tree-fancier123

The anchor trip adjusting bar could get knocked while working, making it harder to release. Testing the setting and Duck/insulating taping it firm may help. The comments asking why you'd want reusable, surely if its just a thin cable tie and you cant fell the top out in one it will need one for each position until the dead stem is low enough. No way would I want bondage grade cable ties, the thick ones probably hold 200kg

Yes Screwfix are nearly always dearer for branded tools than Ebay or Amazon You need 1000Nm because fasteners are often corroded or overtightened requiring a nut busting torque way higher than book torque. I suggest this - cheaper than the blue RR and done my Transit hub nuts ~450Nm. The world turns, or if you're bit dopey like me sometimes and forget to check the direction before pulling the trigger - the bolt head shears off.

something involving velcro maybe, or a cable tie looped on itself as a breakable connecting loop between the lanyard karabiner and a second karabiner to the bridge or side

if it's only 1/2" dia stems the 4mm thick mulching blades are good - best on a more powerful brushcutter or clearing saw. I use FS490. Haven't tried one on my strimmer, maybe an FS130 or similar would just about have enough grunt. The great thing about mulching blades is the whole lot, brambles saplings is mashed up and just goes down flat and dissipates, usually no need to rake and burn or tip. Mind your eyes and teeth, there is a special guard for mulching with the clearing saws, but I've worked on low revs and risked it without. Hit a hidden object and blood and guts everywhere. Like the farmers who died flailing hedges. Much safer accepting less money and flipping burgers

ha ha - keep on hearing about these hats, so had to do a bit of research, apparently handy to stop telepathic people getting inside your head! I think 1/8" lead sheet would keep out the electromagnetic waves better. An early allusion to an "insulative electrical contrivance encircling the head during thought" appears in the unusual 1909 non-fiction publication Atomic Consciousness [2] by self-proclaimed "seer" John Palfrey (aka "James Bathurst") who believed such headgear was not effective for his "retention of thoughts and ideas" against a supposed "telepathic impactive impingement"

Ulterior

The biggest oak reduction I've seen was done 10/11 years ago. A huge multi stemmed beast, it does not have 'weakly attached dangerous branches' at least they don't seem to be separated after a big blow. Maybe you wouldn't want to climb above the old cuts, but we are talking 15 to 20 years before the regrowth would be big enough to need that. It is possible to swallow the received wisdom and constantly regurgitate current thinking, but the minds that have made their branch of treework text processing aren't necessarily pragmatic.

re - reducing a huge oak, if it's given a good haircut, say 2.5m approx reduction, it won't be as bad again next summer, there will be some epicormic fluffy twigs at the cuts, but the canopy will be smaller and take around 10 years to get back to where it was (hence more light for many years, clear of rooftop etc). The cuts on a reduction (and imo more so the pruning cuts on the trunk from crown lifting) are possible sites for infection from spores of decay fungi, which are mostly released in autumn. For this reason and avoiding drought stress in July/August, and when the tree is coming into leaf, I think if you want to choose when to remove growth (without getting the tree's permission) then choose June, December, January. Otherwise just get it done when the contractor can fit it in - it will be alright anyway hopefully.

As the Timberwolf 250 has been productive, providing the 90 odd hp Kubota has been looked after, keeping it running would cost thousands in having obsolete parts manufactured. Maybe 7 thousand would buy a good few more years with the mighty 250 Plenty of 90hp tractors around with 10,000 hours

