openspaceman

I suspect this is a genuine LOLER question from another industry but the rules should be the same in that a person is being suspended. I predate LOLER somewhat but my understanding is if the sling is textile based it has a life of 5 years, if it has no date into service then there is no telling how long it has been used and hence it is not fit for the purpose. Any LOLER inspectors care to correct me? I think @Fran1 may have left in disappointment.

Great for first thinning scots pine but a bit slow for knotting out hardwood.

Happy Birthday Doug and a bit belatedly Maybelateron but later suits you.

not yet, I need to dremel out a slot in the bar. I wore out the solid nose bar on the 2100 years ago so just wanted to fit a stihl bar from my 084 to give it some use.

I've tried this with 0.404 Stil bar on my Husky 2100;while matching the tensioner was easy as was an adapter plate the oil holes was the big problem.

There were always a few tie straps and presets left over from a 100ft reel when I used to make my own but they are available separately, you would need to check these were the right make, pitch and gauge: Stihl 3669-660-6000A Saw Chain Joining Links 1/4" & 0.043" WWW.NEWSAWCHAINS.CO.UK Stihl 36696606000A / 3669 660 6000 For joining Stihl 1/4" pitch Picco chainsaw chains, 0.043" (1.1mm) gauge . I.e the 3670...

A prunus species, the smell of the sawdust would be the giveaway.

Yes I realise no feed rollers and you have answered that the feed doesn't grab because of that small "window". As I said this is effectively a safety aid. Love to see a demo some time.

This is something I do not understand; as wood is strong in tension it must mean the front bit of log is completely severed before the blade has contacted the next, otherwise it would be ripped out of your hand. This means it fails safe and no need for an emergency stop bar as on a chipper. Going for a pair of larger diameter cutting wheels to increase the log length would lose this feature as the next log would only be part cut as the front one was severed.

That is cold, lowest I remember seeing was -18 when working at Sandhurst when things down south kicked off. 63 was colder but we did fahrenheit then 🙂. The problem was exacerbated with HGVs as at the time many had their fuel filters on the chassis, so exposed to both the slipstream air and the slush thrown up. This slush was cold brine so already below 0C, couple this with unsaturated air whizzing past which evaporated the moisture driving the temperature further down. Kits of electric resistance tape had to be wrapped around the filters to keep them warm. I added a bit of petroil to the tractor tanks.

Diesel doesn't so much freeze but rather waxes dissolved in it precipitate out, this wax then blocks the fuel filters, so in the past the refineries produced a summer grade and a winter grade which had a lower waxing point. I think the same winter grade has been used year round since the 80s.

Don't earth wires have to be hard wired rather than spades that can pull part?

I wondered about this from comments I had seen elsewhere, I'm guessing because the larger diameter stems get gripped earlier but severed at the same spot that they are longer than thinner ones. Never having seen one working close up I also assume that the way one can pull a length back and the feed stops that it is the momentum that keeps the stem moving as the wood is severed before the next chunk is gripped. This is probably a safety feature?? Back in the mid 70s Hyatt Adams had the first chunker I saw working at an APF show. One held the length of wood and pushed it through a cutout in a rotating disc. The first thing that hit the wood was a spike that split it then the blade in the cutout severed the wood, one then rotated the wood and pushed it against a stop for the next cut, if you got it right each piece cut off was split in 4. It was faster than sawing but not as fast as this remet, length could be set by the stop and it was consistent. About the same time a friend in Wales had a stanley log processor which was a log shear and splitter combined but it was also relatively slow. I wish I had a more engineering bent as I would like to have a machine with the attributes of speed and no sawdust but consistent longer length. Bigger diameter drive wheels and a more positive feed would allow a branch stripper to sit in front. Safety would become an issue.

How consistent and what length?

Pictures would have been nice; taper lock pulleys can normally be screwed apart by inserting one of the holding bolts into a half-hole-half-thread between the inner and outer parts. I decided long ago that I would be happy to burn sticks between 1" and 4" diameter but I would like them a length between 7-12" long as long as the length was consistent.

Yes and they are different coils for mk1 and mk2. Watch the price mk2 used to be a lot more, about 80 quid, than the other and some dealers may still have stock at a higher price. See:

They eventually oxidise, which is the way old fashioned oil paints dry, so they start out thin then go gummy.

It has capacitor discharge ignition, the magnets in the flywheel charge up a capacitor and then as they pass the trigger pick up transistors dump the charge into the coil which generates the spark. The motor has to spin at more than 400rpm before this happens. All the electronics are embedded in the coil encapsulation and modern coils also advance the ignition as revs increase.

That sound is very nasty, look after yourself and don't mix booze with the antibiotics. At this time of year you may need to boost your vitamin D

Yes . I still have 3 bigger saws that seldom got used, I can barely heft the 084 above my waist, still comes out occasionally and well over 30 years old. It has probably run less than 100 hours whereas the 60cc saws probably did 1000 hours/annum

That's my view, waving 400g less about all day 250 days a year is worth replacing the saw every year. Mind I don't know how much motor manual timber harvesting is done nowadays, since harvesters crashed the price such that manual work is not competitive even if given wood.

A very long time ago on development sites we would dig and windrow them and pass over with a mulcher, the digger and rake then sorting out bigger stuff for another pass. Everything then put in a bund with topsoil for use landscaping at the end of building.

@Dan Maynard as an illustration of my point have a look at this photo I took today on a site where volunteers had done some control of laurel invading a woodland. The ring barking was done two years ago and you can see the tree has carried on increasing girth above the cuts but interestingly the tree above the cut is attempting to put down rootlets. There were no likely root grafts.

I saw that earlier thread and It's why I got my cheapy grinder, fair enough leaving laterals, you can pull them up later if they are in the way, but not much you can do if the main stump is just lurking 6" down in a planting spot.

I agree that reduction is pointless and won't achieve anything but the tree was topped long ago from the sight of the stub and I would not expect much rot at that point. If it gets felled a photo of the joint cross section would be interesting. What has happened is that two branches from below the cut have taken over and then fought for apical dominance. As such I would expect the union to be strong, not like a pollarded broadleaf where the union of adventitious shoots would be poor.