agg221

I have one which I run off an 066 for use with milling. It is very handy for pulling butts out to where you can get at them, so long as you can get a good anchor point. It doesn't get as much use as I thought it would though as generally if you can drive up to the butt you don't need it, and if it's a long drag then it's one more big heavy piece of kit to lug so it's often easier to just work in the awkward location then have to take the winch in and out. Alec

I agree - a racksaw would give you more for a lot less. Either that or a big old Stenner or equivalent vertical bandsaw which will take a thinner kerf and allow a wider cut, which is handy if you want to re-saw wide boards, like when you suddenly find that your stack of nicely seasoned 2" needs to be 1". Alec

The Magnums were American spec saws - I'm not aware of any difference in pot and piston so the same .cc but they sometimes had things like dual port mufflers as standard so got a bit more power out of them. More recently they just call everything Magnum and it's the same as the UK-spec normal saw, apart from the sticker! Alec

The 084 is good but the cheapest option is usually an 070 (no chainbrake option) or an 075 or 076, which are basically the same as each other but with different recoil units. 111cc and happily pull a 50" bar. These saws are all about torque rather than revs. They will chew their way through anything in a sort of unstoppable fashion. If you end up with an 075 or 076 without a chainbrake they can be retro-fitted but make sure it has the cast lug on the front of the crank case, otherwise you end up doing a bolt-on job illustrated on here by Eddy_t. Alec

Just the fuel, or any underlying faults found? Alec

You're welcome - doesn't half show up that I know a load of random stuff though! Alec ps when it's done we will need pictures...

Not quite so good if once you've started keeping them you find you go into anaphylactic shock as happened to me. Fortunately the mild kind rather than the dead in 10 minutes kind but still enough to decide perhaps there were safer hobbies.... Alec

Hazel doesn't appear on the list but I've always thought of it as fairly shade tolerant, which appears to be consistent with the information on the current coppicing thread. It also lays well as a hedge, so even if you're not laying the rest you could finish planting 4ft away from the oak and lay towards it to close the gap? Alec

Yep,video captures it. In my rather more basic version I tend to just stick my dowel plate over the top of the slightly open jaws of the vice. Alec

I'm actually viewing on an iPhone. Alec

Yes, but cut them as rough blanks. Not sure on the size of your structure, but say for convenience you opt for 13mm pegs. Chop a bit of wood of a convenient length - assume your structure means you need 4" long pegs, cut it at something around 5-6". Split it up - if you haven't got a froe then a billhook rested where you want to split it and banged on the back with a wooden or rubber mallet does a good enough job. Split it into square bits about 5/8" across and point one end up a bit so it just enters the hole in the plate, to act as a lead. Stick the square bits as above in the airing cupboard for a few days. When you are fitting your structure together, bang the pegs through the plate (known as a dowel plate) using a mallet. You would ideally do this in the morning, then fit them in the afternoon, or the next day. The pegs, having been made dry and then freshly compressed will fit the hole fairly easily, although there will still be some grip. Over the next few days they will expand and grip tightly. Alec

It doesn't need to be bigger - I drill the hole in the plate the same size as the hole in the wood. Driving the peg through the hole in the plate compresses the wood fibres so the peg fits the hole in the wood. When it relaxes over a few days it expands again, locking it solid. Alec

I drill the hole in the plate and the hole in the wood the same size. Alec

That's a cunning idea - I need some overlength rails and was thinking 6' would be the longest I could do but this could solve it. Cheers Alec

Never come across it, but Cypress | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Softwoods) says it should be worth the effort, maybe for cladding or decking? If access is too bad for a Lucas mill it could be done with a combination of Alaskan mill to cut cants, followed by Ripsaw mill to break down into boards. Alec

On the early ones the ring inside is nylon rather than the corrugated metal type. This is nla, although you could probably make one out of a bit of nylon rod easily enough if you had to. The connection to the flywheel is through three lugs at the back which can sheer off. These can be rebuilt if necessary. Alec

The bar is a possibility, but I know when I had this it was working nicely before I sharpened the chain, then set the grinder just a little too deep and it suddenly started doing this. Alec

Excellent stuff - out of interest what length are your Alaskan rails? Alec

OK, now spotted the link. I look in that column for forum sponsors, but across the top on the yellow buttons for forum-related content. I think this is why I didn't notice it before - it just wasn't where I was expecting. This is purely a personal view, but to me Arbtrader is far more complicated than it needs to be. There are currently 8 main categories and eight subcategories, to handle 38 adverts. I can't comment on whether that is an increase or decrease in volume over the pre-Arbtrader days (as I wasn't on long under the old for sale/wanted system and can't remember the volume) but if it is the anticipated volume it could be slimmed right down into a simple list, or just stick the main categories down a side bar to the left? Having got round to looking properly, the content is actually there but it's so far down the page I haven't noticed it before. I compared it with Gumtree, and I think it's that the top much more compact (partly due to the categories being in a side bar) so you are straight into the adverts. A suggestion would be to keep the strip of buttons across the top but squash the top up a bit to make it fairly narrow, then categories down the LHS and featured adverts in a narrower scrolling banner, then straight into adverts in date order (as currently). I reckon you would then see the first three or so adverts straight on the page and it would be more apparent what's there? Alec

For 070 or 090? I've only got full 090 kits at the moment. Alec

Where from if I may ask (planting one up over the next few years and it may be handy if applicable)? Cheers Alec

Just checked - my 070 has the overspeed regulator on the notch nearest to the back end. Alec

No, that's the later type. They are not interchangeable. Alec

Which bit has failed - the nylon insert or the starter cup? If it's the cup, they can be repaired. If the cup is OK but you end up changing the lot over, don't throw the cup away! Alec

I agree with this. For this sort of job I would reckon it is better to lose a little bit of extreme grip in exchange for not risking splitting the wood. As such, rather than the traditional shaving to shape I would split out square-ish bits, taper up one end a bit to form a lead and dry them in the airing cupboard. I would then drill a hole in a bit of steel plate, put it with the hole over the plate and just before use, bang them through with a mallet. This slightly compresses the wood fibres so that when you tap them into a matching hole in the wood they expand again over the next few days and lock solid. My new extension roof is held together using pegs made this way (for location rather than structural load) and they are much easier to get in to thinner sections without risking splitting. Alec