob know Spud I find it easiest to fit the bearings on the crank first then warm up the crankcases to install the "ready bearing'd crank. Never had to stoop to having to have to put the crank in the freezer yet to contract the crank assembly down tho cussed a bit on a few 395's

1 of the bearings is still on the crank just don't want to make a mess of it

Just tap it off gently with a drift, it will be fine (I take it your replacing them anyway?)

Just make sure to put the end of the crank on a block of wood and if its the flywheel side screw the nut on so its flush with the end of the crank so you don't damage the threads.

The stihl bearings aren't that tight and compared to husqvarnas

If your that bothered use a puller on it put its likely you will have to tap it slightly anyway to get the feet of the puller around the back off the bearing. Ive never used or felt the need to use a puller and prob rebuilt 100 saws.

Just tap the old bearings out using an appropriate socket and hammer on the 026. Make sure you tap the socket square on with a hammer and they will pop out without to many issues. Once they start to move they will literally fall out.rankcas

The stihl crankcases are usually easy to split and when you put them back together a few taps and pulling them up evenly on all the bolts will see it close up easy enough.

When you do a Husqvarna that's when you want heat and a crankcase splitting tool.

Weld is normally stronger than the material what is actually being welded.

However that is when welded properly. Sounds more like there hasn't been good penetration on the weld by what you said in your initial post.

Mig is fine upto about 5mm material. Thicker than that normally comes into the arc category.

If bits have broken off you should be able to visually inspect the weld and its normally pretty obvious if the weld hasn't penetrated well.

Do you mean Picco Super ?

 

I like to put a tank of fuel through any saw that I've fixed, must have put 20 or more through this one.

Yeah super3 ps3 or something like that.

Sounds like your giving the saw a good roadtest

The only problem I get with mine is the start switch keeps popping out, which makes it feel like there's starting problems. Totally misses half choke. It's worked perfectly apart from that, it's worked every day and is 3 years old.

The 170's suffered an issue where the top of the clip that the shaft clips into breaks off and they pop out?

Ive got stihl rsc full chisel 3/8 lp chain on mine and only briefly sharpened it once.

I used to use a 170 whilst in the hedge laying and it was ideal, light enough to stick outside the hedge and grab 1 handed when required and sling around and not tire yourself out. That said I don't find the 250 much heavier to use and the extra power comes in handy on the bigger stuff.

I rebuilt a 1997 023 a few months ago which got used 3 days a week since the day it was bought new and altho its had a few fuel lines.impulse lines and carb kit its the first time the engines ever been opened up so its done over 25 years! The big end on the crank was worn right out yet still ran fine just noisey. If looked after it just goes to show they will last.

Sounds like you may want to change your dealer. If theres an L and H screw then they are fully adjustable. There maybe limiters fitted but they are bypassable and ive never seen them on a 181.

Don't accept the offer of £50 either. you will make double that on ebay. You could prob get a new carb for £50 on ebay.com from America.

Certainly the zama c1q 268 they put on them 181 is adjustable. (same as the 211)

Had the op 18 months ago. Went in for the op at 11am woke up at midday and on the way home after having a sandwich and cuppa by 12.30

First week was painful but after that wasn't to bad. I got told 6 weeks off but took 4. After 2 weeks I wasn't to bad and prob could've gone back but waited a further 2 to play safe.

After about 6 months it got painful again and turns out they've cut through my nerve endings and will have the pain now forever more. Since then they've told me its a 1 in 8 chance of that happening but never told me that in the op build up.

They happily told me 1 in 200 can end up infertile or 1 in every 200,000 can reject the mesh but not the most common thing!!

That said I never gave it a thought not to have the op. If its happened it wont repair itself and will only get worse not having the op. I was just unlucky and altho the pains there because its constant you almost forget its there. I did have a choice off tablets but they where also used for depression!! Hell the prescription went in the bin..