wyk

I use rapeseed oil. It's what's in the bio-oil Stihl and Husky sell. It is usually a tad thinner than usual bar oil, so I turn the oiler up on the saws to good effect. It works fine on my 25" stihl bar with the more open old style oil passages. Cost considerably less and is much more quickly degradable than mineral oil.

Autotune won't let you will it ?

I hope not.

Mitch is a good man. I learned a lot about Echo and Shindaiwa from him.

If you can find them, GB make excellent bars in the A041 mount:

I don't think Husky makes anything like the MS261. I suppose you could get a 550 and then add 8 ounces of lead and run it pig rich.

When I started out, I was given a Husky 444. It was knackered. I had to strip it down, and rebuild it. I had it for nearly 18months until it was stolen. I cleaned it down every day and nursed it along until I had to buy new saws. I don't think it did any harm, it taught me a lot about saws. These days staff want everything shiny and new.

I've had to use a knackered 444!

Basically what I said, and true.

 

 

 

That is only partially true - Husky has a bar factory (in Norway) that make a lot of the bars.

In 041 mounts?

Rather a flat area that contacts the outside of the bar in the proper area.

The side plates inside the clutch cover block the oil from coming out on the 041 mounts(the bottom hole fits the adjuster while the top one oils).

Also - Oregon/Husqvarna, unless you got a GB made for Husky bar, Oregon makes all Husqvarna chainsaw bars.

An 036 won't have a rev limiter unless that coil has been replaced with one. If you are going to stump with it, I would tune her thick at 13,300 or so and then bring her back to mid to high 13's if she four strokes there for ground work with that 24" bar.

Bad man Wes, leading the uninitiated in to the porting wasteland!

You know - jis sayin'...

And before you put it back together, grind about 1mm off the bottom of the intake port, then enlarge your muffler opening

Octane rating is a fuel's ability to resist detonation. If you have a high compression engine, especially one capable of modifying it's timing advance on the fly, it makes a difference. If you have a chainsaw, you will be wasting money. I run a ported MS361 most days with over 210psi compression and advanced timing, roughly 50psi more than many factory chainsaws come equipped as, and I run standard 95 octane pump RON/92 AKI at 40:1 ratio all day long, with a 25" bar, even stumping, without issues. I am curious to see how you feel about a 24" bar on that 036 after some use.

If you put that 036 into a stump with a 30" B&C on it, it will burn that bar and possibly the bearings out in short order because the oiler will not handle it. It might do with some conifer trimming if you need the reach, but not for stumps. Even in the states we don't put more than a 24" on a muffler modded 036 for anything aside for felling and limbing conifers. I run a 25" on my ported 361 with a 460R oiler on it, and I was pushing it pretty hard the other day stumping a beech. I couldn't imagine doing that with a standard 036.

Had Burrells 357Xp in today, one of the first I ported. He said that the saw had a changeable idle and traced it back to fine sawdust in the carb gauze strainer.

 

Took the oportunity to measure the compression - 200psi - pretty good considering it just had the base gasket removed and a new piston - it has been run hard for 2-3 years and looks it but the pressure/Vac tests were also perfect.....all good:thumbup:

What mix is he running?

I'm sure he has although he's been surprisingly productive on here recently rather than just squabbling with TCD about which is better out of husky or dolmar...

 

 

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AS has been nose diving lately. I am sure ST has more time to spend here nowadays... And now we have windthrown, another AS member...

going to turn jonny 2165 into 2171 soon,rock and roll !

Check that the intake boot is a rubber tube with o-ring attached to the cylinder vs bolted.

Thanks wyk have pollished ghr port since pic . On the timeing advance would you open the keyway and pack out to move it ?

 

thanks

Never open the keyway. First - buy a woodruff key from your nearest stihl dealer if this is the first time you've done this. Then, remove the flywheel, then the woodruff key on the saw. Mark it carefully at 1/4 the width. Grind that off. Replace it in the keyway, rotate the Flywheel snug against it, CCW. Then go cut and see how she does. On a 200T and a 201T, your largest returns will be in exhaust mods and ignition timing. Be sure to tune her right. With a 200t, you should own a tachometer as they scream.

