wyk

A LOT of parts are Chinese made. However if you do not know what you are doing, you could easily get the Chinese knock-off of a Chinese part..

That 361 shouldn't have a limiter. Can ya do us a favor and give us a photo or two of the carb, the saw, etc?

It sounds to me you can't avoid replacing that carb. Do not get a chinese one. They are usually of very poor quality and will not last, and some won't hold a tune, either. You an possibly try someother folks here, spud, or the local smalle ngine shop to see if they have a spare they would let ya test with, if it works - keep.

Did you say the butterfly wouldn't fully close?

Find a 660 an excellent saw for cutting the larger logs down in the yard. Use a 362 for the smaller stuff, and 660 for the >1ft dia logs, which are sorted out separate. Suppose a 461 must make a good all rounder, but there is satisfaction in cutting through a pile of 2" logs that little bit quicker. You can lean on it!

Will have to try 461 now! 461R with the funky handle, that must be useful.

Cheers, John.

The funky handle also has a high discharge clutch cover and a high output oiler.

The 461 has quad ports, the second Stihl to ever have them, and take very well to porting.

Of course, but not nearly as badly as engine oil (or pure rapseed oil). Bar oil has a tackifier in it, that helps it stay in place longer/better.

I wonder what the tackifier is on Husky and Stihl bio oil, as it does not modify their specific gavity/density much at all from that of Veggie oil(0.92 g/cm³@15C for STIHL Bio Oil - the exact SG on Rapeseed) according to the MSDS, and both state they are completely biodegradable. In all my use the last four years, all of it being 100% Rapeseed oil with no added tackifier, and nearly all of that put through ported saws, I haven't noticed much difference in performance or bar wear.

In case folks were wondering, all grades of STIHL bar oil, light through heavy, have densities from .88-.91, so basically very similar to rapeseed even in their petroleum-based chain oil. Rapeseed and heavy petro should flow similarly.

First get photos of the thing, show it to the seller, and ask him if he can do right by you.

If he balks, go to ebay and paypal - they will side with you, and the seller knows this.

Probably as it was thinned so much by the paraffin it gave the impression of not oiling. Technically it was oiling as it was pumping out but it wouldn't have been doing much in the way of actual lubrication.

 

Engine oil won't clog a pump. Veg oil can.

Exactly. Maybe it was parafin with a single "f", which is wax, and not kerosene.

Straight engine oil will work fine, you may just need to up the output on your oiler. It was what was used on chainsaws for decades without any issues, including in the mix. Rapeseed oil works fine, too. Again, you may have to increase your oiler output, and not let it sit in the saws idle for too long, or when it's very cold. Rapeseed is what's in bio-oil, up to 98% or so.

Spud - have ya tried using a cloth dipped in mix to remove caked bio oil? Works fine for me.

I think green is the smaller tip for easier and safer bore cutting. 3003, at least in large mount, is 12mm. 3002 is 14mm. I can not say if the fit is great as I haven't tried it myself.

Anyone no were i can get a large mount stihl guide bar to fit sd 123 .Needs to match chains i have 84 dl 063 3/8. Only one i can find is 3003 mount.Bar i have is a solid nose,want to change to sprocket type.Thanks

3003 bar mounts are 12mm, aren't they? I thought for 14MM you would need to go with a 3002 bar mount. And then you are stuck with 404 tips from the factory if you go new. I think the 3002 in 21"(AKA 22") has a factory 3/8 option. It might work with minimal fussing.

...

 

The trouble with Ireland is no post codes, not saying it is an excuse but one issue is a named house on a non named road must be a nightmare without a post code so am giving them a little slack.

 

They are responding and investigating it - fortunately I had up to £1000 insurance on the kit so they may get a flumping great claim if thy can't find it!

