nick1854

That looks fantastic. You need to make a chess board with the same wood.

Matt I could use some more larch boards, and you can use the left over logs (though they are pretty green). Nick

Matt That has gone up really fast, and looking good. Will you access from the river side? The roof pitch is a bit low for a shingle roof (the lower the pitch the faster they rot) though they do just cost your labour (and fuel). You also need stainless nails for oak shingles. Nick

Can I watch (help!) when that is milled it looks fantastic! Field Maple that is big, straight and burry.

pm sent to you both to set the collection up

This is my experience of making small timber framed buildings too Andrew. I haven't looked into the engineering/structural grading aspects as much as you have, but found that by building "by judgement" can work well. For me "judgement" was built up by looking at other timber frames, reading how professionals frame and my own knowledge of working/using different types of timber (eg. you develop a sense of what a particular section of timber will span unsupported). Also as a default option for safety and peace of mind use a bigger timber! You have made an excellent job of the bracing Andrew, nice tight joints. How are you going to do the cladding?

That looks magnificent Andrew. I reckon you could have adapted that to take the weight of a green roof

Has anyone tried using M42 blades on a mobile mill? I use them on my workshop bandsaw and they are far more cost effective because of their longer life. They also cope well with the odd bit of metal...

yes yes Matt! The off cuts have interesting grain and colour and the shot of the whole log looks like it runs all the way down. If I come across any timber I haven't used before and the signs are good (interesting crosscut grain/burrs lumps etc.) I always give it a go, though it tends to be on small section stuff (less than 16"). I had some turkey oak and the internet search suggested burn it, but I got some nice figured boards (which air-dried really fast). The rowan I have used before was hard like a fruitwood and worth the effort. Nick

Great looking bed. Good combination of waney and straight edge timber. Another vote to see it finished.

Mark I wonder if when you come to work the board that was perfectly flat in your workshop you take more off one face than the other. This changes the stresses in the board and it warps, and on wide boards this can mean a 3/4" hollow or crown. However dry a piece of timber is every time you make it smaller (by planing or cutting it into smaller components) it loses a bit more moisture and it changes shape. When I make furniture I always rough cut the components oversize and stack it to dry more, and then after a couple of weeks plane to the final size. I think for boards 20" wide I would be drying them in the house before I worked them (after gentler drying in the workshop of course).

That is a good price Jonathan. I wish that had been available when I looked for local sawn larch 3 years ago to clad my latest shed build. Durable and smells great.

Matt Richard (FC) might know the age of the Douglas timber. I remember him saying it had been felled a while before we used it, hence it was pretty dry when you milled it. When I was turning the offcuts (my offcuts from your offcuts!) into firewood I got loads of really fine splinters.....is that a Douglas Fir thing?

Shed looking good Matt. Some of the offcuts I took from your milling were too good to burn and I managed to get some useful posts from them. Thanks.

Yes yes yes. It can be beautiful timber. It is quite dense like fruit woods. The problem is finding stems big enough to make it worthwhile to mill....if it's 10 inch or bigger diameter give it a go. The stems I have come across often have spiral grain and bark inclusions from the fluting on the trunk. Often pinks and red colours in the heart wood. Pictures please if you mill.