Matthew Storrs

Just get a normal log splitter to run of your digger, I used to have a little 10ton one running off mine and I've never seen the ram move so fast!

Vector and Bryce are almost identical in some aspect, I'm sure someone said that he basically used to sell yellow vectors until 2008 when he started making them himself- is this true? He no doubt has thought up some ingenious additions regardless. Who ever thought up the rock spike system first should be knighted. I know I wouldn't be able to do a lot of my fencing with a side mounted post driver. The swing round system is great for backing in between trees/rocks over ditches etc to get that awkward strainer. But a 100kg weight simply isn't heavy enough like the old parmiters used to have and as for manual mast positioning- I almost think I'd prefer to do the small stakes by hand if I had to use an old parmiter!

Yes you are correct- I confused myself for a moment there!

How much force is being exerted on point A. Is it still 1 ton? Or 2? If your trying to winch a vehicle (point A) out I'm sure you get twice as much pull on the vehicle if you add a pulley into the system so the rope doubles back on itself....

Surely, because A is fixed then its force is not entirely taken by the pulley, if a ton was hanging on either side of the pulley then the force on the pulley would be 2 ton, but in this case I would say the force on the pulley would only be 1 ton as the rope is fixed on p the base of the tree on other other side.

I think 30 days is too long after completion, 2 weeks is more reasonable for both parties. Also if I've spent a month doing one job (which I regularly do) then I will have eaten into my float quite a bit without regular payments you get with small jobs. If I order materials and get an invoice it gets paid within 48hrs, I would consider it pretty rude if a domestic customer held onto my money for 30 days after the job has been finished. The trouble with commercial organisations is the amount of faffing around that has to go on before the invoice a actually goes through the system.

This is all well and good in summer rain but icy rain is no fun, particularly if its not a particularly hard paced job. I'm same as you Mark, once your in a cacoon in your waterproofs the rain isn't too bad, but I hate gear getting wet and muddy

Well, changed it this afternoon, seemed to come out as normal, still glad I've changed it for piece of mind, Sorry TCD it was 15/40 not 30 I was using. I was always told no need to run semi synthetic in a basic engine like the 300, so iv'e always just used good quality mineral oil changed every 4000, no probs so far. Cheers for everyone's input- glad I'm not the only one to have done it by the sounds of it.

I think the rain is starting to seep into my brain-making me do silly things:001_rolleyes:

or at least old chainsaw oil in this case!

Probably put in a liter- topped it up from low to high mark. Its the 300tdi, what would you reccomend?

A few weeks ago i needed the 25 liter drum that holds my chain oil. So I poured the chain oil into an old landrover engine oil carton I had. A few days ago I topped up the landrover with yep you guessed it, the chain oil I had put into old carton thinking it was spare landrover oil- Complete plonker, I only made the connection after a few days of driving:laugh1:. Better do an oil change, but how similar is standard chain oil compared to mineral 15/30? I understand they add something to give it the tackiness to stay on bars.

Yes you can fit a PTO on one, chap who brought my chipper of me the other day came in his 140. It had PTO on rear but no linkage, linkage on front but no PTO.

BBC News - UK storms destroy railway line and leave thousands without power Feel bad for the folk living in those houses. Used to walk long this particular stretch of sea wall quite a bit back in the summer.

Oh dear, such as? I did get a price off Warwick, but the trailer they should as standard was a bit wider than others, which put me off a bit

Digger will only be in the 3-5 ton category, so nothing too big. The idea being I can use the trailer to move the digger to site and use the trailer as a bit if a dumper, moving stone soil timber etc. So on that basis I'm not not sure id benefit all that much purely from a beaver tail I realise Fleming are more at the budget end of the spectrum, possibly fine for my use. But I'm only planing to buy one trailer of this kind in my life, so prefer to put a bit of money into it! I do like the drop side appeal of the Herbst one, makes loading that much easier.

Gotta love a 2wd tractor just for the manouverbility if anything. Steering with weight on the back is best done through the brakes!

