wyk

Do they have an octane rating? Is it basically 'white gas' or Coleman fuel? Remember, camp stoves do not need high octane - it just needs to burn. It will also lack lead substitutes, as well as any protective additives. It also burns hotter than pump petrol. The Coleman version stateside has this for it's wiki page:

Though Coleman fuel has an octane rating of 50 to 55 and a flammability similar to gasoline, it has none of the additives found in modern gasoline and cannot be used as a substitute for gasoline, kerosene or diesel fuel in modern engines. Its high combustion temperature and lack of octane boosting additives like tetraethyllead will destroy engine valves, and its low octane rating would produce knocking.

Beer and chainsaws, I'll watch from a distance

Hell, I may, too. Getting a car there and back is gonna run me 350 euro included fuel and stena line.

I think it would be a good idea as a get together, GTG as we say stateside. I'm not too keen on wagering, but I think it would be cool for us all to meet up and share a beer and some sawing.

25" E rollo is one of my favourite light weight bars.

I have, I was disappointed with it on 28" and tbh .1kw power increase is poor for separating pro models

Eh, she's made more for longer bars. I've mostly ran 066's and 660's in that range. I am told the 394/395's with a bit of tuning run much stronger than 660's.

Still, I prefer the 385/390 ported to either.

Psh, don't think I've ever even used a 394, let alone ever snedded with one...

Same bar length, both stock. Post vids!

32 inch bars!

Just re-ported my 357 & 346 plus now have an 066 of questionable ability and lots of trick work done to it:lol:

 

When you are ready........

I'd be interested. I know I'll be in England October 3rd for sure.

Mitch has an interesting vid - including the part where it is closer to 390 Euro in price.

When I was making that previous post, in the back of my mind was a little niggle of a memory. It came to front when I was poking around on the webs for something else related. Mitch has a vid of the 562, stock, compared to a few other saw with a 25" bar attached. Here she is:

Quicker snedding.

It's true. I can sned a 20 year old cedar twice as fast with a 394xp than with a 362.

I've had 2 converted to 3/8 bar and chain, it's more how they run. Seen a few people they run them on 28inch bars which is massive for a saw that size but apparently pull them with ease. If they do run that bar must be more powerful surely, hence my asking.....

It has a higher output oiler and they are either cutting pine/fir with skip or it is ported. Once ported, these 562's make a good bit of power. You won't be boxing all day with a 28, but when you need the reach or to fell 20" spruce, it will do the job.

Hi wyk will a 560 REMAPED or ported call it what you like keep up with a 562 thanks wyk Jon

From what I have seen, they are otherwise nearly identical. A close friend ran a ported 562 with lathe work not too long ago. He said it was basically a very strong running 70cc saw in practice.

Not exactly - the real differenses are just the bar mount, higher air filter/cover and a little more weight as a results. The oiler is the same, and the big spikes and wraps are add-ons also on the 562xp.

 

A lot of people in the US wish the 560 was availiable instead of the 562, and Husky loose sales to the Jonsered 2260 ("same" as the 560) because of it.

The 562XP uses a different pump piston than the 560xp - a bit more output. It will oil a 28" bar.

As with the 460R HO oiler, the pump piston ends in a 2 instead of a 1.

560XP: 505200201 VS 562xp: 505200202

Soccer is spacer, lumped is pumped, bloody predictive text is not very predictive

I was trying to spell "impulse line" the other day on the phone and all I got was "GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOAAAAAAAAAAAAALLLLLLLLLLL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"

Terribly annoying.

Could well be - as far as I know, Stihl pay royalties to Husky for the use of the early AT technology in the M-tronic.

I was gonna say - there's likely a reason they are the same...

I had an entire bottle of wine for lunch. I'm such an idiot. At least I was passed during the heat of the day here in Lisbon, tho.

I just give the files a good few raps on something to clear the debris from it during filing every few teeth. Seems to keep them from loading up. I get quite a few sharpenings out of my save edges I get from Mackin Rob-D.

Quite a few people will want it in parts of the US, and it is within the recommended range.

And with a muffler mod, it will pull it rather well.

I will don't worry. But I bought 10 vxl chains.

Ouch.

Have you tried sharpening the chain?

 

Im not being funny by saying that but sometimes they can come from the factory poorly sharpened, I guess its when the grinding wheels go out of shape or something.

 

Anyway, there is nothing wrong with 91vxl, OK the stihl full chisel is a lot better but as long as the saw is running right and the chain is sharpened correctly you should have no problems.

It's OK until you bury it in wood. Then it can be a bit rough.

Glad I brought this up, seems I'm not the only one having issues with vxl chain.

I'll try the grinding the back of the top plate, but as ricbob says, we shouldn't have to do this.

You don't have to do it, just get VX chain next time.

Agreed . Blount needs to climb a tree and cut !

Oregon knows exactly what they are doing. After all, there's a reason they have multiple types of chains in 91(and others).

Here is their fact page on race chain. I don't think Oregon allow you to link to their own page any more:

http://www.madsens1.com/PDF/RacingTechfacts_93099.pdf

That shouldn't hurt anything, but I have never felt a need for it on any of the chain I have used (haven't used 91VXL).

It makes vxl usable. It makes a standard chain cut like butter, especially for bore cutting and burying the bar. It literally takes 2 or 3 swipes of a file. I do it every time on every chain during the first sharpening. It adds just a few minutes.

Here's the quick file work I do to the chains I run. It makes a huge difference when the bar is buried, and makes the chain cut more smoothly over all. The VXL got this treatment the first time I sharpened it. On the left in the pic is 73 chain, with stock unused 75 on the right.

This is how it goes in fairly hard yellow cypress: