wyk

Cut it with pure rapeseed as the weather cools. It will flow better. I go half and half from the start when we get bio oil. It's just way too thick from the factory.

Never seen a big saw in a French maids outfit

BTW, this is toolnuts old saw. He's got a 261 now. And it looks like that thing is gonna end up in my lap for some tweaks as well.

The 261 responds well to muff mods, too. Just make sure you don;t point the port at the brake handle The 241 has loads of room under the bonnet for ports.

I also have two more ports on the other side to be safe. Eventually, she'll be ported. Not because I want more power - she has loads. I want better throttle response. I made the mistake of running a ported 42 special once.

Remember to reset after the mod. Let idle on "Start" ^ for at least 60 seconds(I count to 90), shut it off so it saves the idle parameters. THen 5 full cuts similar to what I have in the vid, and she will be fairly well dialed in, and she will keep dialing it in as you use her,

12" is on a 3/8 (picco) sprocket, not .325.

 

.325 is a stupid kerf for a small saw if you ask me. I agree, 18" would have made it suffer and defeated the object of such power to weight ratio.

16", 325, 7"(ish) unseasoned larch, simple muffler mod and reset.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhhyXlodfBI

Next bar will be an 18" Stihl(which is really 16").

The 056 series, in fairness, were some of the best saws Stihl made in their day. And a Mag II is a beast. Which also means they were a tad heavy at a touch over 20 lbs. Your 395 is about 18 lbs.

Having said that, you should notice a difference. A duel port muffler will make a big difference. You may also want to check the tune of it. Have you had it serviced? Do you know what the compression is at?

Should I wait till my warranty is up? Or go for it now?

Well, I'd hate to see your dealer give you a tough time over it if you needed warranty work. After all, it is rather invasive surgery.

 

Yeah I was just gonna drill out the existing hole to make it bigger. There's no baffles in the muffler or anything, just a hollow can. Is the 241 the same?

There's a small perforated baffle on the 241. The 241 is actually surprisingly choked up. It has a small baffle and a tiny exit hole - maybe 8mm. It's basically guaranteed to fill up the exhaust with carbon and run hot. They respond extremely well to muffler mods when recalibrated correctly.

Ah, thought that was the CM model - baffling:confused1:

Yeah, two versions of the 362, both labeled "C" on the starter - with the M-Tronic labelled "C-M" in the literature..

The 241, I dunno. I never paid much attention to them until someone offered me one. With a good MM, they are good saws with a load of torque for their size.

Ace, I was just gonna start a new thread asking about a muffler mod on the 362c. I didn't know how the carb would handle it.

When it comes to autotunes and stratos, some respond better to mods than other. My first attempt, I must not have recalibrated correctly, or it didn't take. It was a bit better, not not by much. Then I gutted the poor thing and recalibrated a slightly different way(on start 60+ secs, then off, then straight to 5 big cuts). And POW, she freakin came alive. It went from a lazy typical strato saw to something I can actually limb with.

Just make sure when you muffler mod that it doesn't end up eating away at a brake handle or sumfin. There's loads of room under the bonnet of a 241 for the muffler, thus the big ole hole.

How bout some muffler modding? Or should I dig up the porting thread?

STIHL MS241c-m - I just recalibrated it and she really freaking came alive. Winds out and revs like shes ported. I'll need to make a new vid. I got it in partial trade for the 372 work.

A pair of braces wouldn't go amiss

Surprised no one's said anything about the tear in the jeans...

That video would be much better if you had decided not to scratch your arse!

Man's gotta scritch what a man's gotta scritch.

Well, for trying to be conservative, she turned out OK. Here she is tuned to just nudge the rev limiter on high. So, a bit rich, but she seems to be happy rich. Loads of torque, too.

The 420's are very solid machines.

I did wonder wes, I thought you were trying to beat husky to the 572xp

A bud of mine, whom I have owned a few ported saws of his, is a Husqvarna dealer stateside.

He's had a '572AT' in his hands for a short while recently.