Looking for any opinions for the above. I need a trailer for, moving large quantities of fencing materials to site, moving digger, transport soil/timber on site and other general use. So far I looked at the Fleming 8tonner about 5k but would need to get ramps made up. Or the herbst trailer plant/multipurpose which if yet to obtain a price from dealer but believe its nearer 8k. Plant Version Drop Side Trailer | | Lowloaders · Dump Trailers · Dump Loaders · Drop Side Trailers · Bale Trailers · Cattle Trailers | Herbst Machinery Ltd, Tyrone, Northern IrelandLowloaders · Dump Trailers · Dump Loaders · Drop Side Trailer Any other reccomendations considered. Thanks.

This is probably true and I'm not sure what system/design the pro tech p300 has to lift the weight, but the Bryce/vector design probably wears less than the lever arm design that wrag and pro tech usually use. The only trouble I'm having with the swing round knocker I have is that it has a tow hitch for towing a trailer to the job but in order to do so the knocker has to be swung round to the side position and sticks out nearly 2ft beyond the rear tyre- which isn't great for meeting cars in the lanes:laugh1:

I wonder what the oldest strainers still in operation are, I reckon they go on for years. Interesting thread.

Oh, I'd like to see those Hayes pictures, brilliant tools in my opinion. Own several sets, and other 5 years of daily use they have very little wear:thumbup1:

Again, agreed. In my experiance I have got the most satisfactory and even tension from tensioning in the middle. I roll out to the middle and pull two boundary clamps together then join with either crimps or gripples. Same with barb/plain top wires. Personally, I don't like seeing hi tensile netting stapled/hammered home into a strainer to hold the tension, knots look neat and are far stronger I think technique largely comes down to ground conditions and the layout of the fenceline. I fence mainly on Dartmoor and it is common that my fencing has to meander around huge granite boulders/over peat bogs. Not to mention fencing on top of the dreaded Devon banks. So I really don't think I would use a profencer/quickfencer much at all. For this reason I have found digger mounted knockers to be the most versatile being able to reach into dips/hollows, track over soft ground, and reach over walls top of banks etc. I converted one to fit my digger exactly how I wanted it, On the other hand is the lowland/arable fencing which I'm rarely lucky enough to come across. Speed is of prime importance here given high work rates and larger competition. So I can totally see big side mounted knockers and wire unrollers being essential. I like hearing about different setups, I spent quite a lot of money back in the summer on my wrag tractor mounted one, but to be honest I'm thinking about selling it with the tractor. Just doesn't seem to be the right machine for my work on the whole, (not the knocker, the tractor) usually too steep or wet for a tractor. A tracked one would be much better I think, at least I can control it on steep slopes and if it does go over I'm not on it:laugh1:

That's very bad Harry, sorry your not having much luck. Perhaps start a thread on its own about what to do in this situation, there are some members who are quite clued up about legal matters (Felix the log chopper for example) but may not be looking at this thread. I'm looking for a company to supply a grab for my 3 tonner, I think its a toss up between Hawkfawk or good ole Digbits. Although those RSL grabs seem quite well made....

Totally agree spikey , not often I find I need bigger than 200kg, and as you say combined with the rock spike most things go in pretty quickly. Think a bigger hammer without a rock spike is less effective than a smaller one with. But as Bryce says on his website at least with a big hammer, you don't have to use it full height so less wear on the machine (possibly?). If been knocking 10 inch gateposts into riverbed pretty satisfactorily with the 200kg on the wrag, the rock spike helps them go in straight too. Protech are definiatly good machines. Friend of mine had a tynman/kidd it literally shook itself to bits. It just came apart on one job and that was the end of it.

Good info cheers. I quite like the idea of the forest supreme knockers Bryce do, purely for doing strainers and gate posts. Job I'm on at the moment I used my wrag for all the strainers (about 70 of them) then used my digger mounted knocker for doing all the little stakes. Can do about 600 meters worth of posts on my own in a day in this fashion. Without turning this into a willy comparing competition I'd be interested to know how many stakes you can achieve per hour with the Bryce? I do about 30 an hour with my tractor, 50 with my digger knocker. Average going. Considerably less if its a real awkward fence line. Yes sorry OP, totally derailed your thread, I always get over excited with anything to do with fencing tackle!