Polish that exhaust port a bit and don't forget to bevel the edges well. If it were mine, I would advance the timing 25% of the key.

Niko will be along shortly to tell you that stihls are crap and over-rated

 

 

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He's already informed Windthrown of it.

Gotten bored with AS, Windthrown? I find sawhawgs a touch better, but only just.

Iv not watched the video but yes iv been cutting since the late 70s starting with a 075 my first saw on large hardwoods then went on to 480cd then Dolmars then 266 281 2101 then 254 262 272 then 357 372 395/5 3120 Now running 550 s and have jumped to 441s and makita 9100 Along side some of the old stuff To supply our stenner bandmill and two Jappa prosesors and felling contracts across the Cotswolds Never lost any sleep over not using ported saws for production

And I don't lose much sleep porting saws. I've been running saws since 1989. Not all the folks here are young bucks.

I will say this, though - you won't see anyone getting sued or in trouble for having a ported saw. I haven't seen it happen in 25 years, and you won't see it ever happen, either. Porting a saw does not turn it into a monster(unless you port it to be so, which means it's not able for work). It simply makes it run better. Personally, I think you're letting paranoia get the better of you.

As I mentioned earlier, folks use all types of saws. Saying a 50cc saw with 30% more power is suddenly dangerous when folks run 70cc saws with half again more power all day, every day, is disingenuous at best.

 

But as iv stated 35 years commercial cutting around the world and iv never found any real advantage o and the manufacturer will not stand by any modded saw

 

35 years and you haven't found an advantage?

Has anyone ever watched the BC version of HSE videos(BC faller training standard) on how to safely operate a chainsaw and felling? Many of the chainsaws in the video are ported. If you do not work in production, I can see how a ported saw doesn't help as much.

I would argue a ported chainsaw is safer, assuming all the safety mechanism on the saw are operable and the staff is trained. In a 372 ported, you now have the power of a 390xp, but without the weight. The operator now can do the same, or similar work without becoming fatigued as quickly, and with the ability to better manipulate a tool that is now several pounds lighter than the aforementioned 390xp. If the saw is incapable of overcoming the chain brake, it is as safe as any saw with more power that weighs more. Now, if the HSE and the guilds decided to require permits to operate a chainsaw based upon it's displacement and weight, then I can see a legal basis for this discussion. The only legal basis I can see is a chainsaw that is louder may require more hearing protection. I somehow doubt operators will start increasing their lawsuits based upon hearing loss if ported or muffler modded chainsaws were introduced. The chain speed is another consideration from an HSE standpoint. But then again, the chain speed on a stock 346xp is far more than on even a ported 390xp. A standard 880 has far more torque than a ported 390, yet there are no higher requirements for both skill set or safety gear for using such machinery. So, there is no basis in increased power being more of a litigation hazard.

Having said this, I would think handing any tool that is beyond the skill set of your operators is not a terribly wise decision. Choose wisely.

Don't run with cizzers

I currently own and operate a Stihl MS241 and a Husky 372XP and I'll be purchasing a Husky 550XP, a 562XP and a Stihl 660 before the end of the Year. I'm thinking of having some of these saws modified, piston porting and muffler mods. What are the advantages and disadvantages of having a saw modified? Also who are the people to contact about getting this kind of work done and what are the costs involved? I live in Ireland, thanks.

I'm down in Tipp at the moment. If you are in NI, it costs nearly the same to ship there to here as it would be to spud. So there's that to think about.

As for the saws you mention:

The 241 responds well to simple timing and muff mods. I very rarely modify the timing on a customer's saw, though. So keep that in mind. I only know one person whom has ported the 241 to date, and he lives in Tennessee and is extremely talented.

The 372 is fairly easy to mod, and responds extremely well to porting and muff mods. The same can be said for the 660. A simple dual port muffler will wake it up, as well.

A muffler mod alone on a 550 and a 562 really wakes those saws up.

BTW, I would like to know where ya got a 562xp in Ireland, if you don't mind my asking. Feel free to PM me if you've any questions.