wyk

If we need to run a 560XP against my 357XP - not a problem, I can only go on what I have achieved and what I have measured. I go by fact rather than lippy retorts:lol:

 

Joshs 346XP sounds a bit good - nice figures:thumbup:

Yer 357's vs my 330EVL then! Bring it! I get a handicap start tho - like bracket racing. And I also get to fuel your saw.

Thems duelling words them.

I was hoping Spud would say sumfin. Even so, I think on even footing, SPuds saw was faster.

Despite that the 560 is still a lot quicker and the 357 does not and can not deliver optimum cutting speed as it does not have auto tune, I have owned both and whilst the 357 was a great saw who ever was in the stand with the 560 would be atleast a row ahead after a few hours ... Martin has another vid where 3 357's two modded go up against my 560 and none are quicker.

I'm not saying that a modded one is not quicker but it had to have some serious mods not just an exhaust and port job.

 

Steve I will give you mikes number if you want a 560 to play against.

 

 

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If a ported 357 can not outcut your 560, then it's not the 357's fault - that's the porter's fault. A competently ported 357 with compression adjustment will crush even a muffler modded 560.

Not quite porting, but certainly tuned. This is my ECHO 330EVL. I went in an cleaned up the intake and exhaust parts to flow better, then utterly gutted the muffler. I then advanced the timing about 40%+ or so of the key. Sounds nice for a 33cc saw, I thought.

The bar is very worn, so oil is flying everywhere. I have a nice new GB bar enroute for carving.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdx5sgRRO2U&feature=youtu.be

One more of the MS361 when she was younger:

Here's my lil 330EVL Echo:

There endeth the first lesson on narrow kerf chain and cut speed:thumbup:

On my Echo 330EVL, though not as fast with the chain as a 200t, I almost can not bog the thing with low pro chain. I often have the 14" bar buried in beech, and she keeps chugging right along even if I push it.

Even if it could run and oil a 24" bar, you'll find the balance is complete shite with one. My ported 361 barely balances with a lightweight 24" bar.

I've said it before, and I'll say it again, there's very little out there in petrol power more simple than a chainsaw. Everyone should invest time becoming familiar with theirs, especially professionals.

In the states, the 365 special has internal transfers, similarly to the 372.

Well a big saw will cut small stuff and big, but not generally the other way around. Then again I live in the PNW in the states so I guess my frame of reference is quite different. Get the 70cc saw and dont look back.

Silly PNW'ers. Whattaya know anyways?

Well, the 630 is a bit heavy compared to many modern 60cc saws, but in it's defense, it is also underpowered. I think a 560 would do well to replace them. But if weight is not an issue, a 365xt/2166 would do the job alright. I assume that's what yer man wants to set you up with.

I use rapeseed to good effect. It's not as thin as other veggie oil, and not quite as thick as the bio stuff. I actually think the tackifier they use in bio oil(which is up to 98% rapeseed) causes more issues than it solves. Regular rapeseed works fine for me.

A pack of dry wall screws are about £35 less...I'm sure you already have needle nose pliers.

Oh no, I need four of them now - thats £40:sneaky2: I need to put my prices up:001_rolleyes:

 

Have you got a nice holder for yours Barrie - a nice oiled piece of timber with four holes in it or a more utilitarian type - a steel bracket on the wall:001_rolleyes:

 

To add to your bad smells - the smell of a fuel tank where the fuel line has been rotted by old fuel - that smells bad.

 

Had an egg once in my kitchen, strange smell - notied it was sweating on the outside:confused1: smashed it outside and had to go back three times to smell it as it smelt that bad:001_tongue:

I got this in about a month ago to use for finishing work on some furniture I have been making. I was growing tired of nearly killing myself using a ported MS361 for the smaller stuff. She cleaned up easily, and shows very low miles. I followed a thread in AS that complained about his not having much compression. So I was quite impressed when I first tried to pull her over and she was fighting me back. I put the gauges to her and she pulled 195 and 202 psi on the Mercury outboard and the Proto gauge. Since I only need her for a bit of mid range torque for finishing and some carving, I decided to simply muffler mod her for some better throttle response and not port her.

Very strange baffle design. he bottom of the muffler has a bolted flange. The insides had two baffles, which I removed, and what looked like bolt holes for an additional baffle. A bit louder now, but not disagreeably so. Oddly, the exhaust gasket was very thick plastic with much of it impinging on the port itself. With a rotary tool, I opened the exhaust port at least 8-10% by simply blending the gasket, which was very thick easily reusable.

SHe's in lovely condition:

Does any one know if these clutch cover nuts are stock? They seem godaweful small.

Thought I would add these:

Husqvarna 385xp, ported, 32" Oregon Reduced Weight bar:

McCulloch PM 800 with a simple muff mod, 32" bar:

It will be around 13600 RPM as that is what the blue coil is limited to (I think that is what you have) but you will never hold that in the cut so it will not effect cut speed.

 

The unlimited coil makes tach tuning easier but doesn't make the saw faster or more powerful!

In fact, the blue coil has a more aggressive timing advance.

Little bit of judicious baffle removal also . There is a supposed optimum outlet area increase expressed as a percentage but can't remember what it is just now but about what you see on my 390 there . You could start by just removing the spark screen if you have one ....

The 'optimum size' has more to do with noise in regards to gain. In most chainsaws, you can make huge holes in the muffler and still see gains. However, huge holes often mean huge noise. So when they usually talk size, it's more about balance than ultimate gains.

A muffler mod and that 346 should pull an 18" 325 in spruce without much trouble. I used a 20" narrow kerf bar on my 50cc Echo in cedar all day long, and it saved my back.

I have seen 346xps in stock in Ireland as recently as a month ago. I think Millers has them as well as the place in Carlow.

The easiest petrol powered machine you could possibly work on is a chainsaw. There's no need to approach it with any trepidation. There are few parts, and they mostly can only go in a certain way. There are loads of videos on line that show how to make repairs on your saw. Even though I have worked on them for years, I occasionally check a few to see if there are any tricks I can use when I head into a unfamiliar saw. Once you get a saw apart for the first time, you'll realize how easy it is, and any work in the future will be a relative cakewalk.

It is very worth it. It's nearly impervious to insects unfinished. Smells gorgeous when used unfinished for interior work like ceilings, cabinetry/closets, shelving, drawers, doors, etc. I know some folks that have homes in the Pacific NorthWest of the US half built of that stuff.

If it makes occasional users have less accidents, meaning less legislation for me, its a good thing IMO, horses for courses.

You hire occasional users instead of professionals?

Been having a tinkering day today, and I've fitted a spare 16" bar onto my 660! I may have taken the rakers down a little more than you're supposed to...!

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Make sure you're gonna use PPE if you plan to use it on that trampoline.

Here's my ported 2177 running rakers at about .055 on an 18" bar in seasoned maple.

He said petrol you said fuel

 

The rules for petrol and diesel storage are different

It was a poke at English health and safety.

Aspen 2 stroke. UK Retail Price is £18.98 inc vat for a 5 litre can Josh.

Wuhat?!