just spent at least 10 hours fannying about, kept on looking up stuff on Youtube and getting my Haynes manual covered in oil, didn't use genuine Ford parts, hope it lasts. Was rattling on some cold starts and not firing on the key, fires up straight away now One thing I did which I thought was good is not bother to take the crank sensor out - I got the two cam sprockets and the fuel pump sprocket(2.4Di) lined up and locked with the timing pins, at this point I noted the crank position and the torx head for sprocket, pointing about 11 O'clock, in the video below the guy says 2 and half teeth from that should be at 12 O'clock (at least it is for 90PS. Because there are only so many links after the coloured link is on the mark for the fuel pump sprocket it means the crank sprocket can only be in one or another chain link. So I pulled it tight between the fuel pump sprocket and crank sprocket, with the 2 and half teeth from torx head at 12 O'clock, then released the tensioner, fitted rest of guides and much to my relief when all sealed up it started on the key. As a precaution I did make sure I could turn the engine over on the crank by hand to see if the valves caught. A bit long winded explanation, but was worried about disturbing the crank sensor, or not being able to release it, so didn't bother. With all that heat insulation around the sensor, seems a lot of effort. Maybe it can go wrong sometimes missing that step out and I just got lucky. Took almost three times as long as the pros, even with my 'shortcut', but am happy to have saved at least a couple of hundred garage labour.

If it all worked, this setup would have helped save a few hernias for someone 6 years ago,

the Smurf's house looks like fly agaric - Amanita muscaria. Poland - good place for a climate conference, as they are about 80% reliant on coal fired power stations

The one I linked to says dispatched from Buckinghamshire.

I'm not sure if this one listed on ebay by Briants Ltd is a mk3 or one of the earlier ones where the links crack. you could google briants ltd for their phone number and ask them, maybe quicker than emailing through ebay. Looks like they only have one left. PETZL D22A Zigzag Mechanical Prussik **CLEARANCE PRICE** WWW.EBAY.CO.UK The linked rings provide precision and fluidity when moving around. The pulley is mounted on sealed ball bearings to...

So sometimes a Leonardo da Vinci or a Mozart is born, but also plenty of these types, just so we don't forget nature can be cruel. Take the rough with the smooth, or start a civil war. No police photo of main attacker

Hemp would set my asthma off, this time of year every protester worth their salt will have a saddlebag of magic mushrooms for their altered states

If he'd have taken his climbing gear, and a flask he could have got higher up beyond the reach of the old bill and spent the whole weekend, got more news coverage, helicopter team trying to pry him off etc

If a root barier is impermeable what is the difference in terms of ground water between installing and felling? If the barrier is long and deep enough , far enough out from the walls I mean.

What about asian farmers?

HGV

I haven't read all the latest research - so I don't know. Back in 1993(AA research note) Lonsdale was a bit anti autumn pruning 'Despite the complexity of the seasonal changes, it can be predicted that, contrary to tradition, autumn is a bad time to prune trees. Components of the tree’s defences that depend on cell growth are clearly less effective than in the growing season. Also, wood moisture is at its lowest in many species in autumn. A high moisture content in wood equates with low oxygen content which limits the activity of decay fungi, even though some can survive such conditions. Finally, autumn is the time when a high proportion of decay fungi are releasing their spores' Interested in the latest, if anyone can recommend an article or review @EdwardC @Gary Prentice

do you think there is anything to the seasonality of pruning, where if at all possible hard pruning in autumn is to be avoided due to all the fungal spores being released? People have to fill their diaries and earn money, but it strikes me that September, early October would be the absolute worst time of year if given a choice. I suppose if the customer is unaware it doesn't matter, if the wounds do attract gano etc, it may be decade or more before it caves in, by which time the 'arborist' may have paid off his/her mortgage and retired

this is the only one in the list that bothers me - some of the richest people in the country have got there by having lots of low paid workers to staff their businesses, I'm thinking the likes of Phillip Green. So the government have had to subsidise their businesses by topping up the income of shop workers with tax credits, housing ben etc. Ill gotten gains that should be plundered by inheritance tax. I'd like to see JRM lose a slice too - he reportedly look a 1M divvy from the fund he cofounded, no mention of him forfieting his salary, even with that tremendous wealth. Scrapping inheritance tax seems like making sure the hard working pure greed can always trample the thickos underfoot

have to agree with Stubby - what a drama queen, certainly no need for 3 exclamation marks, one would have been more than enough

Also if it's hawthorn, yes a polesaw helps, as it's not really doable from inside