Jamespepperpot

I have similar lumps in both my hands, the first one appeared after a pulley injury from catching a crimp wrong whilst rock climbing and the second was from pulling too hard in a pocket with my middle and ring finger. I've seen a lot of older climbers with these lumps and assumed they were some sort of tendon inflammation/repair. A bit like scar tissue. I had also wondered if it might be dupuytrens contracture though

Its for my cousins new place. They are from the hair pin leg company. I sold my mig welder a few years ago and regretted it ever since

Its hard to pick it up on camera but it's a translucent grain pattern. Not saw marks 😅 20210419_173548.mp4

It does make a pretty clean look. I haven't used metal legs on a dining table before but I wanted the top to be the main feature without any distractions. Its quite a bit quicker than making a table frame too

I thought I'd start my own thread to post things I've been working on recently instead of always hijacking other people's. I've been spending more and more of my time making and building things recently. Its become quite a big part of my work and I'm quite excited by the way work seems to be progressing. Here is an ash dining table and benches I made from a dead ash I helped take down then milled. It has some really nice rippled grain in it.

Out of interest, what do you do for a living and how much do you earn per year? Maybe we can all decide if we think you are worth your salary.

I cant spend too long on that site, they sell some proper tool porn. I've only done 3 frames so my advice won't be that comprehensive. The most important thing aesthetically is to make sure the shoulders of all your tenons are properly lined up. Don't make the tenons so tight you have to fight to get them together as it'll end up being a pita to assemble. Always think as far ahead as you can before cutting anything. Use the downward cutting side of the chain mortiser when you're working on the lines of your mortises as it stops tear out. You'll learn loads by doing it yourself anyway. Don't rush!

I have a 14mm and a 25mm one from here Offset Prickers WWW.TFTOOLS.CO.UK Offset Prickers Made in bright bar, improved...

+1 for what Rough said. I have a military mine detector which will find metal quite deep into large logs but realistically its only really useful for finding screws and nails etc that are in the bark or the first layer of the tree because they're the ones you can pull or cut out easily. Trees that react with metal usually give away their location on the end grain so you can do your best to avoid them with the depth of cut. Sometimes I will mill down to the layer I think its on and then just cut that section out with a saw. Especially if I'm using the Lucas mill because I'm usually cutting dimensional timber so it just means you have a shorter board but still a undamaged blade. Ex Army Vallon VMH3CS Metal Mine Detector Kit Fully Working in Soft Case [TD1] WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Field instructions, Parts List, Headset and Test Piece Included. Search Head: 30.8 x 17cm. Water Tightness of... I have one of these but only paid £120 for it and it came in a bag with a peli case too. I use it on its lowest sensitivity otherwise it can pick up metal in the ground underneath the logs if they're not massive.

Lovely. Is it for you or a customer? Its for a client, wish it was for me. One day, if I ever have the money, Id like to build myself a timber framed house out of larch or Douglas.

It was stacked with stickers for about 5 weeks but I doubt it dried out that much. Its a fairly stable timber, Ive built with it straight off the mill before and its been fine. All the joints have draw bored pegs in to hold them tight as the timber dries just like in any other timber frame so I wouldn't expect a huge amount of movement in it. I didn't mill all the timber in this building but I would always mill Larch quite soon after felling as during the summer they get attacked by wood wasp larvae and they'll eat into the sapwood and the edges of the heartwood.

Thanks, It took me about 7 days in total and a couple of hours to put up.

Little Garden shed frame I made from Larch. Cosy man cave.

Ah that is quite a bit extra capacity then. Nah I have the normal rails and I have a rhino roof rack that they sit on top of. A bit of overhang at each end as they are bloody long

Yeah mine is 30hp. So if the carriage is shorter what's your max log diameter? Its still 1.2m although I have squeezed 1.4ish once but you end up wasting a bit on either side. I think its just to accommodate the larger engine size rather than extra capacity. Id like to get a bigger one one-day, just has to coincide with a bigger van purchase too. I like the flexibility of not having to tow a trailer for it.

Yeah its 16hp, the 8 and 10 are 30hp or so right? I think the carriage is also longer to accommodate the bigger engine so it wouldn't fit in my SWB Transporter.

What model did you go for? I have the 6 inch one. I couldn't afford the bigger one at the time and I didn't know how much work I would have for it either.

6 inch model is 12k with vat, 8 inch is 18, 10 inch is 20. Well thats what they were when I bought mine 4 years ago. Probably a bit more now.

Depends on what you're planning to do with it. If I was asked to cut timber which would be dried and planed to end up as 2x4 I'd cut it oversize by 1/4 inch but if its just going to be used as a rough sawn 2x4 then I'd cut it at exactly 2x4.

Mostly 6x6 beams, 6x2s 2x4s and some roofing baton type stuff. I also cut some 6x30mm boards for a bridge he wants to build.

Felled and milled this oak for a client to use for a timber frame we will build at some point in the future. YouCut_20210220_174630722.mp4

I usually charge around 130-150 for ground work with the 4 different contractors I work for. I bring my own saw, rescue kit and like to think I work hard enough. I also chuck in interesting lunch time conversation topics as a bonus.

The way Beefsteak fungus attacks oaks seems to vary quite a bit and also I think a lot of larger logs may have FH and also some sort of white rot fungus like Inonotus dryadeus or Ganoderma so there will be varying degrees of decay as well as the oak turning brown from FH. From the logs of it I have milled the true brown oaks are pretty much dead trees and depending on how far dead they are will change the quality of the timber. Some I've milled and it literally pulled itself apart internally as it dried so was pretty much useless. I milled one small log that ill attach a picture of which was the darkest piece I've come across. Also a pic from a larger log which was from a windblown oak which shows it progressing up the log.

I had a bunch of brown oak a few years ago. If you catch it at the right time it is still quite solid but it does have marginally different properties. Some of the wood dried really badly and was unusable

I think its roughly 3.5 cubic metres. I can't find a green density figure but dry apparently its around 630+- per cubic meter. Sycamore is quite similar which is roughly a ton per cubic metre.