Only Cork and Dublin have anything resembling a postal code. And certainly nothing remotely like the literally awesome post codes the UK have. I occasionally have post delayed due to an incorrect address. However, the Irish post are used to seeing stuff like this. They are fairly good at figuring out where something is meant to be, they will be familiar enough with your name if you have lived there long enough that even a completely wrong address, so long as it was close enough to end up at your local, often will find you.

My Irish addy has no numbers or street name. It just says what side of the village I am on. How stuff finds me is simply amazing.

Ok but if you just ignore ultimate hp figures and just concentrate on the difference , and say do it 3 times on each saw , take the average you will get a good idea of the gains you get with a MM on this particular saw is what I was getting at ...

Chad does 5 runs.

I wonder if there is enough meat there to Tig weld it?

To be fair to the manufacturer's specs, the dyno would have to be normalized, or at least calibrated for losses. Right now, Chad only has a rudimentary calibration, which doesn't take into account drive train losses due to heat, environment, or inertial resistance for the dyno itself. Thus, it's main importance right now is straight comparisons. It's a good thing his readings are on the low side. If they were on the high side, without taking into account the losses, then he would really have serious calibration issues.

Personally, I like his numbers. I look at them sort of like BHP numbers. It's the HP the wood itself would likely be experiencing. I mean, if wood could talk it would say something like "Yeah, that there feels like right bout 5.7 HP, or so, I reckon."

Doesn't really matter for a strait comparison . Just showing the difference between stock and MM .

Exactly. Most use dynamometers simply to compare modifications. Your baseline is the unmodified saw.

It's worth noting that some newer saws like the MS461 benefit very little from muffler mods. Others benefit significantly

Impressive dyno chart.

Have you got any pics of his dyno set up?

This is his first iteration. He is on Dyno 2.1 or so right now, but I imagine it doesn't look much different:

Even without I'm well pleased

 

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Arbtalk mobile app

Here's a dyno chart a bud of mine stateside did with a 660 stock VS the factory 660 dual port(DP) muffler. He used his own purpose built hydraulic chainsaw dyno:

That's 23% more HP at 10,000 RPM with a simple bolt on.

A 550xp with an MM gets on, too.

Thanks for that wyk. Would the difference in the amount of sawed timber be very noticeable at the end of a day?

 

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Arbtalk mobile app

Couldn't tell ya, bud. I've never done any metrics on either. Personally, I would go with a 560 and an MM if I had to get a new saw.

Mitch has got it goin on:

The 365 has a bigger bore, stroke, and carb. With an MM, it should pull 3/8 chain at .045" rakers, on an 18" bar with an 8 pin rim effortlessly through softwoods. The 550 would be hard-pressed to compete. But, it would be a lot lighter...14lbs vs 11.4 or so. Having said that, even mild porting will bring that 365 into a completely different realm.

extra pin rims/sprockets are usually fitted to larger saws running small bars or ported saws where the extra load of the larger sprocket is easily accomodated with the torque of the saws!

I'll just leave this here...

I could not afford the Wheatbix to be able to handle that size of saw.:001_tt2:

Just add another meal and I would say you're sorted:

You got that wrong - the 4500 is an older model, that is heavier and with less rated power.

 

The 4300 is the new Zenoah model, and basically the same as the 543xp. The only identified differense (apart from the obvious) so far is that the chain catcher is polymer on the 4300, while it is metal on the 543xp.

There also is a 3900, which is the same saw with a lesser engine.

Ah. Since I saw only the 4500 on the web sites here, I made the assumption it was the current model.

When you say Zenoah, are you talking about the engine make?

I just googled it and got loads of info on radio control engines.

 

Are they not so good?

It is a rebadged Zenoah/Redmax GZ 4300(which, btw, is an older model, to boot. Zenoah are now on the GZ 4500). It is a decent saw, but I wouldn't pay Husky prices if the Zenoah price is less...:

In that form factor, in that market, I would prefer the Shindaiwa 452S(£376 delivered to your doorstep by R&T). Slightly heavier, but better built, and can be found in a 50CC version in the ECHO 500P.