He liked it.

That's all he would tell me.

Good luck Wes, looks a nice job:thumbup:

We'll see how she comes out. There isn't a lot you can do on the intake of these unless you want to defeat the strato. This is a work saw, so I didn't want to go too crazy with it. There's some timing added to the intake, very little done to the exhaust port, muffler gutted, transfers raised and directed a touch, and lower transfers had a lot of work done to them, as well as the base of the cylinder to match it to the chassis.

I'll adjust the timing advance tomorrow to see how she likes it.

Just noticed I said it was a 372AT. I meant to say 372XT. This will likely be the last one I do - virtually every porter I know that I asked for advice on a 372XT said either

1) I don't do em if I can help it - they eat rings, or

2) lathe work and defeat strato to get real gains.

So, yeah, I just will go a bit conservative on it, gave it a lot more open exhaust, more transfers, and some ignition timing if it helps. She has to like it at least a little - she's half a turn out on both screws and still jis nudging the rev limiter.

372AT

Just got done running a little whirly gigger inside one of these poor things. I'll see how she runs tomorrow. I've made no ignition timing mods, so curious to see how she will respond to them tomorrow. Adjusting the carburetor is just a good time on these things.

Until it's broken in, I would avoid the decomp on cold starts. It also makes it easier to hear the 'pop'. And pull it like you mean it. Starting it slow and lazy with the decomp on will flood a lot of saws. Remove the spark screen from the exhaust outlet if there is one.

I'm wondering if it 'partially' caught a ring on the exhaust as stock. The new XT's are notorious for it ported.

Was that a 365XT to start? The non XT 365's tend to be bullet proof.

Wish I could see the insides before you got the new saw.

Of the kits out there, the only one I am comfortable building a saw with are the Meteors.

I agree with the above

 

One of the owners I quoted expressed experiencing trouble with rapeseed oil (lack of lubrication), and it would be easy to find many more.

 

Mileage may vary depending on usage patterns (frequency, storage etc), oil type used (rapeseed, sunflower etc), additives (as you state).

 

What I was trying to point out, is that you need to be aware of the repercussions of using bio oils, whether they are "raw" or sold specifically for use in chainsaws, and what is suitable for one person is not advisable for others.

I understand. However, this is a professional forum. We assume owners are professionals, and make suggestions accordingly. So you can understand how we would suggest it's use unreservedly on this forum.

As for lubrication - rapeseed is as good as, or better, a lubricant than most mineral sold as chain oil in my experience, and in formal and informal tests done by the US Forest service, as well as the Ministry of Forestry in British Columbia. Use straight rapeseed/canola, keep your chain sharp, and don't leave it sit for 6 months at a time, and you'll be fine. And that advice applies to everyone.

Which supports my argument, that using raw vegetable oil should not be universally recommended.

 

With regards to storing saws for extended periods with oil and fuel: It isn't a problem if you use Alkylate fuel (like Aspen and STIHL MotoMix), and either mineral based, or bio oil with added antioxidants (e.g. Stihl BioPlus), which I have done myself for more than 5 years now.

In all the cases, the owners only stipulated 'cooking oil' as far as I could discern. We are saying 'rapeseed' specifically for a reason. That particular vegetable oil has qualities perfect for use on a chainsaw. Using any other oil may invite issues.

As for oxidation, etc. You can not leave rapeseed or any vegetable oil without stabilizers in your equipment for any extended length of time without chancing gumming issues etc.

Our advice was for professionals. I admit I can forget that some people on these forums do not use their equipment on a regular basis. If you let your equipment sit for any real length of time, you would likely be better off with mineral oil.

Buxtons stuff is quite fluid, whereas the Oregon and Stihl stuff is quite gloopy (in contrast to Stihl's mineral stuff).

 

I find the wd40 degreaser generally shifts any congealed crap, for everything that won't budge, an ultrasonic cleaner and white spirit usually fixes

Boss got gloopy stuff once, I found adding straight rapeseed to it helped it flow better and prevented it sticking.